I have a 98 gen 2 intrepid 2.7L. When the car is off the parking lights won't go off. I have to unhook the battery post to prevent battery drainage. I have tried taking out the fuse for the DRL and they still didn't go off. Any suggestions? Also there is a bit of a "knock" on what I guess is the top of the engine. What could that be and how much does it cost to fix? Please help ASAP.

 

Which fuse are you removing (location & number please)? If the correct one, it sounds like a shorted wire to another power source. This can be hard to find unless you are proficient at troubleshooting electrical circuits. If not, you may still get lucky though... look for chaffed wires. Also did the problems occurrence begin or coincide with any maintenance? That may give you an idea where to look.

As for the knock, it could be very bad (on the 2.7). It may be a sign that the engine is fouled with sludge and about to blow. I'd get the oil flushed, changed and the sound diagnosed ASAP. It may cost from $100 to a few thousand, depending on the damage to the engine. Was the oil changed regulary?

Kurt

PS See this lnk to the op of this fourm for iedas https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...e-problem.html

 

not really sure about the oil changes, I just got the car. If it is the engine, would you say its more of a top end issue?
as for the fuses, took out #7 for the park lamps #15 for the DRL
no luck on either, or with both out at the same time. also, not sure if I previously mentioned, but the headlights stopped coming on (at all)

Thank you very much for your help, this can get very frustrating really fast

 

1st, as for the sludge issue, no…if the oil change was not done on schedule, the plugged ports (from my understanding) may also be in the block. You need a flush & repair. Also see the link I sent…one individual goes as far as a pan gasket as routine maintenance. I have the 3.5 and therefore d/n have this issue, I am only trying to make you aware of the potential problem.

As for the light issue, 7 should shut it off even if it were a BCM issue. That being said, it sounds like a shorted system. See what happens when fuse 11 is pulled. Also you mentioned headlights, do the headlights are inop, how about the high beam and flash to pass? If fuse 11 has no effect, try removing fuses one at a time until the lamps go out. Let me know which has an effect.

 

ok I took out # 11 and nothing happened. Then I went down the line removing/replacing fuses with no change. When I got to # 7 ironically all the lights went off. (remember I'd already tried removing #7 with no result). Then the signal lights wouldn't work but the hazard lights did. Not sure what I touched but then the signal lights started working. So I'm guessing its an electrical problem, so where would you suggest I start to look. Also the headlights are still not coming on, but the high beams do work. And the powerlocks aren't working, but I took it for a ride around the block and when I stopped at the stop sign I heard them click but did not lock.

 

My knee jerk rxn says the BCM, as it controls all these circuits and it the common denominator. Did all this start at the same time? Do you have an engine light or any gauge indication (or problem), or the words "no bus"?

There is a common fuse to the door locks and low beams. It controls the relays. It's in the PDC, fuse D (40A). This however would not cause the parking light to stay on... once again, sounds like the BCM.

You could check this power at each point, all the way to the headlights because it may be a coincidence and you just have a few bugs in different systems. It goes into the junction block on plug 9 pin 2, then feeds the low beam relay, along with the door lock relays. The feed for the headlight (in the socket) is pin 61. The ground signal to activate the relay from the BCM, is pin 60. When the relay is activated, power flows from pin 62 to pin 63 (in the socket still). This feeds fuse 10, 11, & 12 (right lamp, high beam feed, and left lamp respectively). You could try to jump from 62-63, BUT the draw is 15 A on each (so just with low beams that’s 30A). You would need some heavy duty jumper or it would burn. Best to just check the circuits with a MM.

One last thought. If the BCM’s grounding is poor, you may get flakey problems, but I’d expect more wide spread malfunctions. However it is still worth a shot. Inspect and clean all grounds. Pay close attn to ground 200 & 201, they are located in the cab, passenger side, on the center console bottom edge (near the airbag control module…so be careful. You should disconnect the bat for 15 min prior to any work with or near airbag components).

Let me know,
Kurt

 

I'll try that but I also got an error code p1391

Loss of the Cam Position Sensor or Crank Position

sensor has occurred. For PL 2.0L. I have no idea what that is.
Also, now the a/c is only working on acc but not when I turn the engine on. I'm thinking
maybe its an electrical short somewhere or is this a result of the problem you just explained?

 

The AC is controlled by the BCM (via the ATC (automatic temp control)), so there could be a connection to the BCM again...like I said, check the grounds.

As for the Crank/Cam sensor, that's tied to the PCM. I'd treat that as non-related, although I must admit, I don't know what the PL 2.0L refers to. It may be a bogus code (assuming the 2.0 denotes an engine size).

Kurt

 

I took it to an electrical mechanic, he says I have a bad high/low beam/ windshield wiper switch/arm. He says repalce that then he can tell me what's wrong with the a/c. Does that sound like the same problem?

 

no, there is no tie to parking lights (altought fuse 7 does provide power for the highbeam realy via the swithch for the "flash to pass" function (not after a full click for highbeams...that power comes from fuse 11)), ac, or door locks...but give it a shot if you want. Good luck,

Kurt