Question on a Driveline Swap
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2009
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Question on a Driveline Swap
Hello all,
I've found a bunch of good information here, but I was wondering if anyone had any information on doing a driveline swap.
CURRENT SITUATION:
I've got a 2000 Intrepid with a 2.7 in her. The engines a little wonky and I'd like to swap it. I also have a 2001 Intrepid with a 3.2 (so easy wiring hookup, etc). It was lightly rolled, but the engine and transmission are fine.
I'd like to perform a swap, but rather than just an engine swap I'd also like to do the transmission. I think the hookups would be easier.
QUESTIONS
1. Would swapping both be easier than swapping both individually? Keep in mind I have no problems cutting the 2001 Intrepid up. The acetylene torch is just itching to go. Or is just swapping the engine the easiest option?
2. Has anyone here ever done this? Experiences or links would be appreciated.
3. Are there any "tricks" to make the swap go easier/faster? All would be great.
I've got a full "farm" shop so tools, elbow-grease, and plenty of cuss words are ready to go
I've got the following links, but they seem to be engine swap only:
http://www.*********.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45070
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...2105438AAgIC5m
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-d...rums/f-31.html
http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic241400.htm
http://www.oilsludge.com/
http://lxforums.com/board/index.php
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-d...rums/f-92.html
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.ph...0500&p=2773793
http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/t39677/
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Can_you_sw...gine_for_a_3.5
http://www.*********.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151694
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...7132331AA0k57T
http://www.mail-archive.com/dodge_in.../msg00867.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...8239&viewitem=
Any and all input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I've found a bunch of good information here, but I was wondering if anyone had any information on doing a driveline swap.
CURRENT SITUATION:
I've got a 2000 Intrepid with a 2.7 in her. The engines a little wonky and I'd like to swap it. I also have a 2001 Intrepid with a 3.2 (so easy wiring hookup, etc). It was lightly rolled, but the engine and transmission are fine.
I'd like to perform a swap, but rather than just an engine swap I'd also like to do the transmission. I think the hookups would be easier.
QUESTIONS
1. Would swapping both be easier than swapping both individually? Keep in mind I have no problems cutting the 2001 Intrepid up. The acetylene torch is just itching to go. Or is just swapping the engine the easiest option?
2. Has anyone here ever done this? Experiences or links would be appreciated.
3. Are there any "tricks" to make the swap go easier/faster? All would be great.
I've got a full "farm" shop so tools, elbow-grease, and plenty of cuss words are ready to go
I've got the following links, but they seem to be engine swap only:
http://www.*********.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45070
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...2105438AAgIC5m
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-d...rums/f-31.html
http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic241400.htm
http://www.oilsludge.com/
http://lxforums.com/board/index.php
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-d...rums/f-92.html
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.ph...0500&p=2773793
http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/t39677/
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Can_you_sw...gine_for_a_3.5
http://www.*********.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151694
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...7132331AA0k57T
http://www.mail-archive.com/dodge_in.../msg00867.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...8239&viewitem=
Any and all input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
I removed the 2.7 engine out of my wife’s totaled 03 Concorde (Also in a roll over) and installed it into my Intrepid. I just did the engine because the CV joints were trashed in the roll over.
Remove the front bumper cover and brackets then the radiator (You will need to remove the ac HIGH PRESURE lines from the AC condenser ** be careful they are pressurized**! You can buy the recharge kit from the local auto parts store). You’re going to make a mess because of the power steering and trans fluid that will drain out. Remove the hood and the pieces that cover the windshield wiper housing, this will allow you a lot more room to work on the back side of the engine. All the connectors are almost unique so start unplugging. I would buy some plastic baggies and label the nuts and bolts location including small items. I didn’t and boy what a pain. Once you get the wires disconnected start unbolting the engine from the trans and motor mounts. With the front unobstructed you can lift the engine a little and work it loose from the trans. Oh you will need a special tool (so they say) that bolts to the front and rear of the engine. This is so the chain doesn’t crack your valve covers when you are lifting the engine. I went to Lowes and bought a 3 foot piece of their largest angle iron and
Drilled two holes at the center of the angle iron
Bolted a small 12in chain (Looped the chain to it so it would hang from my lift)
I took another chain and let it hang through the top of the angle iron and it worked great (A pipe would work also). Hope this helps.
Remove the front bumper cover and brackets then the radiator (You will need to remove the ac HIGH PRESURE lines from the AC condenser ** be careful they are pressurized**! You can buy the recharge kit from the local auto parts store). You’re going to make a mess because of the power steering and trans fluid that will drain out. Remove the hood and the pieces that cover the windshield wiper housing, this will allow you a lot more room to work on the back side of the engine. All the connectors are almost unique so start unplugging. I would buy some plastic baggies and label the nuts and bolts location including small items. I didn’t and boy what a pain. Once you get the wires disconnected start unbolting the engine from the trans and motor mounts. With the front unobstructed you can lift the engine a little and work it loose from the trans. Oh you will need a special tool (so they say) that bolts to the front and rear of the engine. This is so the chain doesn’t crack your valve covers when you are lifting the engine. I went to Lowes and bought a 3 foot piece of their largest angle iron and
Drilled two holes at the center of the angle iron
Bolted a small 12in chain (Looped the chain to it so it would hang from my lift)
I took another chain and let it hang through the top of the angle iron and it worked great (A pipe would work also). Hope this helps.
Rookie
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
If you just take the fan assembly off the rad you can get the engine out without discharging the ac. Put a piece of plywood between the engine and rad so you don't puncture it. I don't but if it's your 1st time it's probably a good idea.
Captain
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 734
Likes: 0
From: Menomonie, WI
I removed the 2.7 engine out of my wife’s totaled 03 Concorde (Also in a roll over) and installed it into my Intrepid. I just did the engine because the CV joints were trashed in the roll over.
Remove the front bumper cover and brackets then the radiator (You will need to remove the ac HIGH PRESURE lines from the AC condenser ** be careful they are pressurized**! You can buy the recharge kit from the local auto parts store). You’re going to make a mess because of the power steering and trans fluid that will drain out. Remove the hood and the pieces that cover the windshield wiper housing, this will allow you a lot more room to work on the back side of the engine. All the connectors are almost unique so start unplugging. I would buy some plastic baggies and label the nuts and bolts location including small items. I didn’t and boy what a pain. Once you get the wires disconnected start unbolting the engine from the trans and motor mounts. With the front unobstructed you can lift the engine a little and work it loose from the trans. Oh you will need a special tool (so they say) that bolts to the front and rear of the engine. This is so the chain doesn’t crack your valve covers when you are lifting the engine. I went to Lowes and bought a 3 foot piece of their largest angle iron and
Drilled two holes at the center of the angle iron
Bolted a small 12in chain (Looped the chain to it so it would hang from my lift)
I took another chain and let it hang through the top of the angle iron and it worked great (A pipe would work also). Hope this helps.
Remove the front bumper cover and brackets then the radiator (You will need to remove the ac HIGH PRESURE lines from the AC condenser ** be careful they are pressurized**! You can buy the recharge kit from the local auto parts store). You’re going to make a mess because of the power steering and trans fluid that will drain out. Remove the hood and the pieces that cover the windshield wiper housing, this will allow you a lot more room to work on the back side of the engine. All the connectors are almost unique so start unplugging. I would buy some plastic baggies and label the nuts and bolts location including small items. I didn’t and boy what a pain. Once you get the wires disconnected start unbolting the engine from the trans and motor mounts. With the front unobstructed you can lift the engine a little and work it loose from the trans. Oh you will need a special tool (so they say) that bolts to the front and rear of the engine. This is so the chain doesn’t crack your valve covers when you are lifting the engine. I went to Lowes and bought a 3 foot piece of their largest angle iron and
Drilled two holes at the center of the angle iron
Bolted a small 12in chain (Looped the chain to it so it would hang from my lift)
I took another chain and let it hang through the top of the angle iron and it worked great (A pipe would work also). Hope this helps.
actually in most states you can't buy a recharge kit for the ac its illegal and 2nd releasing the pressure from the ac line into the atmosphere is also illegal... you need to take it to a licensed shop to discharge the system before removing the lines... then once your done and have the motor installed you can buy a recharge kit (if its legal in your state) or take it back to the shop and have it recharged
Captain
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 734
Likes: 0
From: Menomonie, WI
you should be able to get the whole engine and tran assembly out of the old car very easy and should be able to get it into the new car...just going to have to disassemble the front end of the recieving car which you will probably have that apart to get the old engine but anyway seen as you have 2 complete cars with both engines it should be really easy to do the swap...
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: Minivan down by the creek
I've done sooooo many powertrain repairs in both gen intrepids, I have nightmares.
I drop the whole assembly (motor/trans, cradle), out the bottom then just put in the whole other assembly from the parts car. As for the a/c, I just unbolt the compressor and leave it in the vehicle. Then there's no A/C issues. I don't even remove the radiator, just the fans.
I actually found on swapping 3.5's it was faster to drop out the whole thing then swap the motor with the cradle on the floor than trying to do it in the car. (however I have a hoist and a forklift in my shop so there's a slight advantage)
As for the tranny's, they are the same between all the engines. and I have even installed a gen2 2.7 trans into a gen1 3.3 and everything worked except I had to change the connector on the shifter sensor
I drop the whole assembly (motor/trans, cradle), out the bottom then just put in the whole other assembly from the parts car. As for the a/c, I just unbolt the compressor and leave it in the vehicle. Then there's no A/C issues. I don't even remove the radiator, just the fans.
I actually found on swapping 3.5's it was faster to drop out the whole thing then swap the motor with the cradle on the floor than trying to do it in the car. (however I have a hoist and a forklift in my shop so there's a slight advantage)
As for the tranny's, they are the same between all the engines. and I have even installed a gen2 2.7 trans into a gen1 3.3 and everything worked except I had to change the connector on the shifter sensor
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Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
actually in most states you can't buy a recharge kit for the ac its illegal and 2nd releasing the pressure from the ac line into the atmosphere is also illegal... you need to take it to a licensed shop to discharge the system before removing the lines... then once your done and have the motor installed you can buy a recharge kit (if its legal in your state) or take it back to the shop and have it recharged
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: Minivan down by the creek
before I evolved into having the correct tools and equipment... I did this job the same way by using a cherry picker. I'd connect the drive train to the hook, remove the 4 cradle bolt (and obviously everything else necessary) and drop the package on to some dollys I made to clear the legs for the cherry picker, then I used the cherry picker to jack the car up high enough to roll the whole thing out.
And for a little FYI, the exhaust is a PITA if you try to remove per OEM proceedures. I take a short cut by cutting the pipe after the last Cat. when I re-assemble the car, I use a stainless band clamp ($10 at NAPA). I did this on my parents concorde when I rebuilt their transmission... 8 years ago and 120,000+ miles and still fine no leaks or any problems what so ever.
And thanks for the support. I HATE people that lip off but yet have ZERO imput of value.
And for a little FYI, the exhaust is a PITA if you try to remove per OEM proceedures. I take a short cut by cutting the pipe after the last Cat. when I re-assemble the car, I use a stainless band clamp ($10 at NAPA). I did this on my parents concorde when I rebuilt their transmission... 8 years ago and 120,000+ miles and still fine no leaks or any problems what so ever.
And thanks for the support. I HATE people that lip off but yet have ZERO imput of value.
