How to check Engine Lockup
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Alabama
How to check Engine Lockup
Hi all! I would appreciate any help and advice solving my problem. Dealer service department says I have a locked-up engine. I want to check myself before deciding what to do next. Car is a 2001 Dodge Intrepid (2.7L) with 114K miles. My daughter was driving the car thru mall parking lot, went over speed bump, then car shut off. I asked about speed and she said normal, appropriate speed over bump. After clearing speed bump, she lost power steering and brakes, but did not hear any mechanical banging or grinding. Car would not restart. I drove down and tried to jump it, but could not get it to turn over. Dodge dealer said tried to electrically and mechanically get the engine to turn over, but that it was locked up. How can I check it myself? Is there anything else I should check? BTW, a couple of months prior to this incident, she was experiencing some intermittent electrical problems. For example, the windows, A/C, turn signals would not work, but, then after driving a couple of miles, everything would work again.
Welcome to the DF
First thing i would do is remove the fan belt or belts, and try turnning over the engine by hand. Sometimes the a fan belt will cause the engine to feel like its locked up.
First thing i would do is remove the fan belt or belts, and try turnning over the engine by hand. Sometimes the a fan belt will cause the engine to feel like its locked up.
Professional
Joined: Jan 2008
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Your problem
I know you mentioned that the battery was checked. But was it checked completely.
I know this is long, but it is necessary.
Battery inspection:
1. Battery date and code - age of the battery
2. Condition of battery case - check for dirt, grease, electrolyte condensation. Any of these contaminants can create an electrical path between the terminals and cause the battery to drain.
3. Check the electrolyte level, color, and odor if it is a maintenance battery.
4. Condition of battery cables and terminals
5. Battery abuse.
6. The battery tray and holddown fixture - Check for proper tightness. Check for any acid corrosion of the tray.
7. If the battery has a built-in hydromter, check its color indicator - green dot (good), black dot (it has a less stated charge), and yellow (bad)
Next perform a Battery Capacitance Test:
Battery Termal Voltage Drop Test - The condition of the terminal connection. Disable the ignition system by removing the plug wires or ignition sys fuse, PCM fuse, or fuel pump fuse. Use a digital multimeter, set to DC volts. Connect the neg lead to the cable clamp and pos to terminal. Crank the engine and observe the reading. If over 0.5 volts, there is a high resistance at the cable connection. Use a terminal puller to remove the cabel, clean and replace. Check again.
Open Circuit Votage Test - To obtain accurate test result, the battery must be stabilized. If the batter has just been recharged, perform a capacity test, then wait 10 minutes to allow boltage to stabilize. Connect votmeter across the battery terminals, observe polarity. Consider a battery at a temperature of 80 degree F, in good condition, should show at least 12.45 volts. If the state of charge is 75 percent or more, the battery is considered charged.
Battery Case Test - A dirty battery can allow voltage to leak across the top of the battery and cause discharging. Place the pos lead of voltmeter to the post and neg lead at spot across the top of the battery. Repeat the test on the other post. Any reading above .5 volt indicates that the battery is dirty ad allowing discharging. Clean the top of the battery.
Capacity Test - for this test to be accurate, the battery must pass the state of charge or open ciircuit voltage test. If it doesn't, recharge the battery and test again. Do not perform this test unless the battery is at least 75 percent charged. A specified load is placed on the battery while the termianl voltage is observed. A good battery should produce current equal to 50 percent of its cold-cranking rating for 15 seconds and still provide 9.6 volts to start the engine with the battery tempurature at 70 degree f. If the battery fails the capacity test, replace it.
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Your car may be experiencing a Hydrostatic lock, which is the result of attempting to compress a liquid in the cylinder. Since liquid is not compressible, the piston is not able to travel in the cylinder.
Do a stater quick test:
1. Set the gear in neutral, set parking brake.
2. Turn on headlights.
3. Turn ignintion to START position while observing headlights. They will either go out, dim, or remain at the same brightness.
If they go out, the likely cause is a poor connection at the terminals.
If they go dim, the battery may be discharged.
Note: if the engine rotates when turning it with a socket wrench on the pully nut, the starter motor may have internal damage.
If the headlights say brightly lit, listen for a deep clicking noise. The solenoid may be faulty. There are certain test that can be performed on the solenoid.
Check the starting system completely via service manual.
If all is good, test the lubrication system for pressure by using a oil pressure gauge.
Low oil pressure could cause the bearings to become worn, resulting in the lock-up; however, there may be a knock heard at times.
I hope this helps
I know this is long, but it is necessary.
Battery inspection:
1. Battery date and code - age of the battery
2. Condition of battery case - check for dirt, grease, electrolyte condensation. Any of these contaminants can create an electrical path between the terminals and cause the battery to drain.
3. Check the electrolyte level, color, and odor if it is a maintenance battery.
4. Condition of battery cables and terminals
5. Battery abuse.
6. The battery tray and holddown fixture - Check for proper tightness. Check for any acid corrosion of the tray.
7. If the battery has a built-in hydromter, check its color indicator - green dot (good), black dot (it has a less stated charge), and yellow (bad)
Next perform a Battery Capacitance Test:
Battery Termal Voltage Drop Test - The condition of the terminal connection. Disable the ignition system by removing the plug wires or ignition sys fuse, PCM fuse, or fuel pump fuse. Use a digital multimeter, set to DC volts. Connect the neg lead to the cable clamp and pos to terminal. Crank the engine and observe the reading. If over 0.5 volts, there is a high resistance at the cable connection. Use a terminal puller to remove the cabel, clean and replace. Check again.
Open Circuit Votage Test - To obtain accurate test result, the battery must be stabilized. If the batter has just been recharged, perform a capacity test, then wait 10 minutes to allow boltage to stabilize. Connect votmeter across the battery terminals, observe polarity. Consider a battery at a temperature of 80 degree F, in good condition, should show at least 12.45 volts. If the state of charge is 75 percent or more, the battery is considered charged.
Battery Case Test - A dirty battery can allow voltage to leak across the top of the battery and cause discharging. Place the pos lead of voltmeter to the post and neg lead at spot across the top of the battery. Repeat the test on the other post. Any reading above .5 volt indicates that the battery is dirty ad allowing discharging. Clean the top of the battery.
Capacity Test - for this test to be accurate, the battery must pass the state of charge or open ciircuit voltage test. If it doesn't, recharge the battery and test again. Do not perform this test unless the battery is at least 75 percent charged. A specified load is placed on the battery while the termianl voltage is observed. A good battery should produce current equal to 50 percent of its cold-cranking rating for 15 seconds and still provide 9.6 volts to start the engine with the battery tempurature at 70 degree f. If the battery fails the capacity test, replace it.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your car may be experiencing a Hydrostatic lock, which is the result of attempting to compress a liquid in the cylinder. Since liquid is not compressible, the piston is not able to travel in the cylinder.
Do a stater quick test:
1. Set the gear in neutral, set parking brake.
2. Turn on headlights.
3. Turn ignintion to START position while observing headlights. They will either go out, dim, or remain at the same brightness.
If they go out, the likely cause is a poor connection at the terminals.
If they go dim, the battery may be discharged.
Note: if the engine rotates when turning it with a socket wrench on the pully nut, the starter motor may have internal damage.
If the headlights say brightly lit, listen for a deep clicking noise. The solenoid may be faulty. There are certain test that can be performed on the solenoid.
Check the starting system completely via service manual.
If all is good, test the lubrication system for pressure by using a oil pressure gauge.
Low oil pressure could cause the bearings to become worn, resulting in the lock-up; however, there may be a knock heard at times.
I hope this helps
Last edited by deezozdodge; Jan 10, 2010 at 11:20 AM.
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Registered User
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From: Alabama
Need input after trying a couple of things
All - Thanks for the feedback. I haven't tried everything above yet. This morning, 3 weeks since the failure, I tried to start the vehicle again. I did not recharge the battery, but I had my truck connected via jumper cables. Anyway, it seemed to sound like it wanted to turn over more than it did 3 weeks ago, but no success. I had my wife turn the key and noticed that the 2 belts do turn when the car is trying to start. The oil level is halfway between min and max. Last oil change was 3500 miles ago in Aug. I finally tried to turn the engine over myself by attaching a socket to the crankshaft bolt and turning clockwise. I was using a 18" breaker bar. I tried with the car in park and no key, then with key turned halfway and car in neutral. No success turning the crankshaft at all. I pulled pretty hard, but I don't know what the right amount of pull should be. Any other ideas based on this input?
Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
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i'll say it again. your engine is JUNK!!!!!!!! if you cant turn it over with a breaker bar, it's locked up JUNK!!!! on a good engine, I can turn it over with a 3/8" drive ratchet. so that should give you an idea how much the right amount of pull should be There might be s SLIM chance the a/c or alt locked up but I doubt that. given the conditions when it died.
Last edited by 92dak5.24x4; Jan 16, 2010 at 06:53 PM.