she was running a 1968 dodge dart engine in it lol no ecu require
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb_2K1i4qSM

 

I mean not bad like our yr neons the older ecus are sweet and not as pickey as 03 to 05 yrs thats what I meant . I was making a joke comeon.

 

not cool lol but yea i have the tokico drop and its awesome, i would reccomend it to anyone. the 1st gen computers are awesome because you can take a 2.4 block, put new internals in it, put a turbo on it, and no matter how much boost you run, the computer will adjust fuel accordingly

 

Thank you mickey yeah the 1st gen neons are so cool for turbos there are tons of 1st gen neons that have the srt turbo swap than 2nd gen neons just for that reason.

 

mikey not mickey dammit lol

 

Well sorry Ill just call you mickor mikethan.

 

The correct answer is YES, this chip can give you a few extra horsepower on the 2nd-gen ECU, but not constantly. The chip you see in the photo is actually just a $0.49 half-watt resistor from Radioshack, shoved into the end of the IAT sensor cable. Here's how you can make it work in a 2nd-Gen without screwing with your ECU too bad:

At Radioshack:

4.7K-Ohm, 1/2-watt resistor-$0.49.
Three-position toggle or rocker-switch - $3
Wire - $5
Electrical tape - $1.75
10 minutes of your time - Priceless

It takes time for the 2nd-gen ECU's to learn what kind of voltage changes have occurred in the IAT sensor, so the point of all of this is to "trick" the ECU for, let's say, 2 miles out of every70 normal miles driven. In other words, something you can toggle on and off.

Cut one of the two wires in your IAT sensor cable. It doesn't matter which. Take two long sections of wire andhookinto bothsectionsof the cutwire and tape them up,and runthe new wiresback inside of the car. Put the wire running from the IAT sensor into the common end of the toggle switch (the "power" terminal). Run the other wire (the wire that would have ran to your ECU) into one of the other tabs of the toggle switch (one of the tabs that you will toggle to). We'll call that tab "Normal."

Now take your 4.7k-ohm resistor, and hook it to the third/other/last tab... (the other end of the switch that you will toggle to).Also hook theother end of theresistor up to the "Normal" tab,where you connected the last wire to.

What's the point of all of this? The point is, you drive around normally with your toggle switch on "normal" and your ECU will get the normal factory voltage readings from your IAT. Only every once in a while, (like a spontaneous 1/4-mile jaunt) do you flip your toggle switch to the opposite position, which will force the voltage from the IAT to pass through the resistor and make your ECU dump more fuel and slightly advance your timing a bit.

Do not drive around with the switch always on... leave it on "Normal" most of the time. If you leave the switch "on" for a really long time (over 80miles), your ECU will eventually learn the new voltage curve from the resistor and your car will perform like it did from the factory.

This mod adds no more than 5 hp or so... and like I said, use it 5% or less of the time when you drive (only when you really need to step on it) in order to keep your ECU conditioned and not learn from it. And don't go with any higher resistance than a 4.7k-ohm resistor. A 5.6k-ohm or even a 10k-ohm might work, but I would consider running no lower than 89 octane at that point just to avoid pre-detonation under a "mishap." In other words, don't screw with it too much and damage your engine.

'Nuff said.[sm=trust_me.gif]

 

nice write up bro never knew you can 5 hp outa that!?
i was just messing around mikey..

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpOXEk1uWeY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKO6kA80SEI

 

nice lookin car