Bad Vibrations (when braking)
#12
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ORIGINAL: 03neonRT
I have the Ebay cross-drilled and slotted rotors with 35k on them with no uneven wear or cracking. I'm about to replace them with some new ones since I do my pads and rotors at the same time
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ORIGINAL: Adionik
anyways i was gonna get those slotted rotors on ebay but a lot on 2gn say they wear unevenly and crack. The power 2's at modern are supposed to be pretty good. BUT they're 89 each.
anyways i was gonna get those slotted rotors on ebay but a lot on 2gn say they wear unevenly and crack. The power 2's at modern are supposed to be pretty good. BUT they're 89 each.
![Wink](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Which of these two looks like a better rotor?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...40470785QQrdZ1
OR
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...link:middle:us
thanks. ;D
#13
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ORIGINAL: yellowO3r/t
i could also be something as simple as your tires need rotated and balanced. that has been an issue for me in the past
i could also be something as simple as your tires need rotated and balanced. that has been an issue for me in the past
ORIGINAL: Adionik
Which of these two looks like a better rotor?
Which of these two looks like a better rotor?
#14
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How difficult is it to replace the hub bearings? It's been years since I've done that and even then it was on a rear wheel drive. If it's not too hard I might just do it when I replace the rotors and pads. What would cause the bearings to be shot after only 28K miles?
I'm thinking of going with the standard Autozone rotors just to see if that fixes the problem before I blow a wad on some higher priced rotors.
I'm thinking of going with the standard Autozone rotors just to see if that fixes the problem before I blow a wad on some higher priced rotors.
#15
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ORIGINAL: masterofdisaster127
How difficult is it to replace the hub bearings? It's been years since I've done that and even then it was on a rear wheel drive. If it's not too hard I might just do it when I replace the rotors and pads. What would cause the bearings to be shot after only 28K miles?
I'm thinking of going with the standard Autozone rotors just to see if that fixes the problem before I blow a wad on some higher priced rotors.
How difficult is it to replace the hub bearings? It's been years since I've done that and even then it was on a rear wheel drive. If it's not too hard I might just do it when I replace the rotors and pads. What would cause the bearings to be shot after only 28K miles?
I'm thinking of going with the standard Autozone rotors just to see if that fixes the problem before I blow a wad on some higher priced rotors.
#16
![Default](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: Adionik
What're you going to go with? The ebay rotors are pretty nicely priced, but the shipping for me absolutely kills it.
Which of these two looks like a better rotor?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...40470785QQrdZ1
OR
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...link:middle:us
thanks. ;D
ORIGINAL: 03neonRT
I have the Ebay cross-drilled and slotted rotors with 35k on them with no uneven wear or cracking. I'm about to replace them with some new ones since I do my pads and rotors at the same time
.
ORIGINAL: Adionik
anyways i was gonna get those slotted rotors on ebay but a lot on 2gn say they wear unevenly and crack. The power 2's at modern are supposed to be pretty good. BUT they're 89 each.
anyways i was gonna get those slotted rotors on ebay but a lot on 2gn say they wear unevenly and crack. The power 2's at modern are supposed to be pretty good. BUT they're 89 each.
![Wink](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Which of these two looks like a better rotor?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...40470785QQrdZ1
OR
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...link:middle:us
thanks. ;D
#17
![Default](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Is there an easy way to look at the bearing and see if it needs replacement? Any ballpark ideas on what a garage would charge to change one out?
I'm really leaning more towards it being the rotors, given the fact that it only happens under heavy braking conditions (light braking doesn't cause the vibrations) and in all other situations, it's a straight and true ride without any vibrations. I'll probably just pop on some Autozone pads and rotors and see if that fixes the problem, if not then hub bearing replacement would be the next step.
I'm really leaning more towards it being the rotors, given the fact that it only happens under heavy braking conditions (light braking doesn't cause the vibrations) and in all other situations, it's a straight and true ride without any vibrations. I'll probably just pop on some Autozone pads and rotors and see if that fixes the problem, if not then hub bearing replacement would be the next step.
#19
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I wouldn't say I'm a hard driver. Back in December my wife hit a pothole on the stock rims and tires and bent the rim (what prompted me to bite the bullet and buy new rims) but after an alignment everything drove fine, it wasn't until about a month ago that the braking vibrations started. [/align][/align]It seems general consesus is to try the rotors/pads (only set me back about $100) and if that doesn't fix it then I'll have to look at the bearings.[/align]
#20
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Well like I said bearings would be a last option so replace the pads/rotors first. If for some reason you do that and you still have the vibrations, then keep the bearing problem in mind. Usually there is no easy way to just "look at it" and tell... you'd have to take it apart to find out. I wouldn't worry about it unless it actually comes to that. But like I meantioned before, and like you just said... your wife hit a big-*** pothole and you had to replace the rims, so the bearing problem is not really much of a stretch after all.