Thanks for everyone's input. I'm going to buy the pads and rotors today and see if that solves the problem. If not, then I'll cross the bearing bridge.

 

sounds like the rotors will most likely solve your problems

 

Let us know how it goes.

 

I swapped out the rotors and pads last night with a cheap set of ceramic pads and stock aftermarket rotors and everything seems to be fine (knock on a whole pile of wood). No vibrations at all when braking. [/align][/align]I didn't mess around with taking measurements, but just eyeballing it, the left rotor (where I felt most of the vibrations originating from) seemed slightly warped and the outer pad on the same side had uneven wearing.[/align][/align]It feels good again to hit the brakes and not get my fillings shaken out! Thanks for everyone's input![/align]

 

Good deal, glad to hear everything worked out for you... if you want a better challenge, you could bleed both your front brakes out and fill with fresh DOT 3/4 fluid until the fresh comes all the way through the lines... that way you can gaurentee consistent pressure on both sides up front. I've done this religously for a few years now in a couple different vehicles, and haven't had any rotor/braking problems since (besides routine wear).

 

how the hell do you bleed your brakes? It looks hard...

 

Nah.Screwed intothe backside of your calipers towards the top there is a small brass fitting with nothing connected to it, and it's got a tiny hole in the center of it. Basically, you grab a friend and tell him/her to sit in the driver's seat and step down on the brake pedal hard, and not let off of it no matter what. As they do that, you "unscrew" that brass fitting (a turn or two, don't completely unscrew it from the caliper), and the brake fluid squirts out from the inside of the fitting. Then you turn the fitting closed again, and they let off on the brake pedal, and repeat the process... as long as they understand NOT to let off the brake pedal or let it up at all while you still have the fitting turned OPEN... if they do that, you might draw air into the lines (bad bad bad). But anyway you keep doing and checking the fluid level in the reservoir periodically, re-filling as needed (but don't let it go bone dry). Once you get clear, clean brake fluid coming out of the fitting, you're done.

Pretty easy once you do it, that's the simplest way it's been done for almost 100 years now... and also the same process as if you bought all new brake lines or whatever and had to start from scratch.

 

all you need is a basic tool set and one buddyperson for DL (dumb labor)


edit: if i do this anytime soon to either of mine, ill post up a how-to.

 

That is something I do want to do, but I'll probably wait a couple months and do it when it's not 90 degrees outside...

 

Thats good that everything worked out for you. Also an easy way to check the wheel bearing is to jack up the front of the car and try to wiggle the wheel. If it moves than you have a bad wheel bearing. Which you dont have to worry about because it was not your problem. But later on if this happens its easy to check out.