A/C Problems
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
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A/C Problems
My A/C in my 2000 Neon doesn't work EXCEPT when the car is in drive and I'm stopped. The faster I go, the hotter the air gets.
I'm not sure if it just needs to be recharged, or is there's a compressor issue or what. Any thoughts?
I'm not sure if it just needs to be recharged, or is there's a compressor issue or what. Any thoughts?
Champion
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,546
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From: S.A
RE: A/C Problems
Bull****...recharge kits are usually around $39.99, dont' freak out if you dont' find them any cheaper especially since we're in summer
How do you go about recharing them btw? Mine needs one bad.
How do you go about recharing them btw? Mine needs one bad.
Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,539
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From: Erlanger, Kentucky
RE: A/C Problems
ORIGINAL: Adionik
How do you go about recharing them btw? Mine needs one bad.
How do you go about recharing them btw? Mine needs one bad.
Champion
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,519
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
RE: A/C Problems
I had to do this last summer to my Neon. Hit WalMart guys (and girls). They sell an $18 can there, and gaurenteed you will probably use only about half of it. It is nice, the $18 can comes with the quick-disconnect already mounted on the bottle (it's a tall bottle of R134 with a blue hose) and what's REALLY nice is it has a decent pressure gauge mounted to the top of it as well...
You have a re-charge port on your AC line on the passenger side of the car. Pop the dust cover off of it, and push the quick-disconnect fittting from the can fully onto the port. Start the car, turn on the AC (this is a mustto have it ON when doing this). As the compressor kicks on and off on it's own, watch the gauge... it is important the the readings on the gauge of the can only mean something when the compressor is ON, not OFF. When you see the compressor kick on, you will notice that the radings on the gauge will probably drop to almost nothing... Anyway, holding the can upright (and DO NOT shake it either), press the button and start pumping the contents of the can into the AC lines. Keep holding the button until the gauge reads "ok" in the green/yellow section, should be about the middle of the gauge and labeled pretty well (I forget the exact psi off the top of my head). You want the pressure to read this when the compressor is ON, not off... when it is off, you'll see the gauge jump a lot higher... this is fine... it is the "ON" state that you want to target on the gauge (since that's the only state that matters anyway).
When you're done with that, just pull the release on the quick-disconnect and put the round black dust cover back on the port, and you're done.Mine blew COLD COLD COLD after that, and my compressor seemed to cycle a lot less after that too (a good thing). Oh by the way, a big cause of this in our cars is supposedly bad winters... the seals in our AC systems don't seem to like sub-zero temperatures... but ever since I recharged it myself it's been great ever since (the same can of refridgerant is also supposed to have a lubricant and sealant in it, seems to work well).
You have a re-charge port on your AC line on the passenger side of the car. Pop the dust cover off of it, and push the quick-disconnect fittting from the can fully onto the port. Start the car, turn on the AC (this is a mustto have it ON when doing this). As the compressor kicks on and off on it's own, watch the gauge... it is important the the readings on the gauge of the can only mean something when the compressor is ON, not OFF. When you see the compressor kick on, you will notice that the radings on the gauge will probably drop to almost nothing... Anyway, holding the can upright (and DO NOT shake it either), press the button and start pumping the contents of the can into the AC lines. Keep holding the button until the gauge reads "ok" in the green/yellow section, should be about the middle of the gauge and labeled pretty well (I forget the exact psi off the top of my head). You want the pressure to read this when the compressor is ON, not off... when it is off, you'll see the gauge jump a lot higher... this is fine... it is the "ON" state that you want to target on the gauge (since that's the only state that matters anyway).
When you're done with that, just pull the release on the quick-disconnect and put the round black dust cover back on the port, and you're done.Mine blew COLD COLD COLD after that, and my compressor seemed to cycle a lot less after that too (a good thing). Oh by the way, a big cause of this in our cars is supposedly bad winters... the seals in our AC systems don't seem to like sub-zero temperatures... but ever since I recharged it myself it's been great ever since (the same can of refridgerant is also supposed to have a lubricant and sealant in it, seems to work well).
Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
From: Erlanger, Kentucky
RE: A/C Problems
ORIGINAL: IowaNeon04
I had to do this last summer to my Neon. Hit WalMart guys (and girls). They sell an $18 can there, and gaurenteed you will probably use only about half of it. It is nice, the $18 can comes with the quick-disconnect already mounted on the bottle (it's a tall bottle of R134 with a blue hose) and what's REALLY nice is it has a decent pressure gauge mounted to the top of it as well...
You have a re-charge port on your AC line on the passenger side of the car. Pop the dust cover off of it, and push the quick-disconnect fittting from the can fully onto the port. Start the car, turn on the AC (this is a mustto have it ON when doing this). As the compressor kicks on and off on it's own, watch the gauge... it is important the the readings on the gauge of the can only mean something when the compressor is ON, not OFF. When you see the compressor kick on, you will notice that the radings on the gauge will probably drop to almost nothing... Anyway, holding the can upright (and DO NOT shake it either), press the button and start pumping the contents of the can into the AC lines. Keep holding the button until the gauge reads "ok" in the green/yellow section, should be about the middle of the gauge and labeled pretty well (I forget the exact psi off the top of my head). You want the pressure to read this when the compressor is ON, not off... when it is off, you'll see the gauge jump a lot higher... this is fine... it is the "ON" state that you want to target on the gauge (since that's the only state that matters anyway).
When you're done with that, just pull the release on the quick-disconnect and put the round black dust cover back on the port, and you're done.Mine blew COLD COLD COLD after that, and my compressor seemed to cycle a lot less after that too (a good thing). Oh by the way, a big cause of this in our cars is supposedly bad winters... the seals in our AC systems don't seem to like sub-zero temperatures... but ever since I recharged it myself it's been great ever since (the same can of refridgerant is also supposed to have a lubricant and sealant in it, seems to work well).
I had to do this last summer to my Neon. Hit WalMart guys (and girls). They sell an $18 can there, and gaurenteed you will probably use only about half of it. It is nice, the $18 can comes with the quick-disconnect already mounted on the bottle (it's a tall bottle of R134 with a blue hose) and what's REALLY nice is it has a decent pressure gauge mounted to the top of it as well...
You have a re-charge port on your AC line on the passenger side of the car. Pop the dust cover off of it, and push the quick-disconnect fittting from the can fully onto the port. Start the car, turn on the AC (this is a mustto have it ON when doing this). As the compressor kicks on and off on it's own, watch the gauge... it is important the the readings on the gauge of the can only mean something when the compressor is ON, not OFF. When you see the compressor kick on, you will notice that the radings on the gauge will probably drop to almost nothing... Anyway, holding the can upright (and DO NOT shake it either), press the button and start pumping the contents of the can into the AC lines. Keep holding the button until the gauge reads "ok" in the green/yellow section, should be about the middle of the gauge and labeled pretty well (I forget the exact psi off the top of my head). You want the pressure to read this when the compressor is ON, not off... when it is off, you'll see the gauge jump a lot higher... this is fine... it is the "ON" state that you want to target on the gauge (since that's the only state that matters anyway).
When you're done with that, just pull the release on the quick-disconnect and put the round black dust cover back on the port, and you're done.Mine blew COLD COLD COLD after that, and my compressor seemed to cycle a lot less after that too (a good thing). Oh by the way, a big cause of this in our cars is supposedly bad winters... the seals in our AC systems don't seem to like sub-zero temperatures... but ever since I recharged it myself it's been great ever since (the same can of refridgerant is also supposed to have a lubricant and sealant in it, seems to work well).
