oil opinions
#31
#33
#34
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Iowa...are you even serious about running mobil 1 15k miles? I ran mobil 1 full synthetic in my car after the first oil change for quite some time. But after doing oil change after oil change of mobil 1 the stuff came out like water every time and black in color. And I change my oil right around 3000 miles all the time. I do city driving, but it is not that bad as I don't work downtown and have to deal with the stop-go bullsh!t. I quit running mobil 1 for that reason. And neon, I have heard/read bad things about Royal Purple.....
#35
#36
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Yeah, or 5W-30 synthetic in the summer and 0W-30 in the winter, if you live in the north...
Don't run that 10W-30 any more than you have too man... a little too thick @ startup... especially in the winter. Our motors were made with tighter tolerances that require the thinner winter grades.
Don't run that 10W-30 any more than you have too man... a little too thick @ startup... especially in the winter. Our motors were made with tighter tolerances that require the thinner winter grades.
I actually ran 10W-30 Havoline in a Chicago winter and got a fabulous Used Oil Analysis back. No problems. That being said 5W-30 is preferred. 0W-30 being a Syn is even better ALL YEAR long. It just is closer to operating viscosity when cold then 5W-30 is. Yup even at 80 degrees or more. Operating temp of 212 will have the viscosity at about 10.5 for XW-30 but at say 70 the 0W will be say 60 (above the required viscosity) the 5W might be 80 and the 10W say 100. As the heat up they all get closer to the recommended 10.5.
If you use a synthetic you should easily be able to go 7500+ miles/1 YR per Oil Change Interval. Conventional oil will easily go 5K/6M today.
So if you use Dino get 5W-30 of your favorite brand and smile and be happy.
If you use Syn and you favorite brand offers 0W-30 (and you don't have to pay a premium or VERY little) use it, if not just get 5W-30.
If you get a lot of consumption change your PCV valve and get a different brand and see if things improve.
IF you have an 05 model substitute 20 every where 30 was used above.
#38
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That's all well and good, but I care about two things... what the oil does on a cold start, and what it is doing @ operating temperature.
Mobil1 Synthetics:
0W-30 - cSt @ 60C = 63.1, 100C = 11.0.... pour point = -54 degrees
5W-30 - cSt @ 60C = 64.8, 100C = 11.3.... pour point = -48 degrees
10W-30 - cSt @ 60C = 62.0, 100C = 10.0... pour point = -45 degrees
I couldn't find the cSt rating for 85C, which is right below where our engines like to operate. I do have it saved at work, which I can link up tomorrow. But between 80 and 90C, the 0W-30 is actually has the higher cSt out of the three.
Notice anything else interesting?![Big Grin](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Btw, at 0C, the 0W-30 runs away from the 5W weights by hundreds of points on the cSt scale, and beats the 10W-30 by almost a thousand (in the negative, meaning thinner when cold).
Mobil1 Synthetics:
0W-30 - cSt @ 60C = 63.1, 100C = 11.0.... pour point = -54 degrees
5W-30 - cSt @ 60C = 64.8, 100C = 11.3.... pour point = -48 degrees
10W-30 - cSt @ 60C = 62.0, 100C = 10.0... pour point = -45 degrees
I couldn't find the cSt rating for 85C, which is right below where our engines like to operate. I do have it saved at work, which I can link up tomorrow. But between 80 and 90C, the 0W-30 is actually has the higher cSt out of the three.
Notice anything else interesting?
![Big Grin](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Btw, at 0C, the 0W-30 runs away from the 5W weights by hundreds of points on the cSt scale, and beats the 10W-30 by almost a thousand (in the negative, meaning thinner when cold).
Last edited by Exubus; 08-19-2008 at 09:07 PM.