^ lmfao hahaha rev the **** out of it man arent you affraid of busting it

i just got my neon so i will do a amsoil full syn. oil change in a week or 2 but there is a tick and mine is loud as faq only when i'm belo 1.5k anything above that it goes away

 

I just changed the oil in my wife's neon. 2005 Neon SXT I4 2.0 right, she used to have a 1995 Neon Sport, it did the same ticking sound that we have now with this car. The last oil change I went to synthetic, er thought I was compared to what people are saying about Mobil 1. After this weekend, I couldn't find Mobil 1 in stock in the area, so I went to Pennzoil Platinum, it states on the bottle full synthetic. If it isn't then that is true false advertising.

It still has a tick when first starting. I am not sure of the current mileage to be honest, I just knew it was due for the oil and well, she has it at work at the moment. My 2005 Stratus 2.7L does the small ticking noise at idle too. I just think it's the way computers are controlling the engines. I test drove an 2005 Impala before I got my Stratus in 2006. It did the same ticking sound at idle, but their excuse was the fact that it was closing down cams I guess, with the variable cams. Whatever, I don't care, just that I think it's more computer related than failure prone components.

If the noise progressively gets louder and more harsh, I think that would be a sign to get it checked out. Having had my 2005 Stratus since February 2006, it hasn't gained in audible or harshness, same with wife's neon we got in February 2007.

 

Mine use to tick/knock, but i changed to 5W-20 no more tick.

cheers
Kayakman

 

I guess it would help to clarify, I do use what the manual and cap ask for, 5w-20, forgot that part eh.

 

They may say full synthetic but what is the grade of that synthetic? Mobil 1 has gone from grade 4 to grade 3 and you still pay the same price!!! Check out the amsoil website and they will give you all the tests done with Mobil 1. I was very impressed. And just to be honest I do get a tick but the car sits all week. I start it up and it ticks for about 2 mins until the oil hits about 120 degrees then it goes away.

 

My 04 R/T had a mild tick when I got it. It was fairly faint. It only ticked when I parked on the roadside the wrong way. In other words, only at idle, when the car was leaning to the left. if the car was level or leaning right it didn't tick. weird.

I always used the 15,000mile mobil-1 10w40, but I changed it and the filter every 10k or so. 10-40 is a bit thick for a little engine, but it really liked to rev into the high rpm's so I figured i'd best have some thicker viscosity in the bearings.

it didn't continue to tick for all that long after I got it. maybe it liked the synthetic? or the thicker oil?

You know some of the premium oil filters have a rubber gasket which when the engine is turned off, keeps oil from flowing back down out of it into the oilpan. sorta helps get oil to the top of the engine more immediately at startup. Oil change places never carry this sort. I changed my own oil though (mobil-1 at the oil change places is ridiculously overpriced). I always used a long life filter with this sort of gasket in it. that might have an effect. I mean if its ticking at startup. i dunno *shrug*

 

Funny how my oil cap doesn't say jack about type of oil to be used, funny how my Neon never came with a manual.


I've got 5w30 in it now, I'm sure 5w20 would flow alot better to the rocker arms and if that is where the tick is coming from I'm sure it'll quiet it down.

My current synthetic is already black after only 5,000km(Good for 20,000, was probably from residual from old reg oil which was BLACK when I bought the car). So I'm gonna change it this week and I'll post weither or not the 5w20 made a difference.

 

Nice, but don't be worried when it still looks black, that is normal unless you are changing every 1,000 miles. In aviation, oil that is used is typically straight 30W, and it comes out brown when draining. This is the second oil change of bathing in synthetic for the wife's neon, we'll see how that comes out as well. But it's normal and I am not worried about it.

What year neon do you have? The 1995 neon that my wife used to have had a horizontally mounted oil filter. She now has a 2005 neon that the oil filter is mounted vertically. That anti-drain back would be of most benefit to the horizontally mounted filter as the oil would drain out then, back to the pan. On a vertical filter, with gravity, the difference of the oil above the oil level in the filter and ports, would flow back if there wasn't that valve. The main purpose and concern, is to keep the filtered contaminants inside the filter media from flowing back out of the media. In essence to be filtered again, or settle at the bottom of the pan. The positive side effect if you will, is that the oil is primed closer to the exit ports of the engine after the filter, having some oil on tap in the filter.

Having found that supposedly engineers have been working on the 2.7 engine in my Stratus since 2001 to the build of my 2005, they included a beam running the length of the engine for an increase in structural strength. It's positive side effect is that is also separates the oil from being egg beaten by the crankshaft, supposedly, that is from what the allpar.com site cites. I would then assume, and from having broken down aviation engines, that most of engines before this concept, have the crankshaft dipping into the oil reservoir, which makes sense because the crankshafts I was holding contained ports on the rod arm cheeks. The only way oil would get into those ports is if it was flowing through oil. So that to me, would be a big concern in those type of engines especially, to have anti-drain back filters, as this would prevent the filtered contaminants from mixing back into the oil sump and mixing in with the crankshaft.

I haven't broken down an engine that has this supposed structural beam yet, I am to assume that there is some way that oil is collected but yet allowed to drain through some ports at the bottom so that the oil doesn't get stagnant there by any chance. I don't know, I didn't engineer the engine, but I wanted to state that as to what I have previously stated, might make some ask then how is the crankshaft kept oiled then if separated. All I'm saying is the purpose of the anti-drain back valve as a primary, the other secondaries are the benefits of the primary purpose.

 

page 142 for an 04 sxt owners manuel, under spark knock.

 

^
Thanks definitely going to read on that