So, i'm gonna turbo
and yes, sarguy is correct the header will have to go good buy, i did the same thing u did, but just remember a build ur own turbo kit can come in stages... this is what i did, bought something, saved up, bought something, and so on.... it took me about a year to save up all the parts for a turbo kit... granted i went nothing cheap, i went with name brand stuff that i could believe in.
and yes ms is an option as well, the main reason i am not running mine right now is the simple prolbem of my state inspection laws.... check into floridas state laws, such as smog, obd testing and so on..... it is going to be a complete pain in the *** for me when i do finally hook up my ms to my car...
and yes ms is an option as well, the main reason i am not running mine right now is the simple prolbem of my state inspection laws.... check into floridas state laws, such as smog, obd testing and so on..... it is going to be a complete pain in the *** for me when i do finally hook up my ms to my car...
MegaSquirt (MS) and a return line are two completely different things.
MS is a computer to tune with. Fuel curves, timing, etc, etc.
A return line will only raise fuel pressure relative to the amount of boost you are running.
I would not go MegaSquirt before you build the motor. You are not going to make enough power to really put MS to good use. The RL and map clamp will do fine for the little amount of boost.
Plus, MS needs to be dyno tuned for optimum results.
MS is a computer to tune with. Fuel curves, timing, etc, etc.
A return line will only raise fuel pressure relative to the amount of boost you are running.
I would not go MegaSquirt before you build the motor. You are not going to make enough power to really put MS to good use. The RL and map clamp will do fine for the little amount of boost.
Plus, MS needs to be dyno tuned for optimum results.
so according to sar guy i needa get,
turbo, exhaust, waideband (what is that btw? lol), intercooler with pipes, return line, and fuel pump.
now do i need all of this for my car not to blow up after a week? cuz a couple pages ago dt said all i really needed was the turbo, manifold, and intercooler wit the pipes.
turbo, exhaust, waideband (what is that btw? lol), intercooler with pipes, return line, and fuel pump.
now do i need all of this for my car not to blow up after a week? cuz a couple pages ago dt said all i really needed was the turbo, manifold, and intercooler wit the pipes.
need not to boost high and make sure everything is installed correctly...pretty much it haha
A wideband o2 sensor will give a linear output for the entire range of A/F ratios that you can possibly see coming out of the engine.
A wideband o2 sensor will give a linear output for the entire range of A/F ratios that you can possibly see coming out of the engine.
You don't need a wideband, but I think anyone who does not get one for boosted applications is asking to blow up their motor.
I have read and seen people that own factory turbo cars pull spark plugs out of the engine with obvious signs of high cylinder temps because they were running lean. They were running lean because they turned up the pressure. A wideband lets you know instantly that your engine is receiving too much air and not enough fuel.
Also, you may see a narrowband air/fuel gauge and wonder why they are so cheap compared to widebands. A narrowband uses a different O2 sensor and will give you results that can be up to 1.5 off. So lets say you are shooting for 11.5:1, under boost, for your air/fuel ratio and you are using a narrowband. In reality, the gauge may say 11.5:1 when it is really anywhere between 13:1 and 10:1. 13:1 is so lean, I would not be surprised if the motor came apart or a hole melted in a piston. 10:1 is rich and rich is somewhat safe. So my point is, if you are going to spend the money on all of these turbo parts, spend the money on a wideband so your motor stays in one peice.
Another thing to remember when putting a turbo, specifically the TD04 out of an SRT-4, is that the SRT-4 runs a 2.4L, not a 2.0L. The SRT-4 also has a very low compression ratio, 8.1:1 to be exact. The SRT-4's motor is designed to run a turbocharger. You are trying to, which can be done, turbo a non-turbo car. When I said before that you cannot just slap a turbo on a car and go for 12 PSI, I meant that a TD04 will push out enough air at 12 PSI that can potentially harm your 2.0L motor. Especially if you do not have the correct amount of fuel and the instrumentation, I.E. a wideband and knock light,and a tune.
It is critical that you take it slow, research, and get everything right the first time. Do not go cheap and make sure when you start tuning that you know what the motor wants.
With that, I wish you the best of luck and am willing to help out in any way I can.
I have read and seen people that own factory turbo cars pull spark plugs out of the engine with obvious signs of high cylinder temps because they were running lean. They were running lean because they turned up the pressure. A wideband lets you know instantly that your engine is receiving too much air and not enough fuel.
Also, you may see a narrowband air/fuel gauge and wonder why they are so cheap compared to widebands. A narrowband uses a different O2 sensor and will give you results that can be up to 1.5 off. So lets say you are shooting for 11.5:1, under boost, for your air/fuel ratio and you are using a narrowband. In reality, the gauge may say 11.5:1 when it is really anywhere between 13:1 and 10:1. 13:1 is so lean, I would not be surprised if the motor came apart or a hole melted in a piston. 10:1 is rich and rich is somewhat safe. So my point is, if you are going to spend the money on all of these turbo parts, spend the money on a wideband so your motor stays in one peice.
Another thing to remember when putting a turbo, specifically the TD04 out of an SRT-4, is that the SRT-4 runs a 2.4L, not a 2.0L. The SRT-4 also has a very low compression ratio, 8.1:1 to be exact. The SRT-4's motor is designed to run a turbocharger. You are trying to, which can be done, turbo a non-turbo car. When I said before that you cannot just slap a turbo on a car and go for 12 PSI, I meant that a TD04 will push out enough air at 12 PSI that can potentially harm your 2.0L motor. Especially if you do not have the correct amount of fuel and the instrumentation, I.E. a wideband and knock light,and a tune.
It is critical that you take it slow, research, and get everything right the first time. Do not go cheap and make sure when you start tuning that you know what the motor wants.
With that, I wish you the best of luck and am willing to help out in any way I can.
Last edited by sarguy01; May 29, 2009 at 07:10 AM.
u can run ms with a return and rising rate fuel reg.... ms is just a tuner.... u get a better tune out of the car with it due to the options u have to play with, timing, spark, fuel curves exc.
remember u need a rising rate fuel pressure reg as well, spool boy mod to the sending unit.
here is a complete list on what u need
turbo
manifold
adaptor plate if going with srt manifold
all oil lines (return, and pressure)
air filter
fittings to tap into the oil pressure switch
intercooler
blow off valve
boots and clamps... DO NOT GO CHEAP with these... will cause u nothing but problems if u do
vaccuum hose
ts for hose
map clamp
welbro 255 intake fuel pump with spool boy mod
fuel return line
rising rate fuel pressure reg
wide band o2 sensor
injectors
fittings for all the feturn lines
have to tap the oil pan for the oil return line for the turbo
misc hardware, such as bolts to mount the intercooler, possible new exhaust manifold bolts
if u r running a hybrid turbo u will also need to tap into ur heater core hose for the coolant, so hose and clamps will also be needed...
i think that covers it, but i could of missed something
remember u need a rising rate fuel pressure reg as well, spool boy mod to the sending unit.
here is a complete list on what u need
turbo
manifold
adaptor plate if going with srt manifold
all oil lines (return, and pressure)
air filter
fittings to tap into the oil pressure switch
intercooler
blow off valve
boots and clamps... DO NOT GO CHEAP with these... will cause u nothing but problems if u do
vaccuum hose
ts for hose
map clamp
welbro 255 intake fuel pump with spool boy mod
fuel return line
rising rate fuel pressure reg
wide band o2 sensor
injectors
fittings for all the feturn lines
have to tap the oil pan for the oil return line for the turbo
misc hardware, such as bolts to mount the intercooler, possible new exhaust manifold bolts
if u r running a hybrid turbo u will also need to tap into ur heater core hose for the coolant, so hose and clamps will also be needed...
i think that covers it, but i could of missed something
u can run ms with a return and rising rate fuel reg.... ms is just a tuner.... u get a better tune out of the car with it due to the options u have to play with, timing, spark, fuel curves exc.
remember u need a rising rate fuel pressure reg as well, spool boy mod to the sending unit.
here is a complete list on what u need
turbo
manifold
Wastegate
adaptor plate if going with srt manifold
all oil lines (return, and pressure)
air filter
fittings to tap into the oil pressure switch
intercooler
blow off valve
boots and clamps... DO NOT GO CHEAP with these... will cause u nothing but problems if u do
vaccuum hose
ts for hose
map clamp
welbro 255 intake fuel pump with spool boy mod
fuel return line
rising rate fuel pressure reg
wide band o2 sensor
injectors
fittings for all the feturn lines
have to tap the oil pan for the oil return line for the turbo
misc hardware, such as bolts to mount the intercooler, possible new exhaust manifold bolts
if u r running a hybrid turbo u will also need to tap into ur heater core hose for the coolant, so hose and clamps will also be needed...
i think that covers it, but i could of missed something
remember u need a rising rate fuel pressure reg as well, spool boy mod to the sending unit.
here is a complete list on what u need
turbo
manifold
Wastegate
adaptor plate if going with srt manifold
all oil lines (return, and pressure)
air filter
fittings to tap into the oil pressure switch
intercooler
blow off valve
boots and clamps... DO NOT GO CHEAP with these... will cause u nothing but problems if u do
vaccuum hose
ts for hose
map clamp
welbro 255 intake fuel pump with spool boy mod
fuel return line
rising rate fuel pressure reg
wide band o2 sensor
injectors
fittings for all the feturn lines
have to tap the oil pan for the oil return line for the turbo
misc hardware, such as bolts to mount the intercooler, possible new exhaust manifold bolts
if u r running a hybrid turbo u will also need to tap into ur heater core hose for the coolant, so hose and clamps will also be needed...
i think that covers it, but i could of missed something
I miss the hell out of my SRT-4. Though, with 390 HP and 3.92's, this Ram isn't too bad for acceleration.


