Suspension Clunk and Parking brake adjustment cable?
2003 Dodge Neon SE 90k miles. Sometimes when I hit bumps (they don't have to be aggressive) I hear a clunk come from my front end. I have recently replaced right tie rod end and the left one needs to be replaced but there is not that much play, so I know it is not causing the clunk noise. I have heard a a lot about the motor mounts and I was wondering if there was a way I could test them without having to rip the motor apart.
Also I was wondering where the parking brake adjustment screw is located.
Also I was wondering where the parking brake adjustment screw is located.
To adjust the parking brake, you will need to remove the rear tires to gain access to the rear spindles. Climb under the car and look at the rear dust shield, You should see a black rectangular rubber grommet, remove it and adjust the star wheel on the inside by turning it with a screw driver. (should be the same for discs and drums)
If this doesn't fix your problem, the e-brake shoes may be worn out.
If this doesn't fix your problem, the e-brake shoes may be worn out.
2003 Dodge Neon SE 90k miles. Sometimes when I hit bumps (they don't have to be aggressive) I hear a clunk come from my front end. I have recently replaced right tie rod end and the left one needs to be replaced but there is not that much play, so I know it is not causing the clunk noise. I have heard a a lot about the motor mounts and I was wondering if there was a way I could test them without having to rip the motor apart.
Also I was wondering where the parking brake adjustment screw is located.
Also I was wondering where the parking brake adjustment screw is located.
First you have a 03 SE, so that means you have rear drum brakes. There isn't a separate emergency brake pad (that's for disk brakes). Second, you parking brake handle has excessive travel probably caused by pad wear. Since the pads are worn and the emergency brake handle uses the same pads as normal braking, you have to move the handle farther for the pad to engage the drum. Third, both front and rear brakes compensate for wear automatically; you do not have to make manual adjustments (see page 9-2 of the Haynes manual.)
Recommendations: pull the rear drums and inspect the brakes. There is the possibility that dirt and corrosion have prevented the self-adjuster mechanism from operating properly, but if that is the case, you need to get in there to fix that.
Recommendations: pull the rear drums and inspect the brakes. There is the possibility that dirt and corrosion have prevented the self-adjuster mechanism from operating properly, but if that is the case, you need to get in there to fix that.
I'm going to jack my car up tomorrow and let you know how my engine mount looks. I tried to do a quick test and just have my friend put it in reverse and drive but the engine movement didn't look that extreme. Also about the brakes, I think my adjustment star is frozen or backing itself off. My e-brake used to work until I started drifting a ton, now it barely works and I just adjusted the stars the other day, it probably doesn't help that my drums are out of round.
I'll adjust the brakes and look at the mount and do the test and let yall know.
I'll adjust the brakes and look at the mount and do the test and let yall know.
I'm going to jack my car up tomorrow and let you know how my engine mount looks. I tried to do a quick test and just have my friend put it in reverse and drive but the engine movement didn't look that extreme. Also about the brakes, I think my adjustment star is frozen or backing itself off. My e-brake used to work until I started drifting a ton, now it barely works and I just adjusted the stars the other day, it probably doesn't help that my drums are out of round.
I'll adjust the brakes and look at the mount and do the test and let yall know.
I'll adjust the brakes and look at the mount and do the test and let yall know.
Kyle, do not be decieved by the movement of the engine; you need to inspect that mount. If the upper and lower torque struts are in good shape they will keep the engine from moving too far, but the right mount is probably shot & causing your "clunk". If you are driving the car like I think you are, (hard starts and stops) that will take its toll on the engine mounts. Back to the brakes; if you are using the e-brake to get the rear end of the car to slide around that's not drifting. That's the poor man's way (a car without a limited slip differential) to get the back end to come around. Looks cool & it's fun, but I'll bet your rear pads are shot ... drums too (don't know how you know the are "out of round"; it's the inside diameter that matters.) Forget "adjusting" the brakes; you probably need a serious brake job and may have broken some of the self adjuster parts.
As for the mounts I still have to inspect it, I had one of my friends torque the engine, but still not conclusive movement or sound. Going to check my ball joints again and bushings.


