Need HELP BAD
#1
Need HELP BAD
I am have a 2000 Neon ES manual 176,872 miles and have a engine pinging/knocking noise (sounds likes its very low on oil)on the passenger side of the engine for at 3 yrs. I can only hear it at idle warm or cold and on start up and of course sitting at a stop lite at idle and at if you rev it a bit you only hear it at the end of the rev if that makes any sence. Engine oil is at proper level doesnt use oil or leak any oil, no check engine lites, plugs/wires have been changed 2x and the only other thing is that has been done is water pump went out had it replaced and the timing belt at the same time since it had to be pulled anyway. The noise was there before the timing belt change and acutualy quit for about a month then came back. It also seems have all the power and pick up that it always did. It only had 4,000 miles on it when I bought love the car and wanted to do some mods on engine and body but the noise is driving me crazy. I really need some help guys....Thanks David
#2
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Yep your right I dont hear it at all while actually driving. I am using the recommended 5w30 Pen high milage but have tried heavier in the past up 10w40 to see if it would help and didnt. I am new to this and haven't done alot of engine work so what is piston slap and what is the remedy for this.
I also forgot to mention that it doesnt smoke at all either. Thanks again for helping out a Rookie. Really love my little Neon he has been good to me, most of the miles are highway miles......Thanks David
I also forgot to mention that it doesnt smoke at all either. Thanks again for helping out a Rookie. Really love my little Neon he has been good to me, most of the miles are highway miles......Thanks David
#5
I'd type up a brief description of piston slap, but this is very well written, so:
http://www.pistonslap.com/whatisit.htm
This is one way I have seen to test for it as well:
Basically, as the engine wear increases, there is increasing room for the piston to slap against the cylinder wall. A thicker oil is not a fix by any means. I think I was thinking of something else when I typed that question. The sounds goes away because everything heats up so the clearance tightens reducing the slap. If it truly is what is causing the noise, a rebuild is going to be the remedy. You may do a compression and leakdown test as well to see what is going on in the engine a bit too. If those tests turn out OK, IMO I'd just keep chugging along until something in the engine says otherwise. My truck has been doing it for quite a few years now (doesn't get a lot of mileage put on it so timewise, it's a long time), but goes along just fine day after day.
EDIT: I tried making the font all the same, but it didn't work out so well, lol.
Piston slap is nothing new to piston driven internal combustion engines and compressors. It is the secondary (sideways or perpendicular) movement of a piston against the side of a cylinder bore where the primary movement of a piston is intended to be parallel (up and down) to the cylinder bore. All piston driven internal combustion engines and compressors have a certain amount of piston slap.
Excessive piston slap occurs when the clearance between the piston and the cylinder bore is too great. The piston to cylinder bore clearance becomes too great either through wear, mismatched pistons and cylinder bores at manufacturing or, a combination of both. The audible noise associated with excessive piston slap is due to the perpendicular impact of the piston against the wall of the cylinder bore. Audible piston slap is typically loudest when the engine is first started up. The pistons then expand with heat reducing the piston to cylinder bore clearance thus, reducing the perpendicular impact of the piston against the cylinder wall and its resulting noise.
This is one way I have seen to test for it as well:
There is a real nice yet little known test for piston slap I'll pass along. Some test results can be mixed or ambiguous but this one is 100% and I've never seen it wrong after using it for the last 10 years.
When the engine is cold, the aluminum piston is small in comparison to it's iron cylinder. Therefore the rather hollow slapping noise will be loudest first thing in the morning. After the engine warms up, the aluminum piston heats up faster than it's iron cylinder, cutting down on the excessive clearance between the piston and cylinder wall.
So, the test is this:
First thing in the morning, start the engine up and run it for 15 seconds while you listen carefully and memorize the sound and it's intensity. Shut it down quickly, pull the spark plugs and put two squirts of motor oil into each cylinder. Reinstall the plugs, fire the engine up again and listen.
If you have piston slap the noise will have been greatly reduced or even eliminated…..for 15 or 20 seconds that is, and then your nightmare noise will come back like a Marine Corps marching band coming toward you in the parade.
Thanks to Dave... from. http://remanufactured-engines.com/page5.htm
When the engine is cold, the aluminum piston is small in comparison to it's iron cylinder. Therefore the rather hollow slapping noise will be loudest first thing in the morning. After the engine warms up, the aluminum piston heats up faster than it's iron cylinder, cutting down on the excessive clearance between the piston and cylinder wall.
So, the test is this:
First thing in the morning, start the engine up and run it for 15 seconds while you listen carefully and memorize the sound and it's intensity. Shut it down quickly, pull the spark plugs and put two squirts of motor oil into each cylinder. Reinstall the plugs, fire the engine up again and listen.
If you have piston slap the noise will have been greatly reduced or even eliminated…..for 15 or 20 seconds that is, and then your nightmare noise will come back like a Marine Corps marching band coming toward you in the parade.
Thanks to Dave... from. http://remanufactured-engines.com/page5.htm
EDIT: I tried making the font all the same, but it didn't work out so well, lol.