'03 neon making me SHATTERED..plz help!
#1
'03 neon making me SHATTERED..plz help!
I have a '03 dodge neon stx, mileage 75,000. my check engine light came on around six months ago! sooo i checked replaced the ignition coil,spark plugs, n spark plug wires. then the light manages to come on every month. the mechanic changed my coil,spark plugs, n spark plug wires again! the car runs fine for a couple days, but then acts up again. this time the engine light began to flash n the car starts to loose power when idling. it does not cut off though, but when i accelerate it has lack of power. when i open the hood the engine is going crazy. soo i take it to the mechanics, he said that the 2nd cylinder is not getting the correct amount of compression. that it needs to be checked. however, i wanted to get a second look so i took it to another mechanic n he showed me 4 different codes! 1.PO441 evaporative emission system incorrect purge flow, 2.PO300 random misfire detected, 3. PO352 ignition coil B primary/secondary circuit, 4. P2305 ignition coil B secondary circuit. He said that it could be a problem with the EGR SLAVE VALVE SOLINOID SERVO SOLINOID and EGR valve. i dunno who may be right. i am hoping nothing is wrong with the cylinder. Can someone plz help! this problem has been going on for tooo long. thank u
#2
#3
The P0441 code won't do anything to the car other than make the CEL come on and cause it to fail a smog check. Something that should be fixed, but nothing that will cause the havoc you describe.
P0300 is a random or multiple-cylinder misfire, as stated. It could come from one of these (from http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300):
P0352 is a coil pack code, to sum it up. You could have a bad one (Parts can be DOA. Just because you got a new one, unfortunately, doesn't mean it works correctly 100% of the time) or the connectors/wiring could be bad or damaged. Those are probably two of the more common causes.
P2305 could be caused by:
So, three out of the four codes you have will cause your car to run poorly, and all three list the coil pack as a possible cause. That to me, would be the first thing I thoroughly go over. Three problems with one common possible cause. Again, the coil pack itself could be bad. The connector that plugs into the coil pack could be dirty, not seated correctly (they usually have some sort of gasket around the inside to keep water/moisture out; maybe that isn't seated correctly causing the connector to not seat correctly. When the car acts up, see if pushing the connector into the coil pack with your hand makes the engine idle correctly (making the connector seat correctly by force). Maybe wiggle the wires around a bit or gently push/pull on them at the connector when it is acting up. Just some quick ideas to try and narrow it down). The coil pack wiring leads to the PCM, IIRC. Trace that wiring as far as you can and see if a wire is broken, frayed, has damaged shielding/casing (the colored plastic around the actual wires), or touching metal causing it to ground out. If the computer were bad, I'd think you would have many more problems than what you do now; which again, would narrow it down to the coil pack circuit IMO until proven otherwise.
In my opinion, you have taken it to two mechanics who are looking to make some money, at this point based on the codes, by fixing something that isn't the problem...at least in my eyes, thus far.
P0300 is a random or multiple-cylinder misfire, as stated. It could come from one of these (from http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300):
- Faulty spark plugs or wires
- Faulty coil (pack)
- Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
- Faulty fuel injector(s)
- Burned exhaust valve
- Faulty catalytic converter(s)
- Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
- Faulty camshaft position sensor
- Defective computer
P0352 is a coil pack code, to sum it up. You could have a bad one (Parts can be DOA. Just because you got a new one, unfortunately, doesn't mean it works correctly 100% of the time) or the connectors/wiring could be bad or damaged. Those are probably two of the more common causes.
P2305 could be caused by:
- Intermittent condition
- Spark plug
- Ignition wire
- Ignition coil operation
- Ignition coil driver circuit open
- Coil control circuit shorted to ground
- PCM
- (A142) ASD relay output circuit
- Ignition coil
So, three out of the four codes you have will cause your car to run poorly, and all three list the coil pack as a possible cause. That to me, would be the first thing I thoroughly go over. Three problems with one common possible cause. Again, the coil pack itself could be bad. The connector that plugs into the coil pack could be dirty, not seated correctly (they usually have some sort of gasket around the inside to keep water/moisture out; maybe that isn't seated correctly causing the connector to not seat correctly. When the car acts up, see if pushing the connector into the coil pack with your hand makes the engine idle correctly (making the connector seat correctly by force). Maybe wiggle the wires around a bit or gently push/pull on them at the connector when it is acting up. Just some quick ideas to try and narrow it down). The coil pack wiring leads to the PCM, IIRC. Trace that wiring as far as you can and see if a wire is broken, frayed, has damaged shielding/casing (the colored plastic around the actual wires), or touching metal causing it to ground out. If the computer were bad, I'd think you would have many more problems than what you do now; which again, would narrow it down to the coil pack circuit IMO until proven otherwise.
In my opinion, you have taken it to two mechanics who are looking to make some money, at this point based on the codes, by fixing something that isn't the problem...at least in my eyes, thus far.
#4
The P0441 code won't do anything to the car other than make the CEL come on and cause it to fail a smog check. Something that should be fixed, but nothing that will cause the havoc you describe.
P0300 is a random or multiple-cylinder misfire, as stated. It could come from one of these (from http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300):
P0352 is a coil pack code, to sum it up. You could have a bad one (Parts can be DOA. Just because you got a new one, unfortunately, doesn't mean it works correctly 100% of the time) or the connectors/wiring could be bad or damaged. Those are probably two of the more common causes.
P2305 could be caused by:
So, three out of the four codes you have will cause your car to run poorly, and all three list the coil pack as a possible cause. That to me, would be the first thing I thoroughly go over. Three problems with one common possible cause. Again, the coil pack itself could be bad. The connector that plugs into the coil pack could be dirty, not seated correctly (they usually have some sort of gasket around the inside to keep water/moisture out; maybe that isn't seated correctly causing the connector to not seat correctly. When the car acts up, see if pushing the connector into the coil pack with your hand makes the engine idle correctly (making the connector seat correctly by force). Maybe wiggle the wires around a bit or gently push/pull on them at the connector when it is acting up. Just some quick ideas to try and narrow it down). The coil pack wiring leads to the PCM, IIRC. Trace that wiring as far as you can and see if a wire is broken, frayed, has damaged shielding/casing (the colored plastic around the actual wires), or touching metal causing it to ground out. If the computer were bad, I'd think you would have many more problems than what you do now; which again, would narrow it down to the coil pack circuit IMO until proven otherwise.
In my opinion, you have taken it to two mechanics who are looking to make some money, at this point based on the codes, by fixing something that isn't the problem...at least in my eyes, thus far.
P0300 is a random or multiple-cylinder misfire, as stated. It could come from one of these (from http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300):
- Faulty spark plugs or wires
- Faulty coil (pack)
- Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
- Faulty fuel injector(s)
- Burned exhaust valve
- Faulty catalytic converter(s)
- Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
- Faulty camshaft position sensor
- Defective computer
P0352 is a coil pack code, to sum it up. You could have a bad one (Parts can be DOA. Just because you got a new one, unfortunately, doesn't mean it works correctly 100% of the time) or the connectors/wiring could be bad or damaged. Those are probably two of the more common causes.
P2305 could be caused by:
- Intermittent condition
- Spark plug
- Ignition wire
- Ignition coil operation
- Ignition coil driver circuit open
- Coil control circuit shorted to ground
- PCM
- (A142) ASD relay output circuit
- Ignition coil
So, three out of the four codes you have will cause your car to run poorly, and all three list the coil pack as a possible cause. That to me, would be the first thing I thoroughly go over. Three problems with one common possible cause. Again, the coil pack itself could be bad. The connector that plugs into the coil pack could be dirty, not seated correctly (they usually have some sort of gasket around the inside to keep water/moisture out; maybe that isn't seated correctly causing the connector to not seat correctly. When the car acts up, see if pushing the connector into the coil pack with your hand makes the engine idle correctly (making the connector seat correctly by force). Maybe wiggle the wires around a bit or gently push/pull on them at the connector when it is acting up. Just some quick ideas to try and narrow it down). The coil pack wiring leads to the PCM, IIRC. Trace that wiring as far as you can and see if a wire is broken, frayed, has damaged shielding/casing (the colored plastic around the actual wires), or touching metal causing it to ground out. If the computer were bad, I'd think you would have many more problems than what you do now; which again, would narrow it down to the coil pack circuit IMO until proven otherwise.
In my opinion, you have taken it to two mechanics who are looking to make some money, at this point based on the codes, by fixing something that isn't the problem...at least in my eyes, thus far.
#5
The P0441 code won't do anything to the car other than make the CEL come on and cause it to fail a smog check. Something that should be fixed, but nothing that will cause the havoc you describe.
P0300 is a random or multiple-cylinder misfire, as stated. It could come from one of these (from http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300):
P0352 is a coil pack code, to sum it up. You could have a bad one (Parts can be DOA. Just because you got a new one, unfortunately, doesn't mean it works correctly 100% of the time) or the connectors/wiring could be bad or damaged. Those are probably two of the more common causes.
P2305 could be caused by:
So, three out of the four codes you have will cause your car to run poorly, and all three list the coil pack as a possible cause. That to me, would be the first thing I thoroughly go over. Three problems with one common possible cause. Again, the coil pack itself could be bad. The connector that plugs into the coil pack could be dirty, not seated correctly (they usually have some sort of gasket around the inside to keep water/moisture out; maybe that isn't seated correctly causing the connector to not seat correctly. When the car acts up, see if pushing the connector into the coil pack with your hand makes the engine idle correctly (making the connector seat correctly by force). Maybe wiggle the wires around a bit or gently push/pull on them at the connector when it is acting up. Just some quick ideas to try and narrow it down). The coil pack wiring leads to the PCM, IIRC. Trace that wiring as far as you can and see if a wire is broken, frayed, has damaged shielding/casing (the colored plastic around the actual wires), or touching metal causing it to ground out. If the computer were bad, I'd think you would have many more problems than what you do now; which again, would narrow it down to the coil pack circuit IMO until proven otherwise.
In my opinion, you have taken it to two mechanics who are looking to make some money, at this point based on the codes, by fixing something that isn't the problem...at least in my eyes, thus far.
P0300 is a random or multiple-cylinder misfire, as stated. It could come from one of these (from http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300):
- Faulty spark plugs or wires
- Faulty coil (pack)
- Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
- Faulty fuel injector(s)
- Burned exhaust valve
- Faulty catalytic converter(s)
- Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
- Faulty camshaft position sensor
- Defective computer
P0352 is a coil pack code, to sum it up. You could have a bad one (Parts can be DOA. Just because you got a new one, unfortunately, doesn't mean it works correctly 100% of the time) or the connectors/wiring could be bad or damaged. Those are probably two of the more common causes.
P2305 could be caused by:
- Intermittent condition
- Spark plug
- Ignition wire
- Ignition coil operation
- Ignition coil driver circuit open
- Coil control circuit shorted to ground
- PCM
- (A142) ASD relay output circuit
- Ignition coil
So, three out of the four codes you have will cause your car to run poorly, and all three list the coil pack as a possible cause. That to me, would be the first thing I thoroughly go over. Three problems with one common possible cause. Again, the coil pack itself could be bad. The connector that plugs into the coil pack could be dirty, not seated correctly (they usually have some sort of gasket around the inside to keep water/moisture out; maybe that isn't seated correctly causing the connector to not seat correctly. When the car acts up, see if pushing the connector into the coil pack with your hand makes the engine idle correctly (making the connector seat correctly by force). Maybe wiggle the wires around a bit or gently push/pull on them at the connector when it is acting up. Just some quick ideas to try and narrow it down). The coil pack wiring leads to the PCM, IIRC. Trace that wiring as far as you can and see if a wire is broken, frayed, has damaged shielding/casing (the colored plastic around the actual wires), or touching metal causing it to ground out. If the computer were bad, I'd think you would have many more problems than what you do now; which again, would narrow it down to the coil pack circuit IMO until proven otherwise.
In my opinion, you have taken it to two mechanics who are looking to make some money, at this point based on the codes, by fixing something that isn't the problem...at least in my eyes, thus far.
#7
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#8
#9
I was scanning Alldata and couldn't find any reference to an EGR valve then googled and came up with this link:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...egr-valve.html
In there it states that "No 2nd Gen Neon has an EGR valve".
Just thought i'd throw this wrench in the mix.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...egr-valve.html
In there it states that "No 2nd Gen Neon has an EGR valve".
Just thought i'd throw this wrench in the mix.
#10