Ok I have a 04 neon 2.0 sohc and i recently just had a p0344 code set. It was a camshaft sensor so i changed it drove it for a day and then it set again but now it is two p0344 codes and two p0066 which is now a crankshaft position sensor code. I cahnged the crankshaft sensor and erased the codes and it still sputters and is un drivable pretty much and barley will start. The wires look good but im going to check the continuity on all of them bc im thinking maybey a pcm problem. If anybody has any info or hints to help me out i would greatly appreciate it...Thank you

 

when you pulled the original crank sensor, did it have any oil in the connector?

 

no it was good along with the magnet and i soldered all new terminal and connectors to both crank and cam and still the same but dodge has a scan tool called the drb3 and i ran it on it and youre supposed to be able to re sync the cam and crank but it wouldnt allow me. So it turns out that my timing belt jumped a tooth and threw everything off and thats why its running like **** and throwing cam and crank codes.So be aware for anybody who has a cam or crank sensor code because it might not even be the sensors at all.And by the way does anybody know how much of a bitch its going to be to change my timing belt. ...hahaha Thanks...

 

that's going back to the basics... I too have been guilty of jumping on computer related issues on something that should be checked first.

 

ya seems like thats how i learn best...haha but i was stuck at home with no scan tool other than advanced auto whic could only give me codes so i did what i could untill i could get to my school.

 

actually more is learned from failures than success.

 

I've said that before a few times, but certain people seem to think that is impossible.

A timing belt/water pump/tensioner change isn't too bad; more time consuming. When you do that, you should change the motor mount and accessory tensioner while you have everything out. You can get the timing kit on Amazon for ~$88 shipped. Motor mount is cheapest on Amazon, for an Anchor brand. Accessory tensioner puller isn't much different at a parts store. I say replace all of that. The kit comes with the first three.

 

Ya ill probably just wait and do it all at once but i can leve the motor in right. Maybe just lift that side up with a jack or is it pretty easy to get to through the wheel well with all the plastic off. Im going to get on Mitchell or alldata today to get the procedures but i was just wandering if there is an tricks....Thanks

 

The trick is make sure the all of the timing marks stay lined up. Once you get in there, and see the steps, that will make more sense. The engine does stay in the entire time though.

 

after I do any timing systems, I always hand turn the crank 2 full revolutions to make sure everything lines up perfect before I button up the job or attempt to start.