I'm Andy.

I have a 2000 Plymouth Neon 2.0 SOHC.

The hydraulic timing belt tensioner gave way to 114,000 miles of use under previous ownership. I acquired the car as payment received for a rear torsion bar swap on a bubble Monte Carlo, job well done...

Borescope revealed valve damage. The head was stripped, complete valve job done, nose end of the engine bay rebuilt better than spec, and now I come to the problem:

Turn the key to "On" and hear the fuel pump charge the system.
Turn further and the solenoid will allow the starter to push three times.
Then nothing.

The 'Service Engine' icon is lit, but does not respond to the on/off,on/off tactic of retrieving codes.
Meanwhile, the gauges (speedometer & tach) are shooting all over the damn place.

Fuel pressure is good, but there is no apparent spark.


I can only hope this is a Forum with a grain of knowledge.
Helpful advice is appreciated!!


Thanks,
Andy M.

.....i do oil analysis

 

try and see what a real code reader says, the key dance is hit n miss I wouldnt 100% trust it.
just my 2 cents

 

I'm with ya. I'm waiting for my neighbor to get home so I can borrow his OBD. (He owns a small auto repair facility a few blocks from where we live).
I appreciate the input!

 

Is the battery good/fully charged? Are all of the grounds in place in the engine bay?

My car would not give codes, even to an actual code reader, until it completed a drive cycle because almost all of the OBD-II monitors had not read anything.

 

Grounds are all good. Battery is fully charged and still on a charger.
I replaced the camshaft position sensor with a new one.

Still getting codes:
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P1391 - Crankshaft position sensor intermittent signal

Haven't changed the crank sensor, as I have a real tough time believing that is the cause since that sensor was not touched. All wiring/grounds have been checked a dozen times.
Same symptoms as before. Starter kicks a few times and then nothing.

I'm going to go rest for awhile and come back to it renewed. I will let everyone know what it was once I find the solution.

 

The sensors just go out. Have you used a multimeter and checked those two sensors for proper voltage? If the crank sensor is bad, I believe it can cause a no-start situation.

 

a bad rank sensor would create a no spark condition as the PCM needs the cranks input to tell it when to fire the coil/s

even if you didnt remove it a slight bump could alter the air gap between sensor and crank causing not enough magnetic force. or the sensor could have just gave up it is 10yrs old anything could be possible

If you can get your mechanic buddy to use an osciloscope on the sensor you can see if its working properly

 

I was surfing the web and found a link on this site talking about a cam/crank relearn using a DRB III. That's my next objective. The Mac Tools ODB II tool I'm using does not have this option. SOB!
From my experience and from witnessing the symptoms first hand, this sounds like it's on target. I'll let you know.

 

Yeah... When I was reinstalling the wiring harness I realized that the plug for the coil pack and the cam sensor were the same. Switched them and it started right up...

Ain't life a beeatch?? Runs real good though!

 

lol this is why I label things, unless ive done a ton of em