remove the plug
set your meter to read DCV
put your black lead to the body(good clean spot to ground) put the red lead to the plug, probe the orange wire first . you should see 8 volts here, with the key in the on position of course. what was your result?

the next test is to check for a good ground wire (this is the black wire with the lt blue tracer) set your meter to test continuity and probe the plug at the black/ltblue wire and put the other probe to the neg post on the battery. the reading here will be the same as if you touched both probes together.
do you see continuity?

and the gray wire with a black tracer heads back to PCM so disregard this one at the moment. only need to look at this one if the others pass the tests

ill be checking back every 5 mins to lend you a hand here

 

tested both wires, 8.7volts running through the orange and i didnt know what setting to test the ground wire but i did it on the same setting as the power wire and it read .1v so im guessing the ground has a connection on both. pulled out the crank pos sensor and there was oil inside the plug and the sensor where the plug connects. could this cause my issue ? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...89_T%7CGRP2018____ is the multimeter i have, what setting would be to test contiuity, the manual that came with it tells me nothing about continuity

 

that oil could very well be the cause of your problems spray the whole area clean with some brake cleaner

that meter you bought has an continuity alarm which is nice its the setting by itself around 5oclock on that dial set it there and touch the leads togetrher you should hear a beeeep

 

ok cleaned the plug side of the sensor and the plug itself as good as humanly possible, used brake cleaner and q tips. gunna test for continuity on the crank sensor wire and put the sensor back in, if it doesnt solve the problem ill check for continuity in the cam sensor and get back to you. and thanks for all your help man =] its much appreciated

 

you could have possibly solved it by the cleaning. the oil can definetly be a factor in your problem. sounds like you need a new front seal, consider this after you get it running. but for now lets just focus on getting it goin.

you say its cold out? where you live? cold here too I wouldnt want to be outside fixin somethin today

 

i live in northeast pa, about 38 degrees and windy today. i tested the ground, buzzer made noise. put the sensor back in and gave it a crank, still no spark. gunna try pulling out the cam sensor now i guess, but the plug on that was only dirty on the outsidem, the inside of that one was perfectly clean. also i have a spare neon with no title for parts so i guess my next option would be to take the sensors out of that one if my next step doesnt work. ill keep ya posted

 

after you check for good voltage/ ground at Cam sensor, ne next test would be checkin the wires back to PCM. if they check good we would have to do a couple of tests on the ignition system. then if those tests pass. then start swapping parts

 

sorry dude
Gotta swing out for a bit.
I will be back later.
linking the wiring diagrams to help you out.

http://i52.tinypic.com/a78k1.jpg
http://i51.tinypic.com/6gifdj.jpg
http://i54.tinypic.com/14uyvzm.jpg

do you have a service manual?

 

http://carservicemanuals.blogspot.co...-download.html

http://carservicemanuals.blogspot.co...c-service.html

for the manuals

Thank Roush for these

 

well i dont know how to check the wires running to the pcm but i did swap the crank sensor already and no luck, in the middle of changing the cam sensor(came in to warm hands =X) also the link for the service manual was a nogo, the electric service manual did work im about to look at it. also im pretty sure the wire is fine but, the rubber boot on the axle had the wire harness from the crank sensor resting on it and it got worn down through but the wires are untouched. im thinking ill take a closer look at those wires if changing the cam sensor doesnt solve it.