2nd Gen Neon 2000 - 2005 2nd Gen Neon

Timing belt changed - Vibration/Louder?.

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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 11:13 AM
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Default Timing belt changed - Vibration/Louder?.

Newbie here with 2004 Neon SE (102500 miles). I got the timing belt job done this weekend (done by a private mechanic).

Things changed: Timing belt, water pump, timing belt tensioner, thermostat, alternator belt, new passenger side engine mount, both torque strut mounts, new accessory belt tensioner pulley.

Did not change the accessory belt. Did not change tranny side mount.

I kind of felt that the engine is louder , feel the hum much more inside.
Vibration esp more on the passenger side. Makes the passenger door panel rattle many times. Not much vibration in the steering.

I am going to have my mechanic re-align the torque struts. I'll take a print out of the alignment procedure mentioned here.

Questions:
1. Since he changed the center motor mount, does that have to be aligned by itself? Is it's even adjustable?. I doubt he he marked the old position before removing all of it.

2. In the other 2gn forums, one post said about the upper torque strut have a left/right orientation and that he had it reversed and that gave him bad vibration? Is there a left/right orientation for the torque struts?

Thx...
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 12:09 PM
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I don't have access to the info on this computer in regards to your PM. I will post it up later tonight.

EDIT: Just got the info off of the internet...
 

Last edited by darthroush; Feb 8, 2011 at 12:27 PM.
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 02:24 PM
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Thx!

Any idea on how much this is in terms of labor time? Should the engine mount bracket really come off?

And should the trannsmission mount be loosed or has anything to do with this. (what I don't get is: how can the engine be lowered or raised with that transmission mount connected. It's going to be flexed pretty badly I would think)

Yes, I am going to ask my mechanic to do this since he did the timing belt. And this this time draw out the darn correct mount location on the frame rail with permanent marker!
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 04:26 PM
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If you haven't done it before, but have experience working on cars, I'd plan a day or two in all reality. Being rubber mounts, they do actually have a fair amount of play in them...the same reason people upgrade bushings and everything else to poly. You shouldn't be paying him to fix the problem if he didn't follow the repair procedure correctly. Just ask him in a general way, such as, "I was wondering what measurement you got on the torque strut alignment?" If he knows the procedure, he'll know the answer. Though, did he measure to and from the correct points even if he knows the correct measurement...
 

Last edited by darthroush; Feb 8, 2011 at 04:30 PM.
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by darthroush
If you haven't done it before, but have experience working on cars, I'd plan a day or two in all reality. Being rubber mounts, they do actually have a fair amount of play in them...the same reason people upgrade bushings and everything else to poly. You shouldn't be paying him to fix the problem if he didn't follow the repair procedure correctly. Just ask him in a general way, such as, "I was wondering what measurement you got on the torque strut alignment?" If he knows the procedure, he'll know the answer. Though, did he measure to and from the correct points even if he knows the correct measurement...
I gave him a print out of the torque strut alignment procedure. (That however did not mention anything about the center mount. So I don't think he marked the position of the old center mount and simple removed swapped the new one in).

When I went to pick it up, He simply said "yeah the distance on that top strut did seems about 4.7 inches". He also said he tried different alignment positions. i was like hmmm....I am yet to check that distance. Is it possible for that measurement to be 4.7 inches but still not be properly aligned?

1. I am going to ask him to re-mount/align the center engine mount using the above procedure.
2. and
then align torque struts.
3. He for sure jacked the motor up when doing the timing belt. Can this be done without loosening the transmission mount? (I am wondering the tyranny mount got damaged etc)

But if this is 50% of the work to do the timing belt, he might complain. (If the whole engine mount bracket has to come off etc...).

4. Can the position of the center engine mount against the frame rail be adjusted by simply loosening the 4 bolts (supporting the motor from below). Space there is tight to get those 4 bolts.
Thx again.
 

Last edited by gcretro; Feb 8, 2011 at 09:24 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 03:55 AM
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He should have known about the center mount IMO if he accepted the job. Not your problem. That measurement is exact, 4.7", not about, if measured from the correct spots.

I would assume it could be done without the plate coming out, might just be a bit more challenging. His fault for not doing it correctly the first time.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 07:37 AM
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Thx. Last question, So the center mount alignment (holes being concentric) is as import as aligning torque struts?.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 02:42 PM
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More important. If that mount isn't aligned or broken, you'll have problems even if the torque struts are brand new and aligned. I'm speaking from experience about it being broken, with new torque struts. I'm sure there is an important reason the manual says to mark that mount before removing it.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 08:54 PM
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Default So What Happened gcretro?

gcretro,
I am now having the same vibration problem after having the timing belt in my '03 Neon changed. You asked "Can the position of the center engine mount against the frame rail be adjusted by simply loosening the 4 bolts (supporting the motor from below)? Space there is tight to get those 4 bolts." What did you end up doing? I'm anxious to find out and get rid of the vibration.
Thanks,
carmst
 
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 12:31 PM
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I didn't do anything. After some driving, the vibration did go down.

When i changed the TB, I had also changed the center mount and both torque mounts. My guess is the mounts had to be broken in...
 
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