Dodge Neon Part Numbers, Maintenance Intervals and Fluid Capacities
#1
Dodge Neon Part Numbers, Maintenance Intervals and Fluid Capacities
SHIFTER BUSHINGS FOR MTX
http://www.boogerracing.com/boogerbushings.html
MFS (MULTIFUNCTION SWITCH) CONNECTOR
05183442AA
MFS (MULTIFUNCTION SWITCH)
No foglights: 05073044AA
With foglights: 05073045AA
INTERMITTENT WIPER SWITCH
05019567AA
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
4608303AB
MOUNTS
Engine Mount (a.k.a. Rear Engine Mount)
FRONT END ACCESSORY DRIVE COMPONENTS
Alternator
TIMING BELTS AND COMPONENTS
Timing Component Kit; W/Mech. Tensioner; Includes Bracket
PROTHANE POLYURETHANE BUSHINGS
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
BUMP STOPS
01-06 Rear Bump Stop Kit 4-1301
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
95-99 Front C-Arm Bushing Kit 4-209
00-06 Front C-Arm Bushing Kit 4-214
01-06 Front C-Arm Bushing Kit 4-214
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
END LINK BUSHINGS, FRONT & REAR
95-99 Front End Link Kit 4-401
95-99 Rear End Link Kit (sport package only) 4-402
00-06 Front End Link Kit 4-401
00-06 Rear End Link Kit 19-413
01-06 Front End Link Kit 4-401
01-06 Rear End Link Kit 4-403
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
SHIFTER BUSHINGS
95-06 Shifter Bushing Kit 4-1605
03-06 SRT-4 Shifter Bushing Kit 4-1606
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
SWAY BAR BUSHINGS. FRONT & REAR
95-06 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 20mm Bar 4-1118
95-99 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 22mm Bar 4-1119
00-06 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 24mm Bar 4-1120
95-99 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 16mm Bar 4-1111
00-06 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 12mm Bar 4-1130
00-06 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 14mm Bar 4-1131
00-06 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 17mm Bar 4-1137
01-06 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 22mm Bar 4-1119
01-06 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 24mm Bar 4-1120
01-06 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 18mm 4-1136
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
TOTAL KITS
95-99 Total Kit (Includes Sport Package) 4-2002
00-06 Total Kit (Neon, SRT-4) 4-2007
01-06 Total Kit (Includes Touring Edition) 4-2006
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
COIL SPRING ISOLATORS
01-06 Front Coil Spring Isolator Kit, Lower 4-1704
01-06 Rear Coil Spring Isolator Kit, Upper & Lower 4-1705
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS, REAR
95-99 Rear C-Arm Bushing Kit 4-301
00-06 Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Kit 4-304
01-06 Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Kit 4-302
01-06 Rear Watts Linkage Bushing Kit 4-303
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
MOTOR MOUNT INSERTS
95-99 Engine Mount Insert Kit, Front 4-501
95-99 Engine Mount Insert Kit, Right 4-502
95-99 Transmission Mount Insert Kit, Left 4-503
95-99 All 3 Mounts, Kit 4-1901
95-99 All 3 Mounts, Kit (Softer Street Style) 4-1902
00-06 Upper & Lower Mount Insert Kit (Race) 4-1905
00-06 Upper & Lower Mount Insert Kit (Street) 4-1906
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
STRUT ROD BUSHINGS
95-99 Rear Strut Rod Bushing Kit 4-1204
00-06 Rear Strut Rod Bushing Kit 4-1206
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
TIE ROD BOOTS
95-99 Tie Rod Boot Kit (2) 19-1711
AIR FILTERS
OIL FILTERS
Mopar- 04105409AB
SPARK PLUGS
Question:
Answer:
http://www.boogerracing.com/boogerbushings.html
MFS (MULTIFUNCTION SWITCH) CONNECTOR
05183442AA
MFS (MULTIFUNCTION SWITCH)
No foglights: 05073044AA
With foglights: 05073045AA
INTERMITTENT WIPER SWITCH
05019567AA
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
4608303AB
MOUNTS
Engine Mount (a.k.a. Rear Engine Mount)
- Anchor 2947 *NOTE: As of right now, this mount is not fluid-filled like the OEM one.*
- Mopar 05086709AB
- '00-'02 ATX- Anchor 2975 05274903AD
- '03-'05 ATX- Anchor 3124 or Mopar 05274952AA
- MTX- Anchor 3050 or Mopar 05274951AA
- Upper (a.k.a. Front Right Upper Engine Mount) - Anchor 2948 or Mopar 04668930AB
- Lower (a.k.a. Front Right Lower Engine Mount) - Anchor 2949 or Mopar 05274903AD
FRONT END ACCESSORY DRIVE COMPONENTS
Alternator
- Gates Standard- K040335
- Gates High Performance- K040335RB (Blue)
- Gates Standard- K040445
- Gates Standard- K040517
- Gates High Performance- K040517RB (Blue)
- Gates- 38277
- Mopar- 04668364AD
- Gates- 36156
- Dayco- 89147
TIMING BELTS AND COMPONENTS
Timing Component Kit; W/Mech. Tensioner; Includes Bracket
- Gates Timing Belt Component Kit W/Water Pump- TCKWP245A
- Gates Timing Belt Component Kit- TCK245A
- Gates Timing Belt Component Kit W/Water Pump- TCKWP245B
- Gates Timing Belt Component Kit- TCK245B
- Gates Standard- T245
- Gates High Performance- T245RB (Blue)
PROTHANE POLYURETHANE BUSHINGS
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
BUMP STOPS
01-06 Rear Bump Stop Kit 4-1301
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
95-99 Front C-Arm Bushing Kit 4-209
00-06 Front C-Arm Bushing Kit 4-214
01-06 Front C-Arm Bushing Kit 4-214
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
END LINK BUSHINGS, FRONT & REAR
95-99 Front End Link Kit 4-401
95-99 Rear End Link Kit (sport package only) 4-402
00-06 Front End Link Kit 4-401
00-06 Rear End Link Kit 19-413
01-06 Front End Link Kit 4-401
01-06 Rear End Link Kit 4-403
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
SHIFTER BUSHINGS
95-06 Shifter Bushing Kit 4-1605
03-06 SRT-4 Shifter Bushing Kit 4-1606
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
SWAY BAR BUSHINGS. FRONT & REAR
95-06 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 20mm Bar 4-1118
95-99 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 22mm Bar 4-1119
00-06 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 24mm Bar 4-1120
95-99 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 16mm Bar 4-1111
00-06 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 12mm Bar 4-1130
00-06 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 14mm Bar 4-1131
00-06 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 17mm Bar 4-1137
01-06 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 22mm Bar 4-1119
01-06 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 24mm Bar 4-1120
01-06 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit, 18mm 4-1136
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
TOTAL KITS
95-99 Total Kit (Includes Sport Package) 4-2002
00-06 Total Kit (Neon, SRT-4) 4-2007
01-06 Total Kit (Includes Touring Edition) 4-2006
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
COIL SPRING ISOLATORS
01-06 Front Coil Spring Isolator Kit, Lower 4-1704
01-06 Rear Coil Spring Isolator Kit, Upper & Lower 4-1705
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS, REAR
95-99 Rear C-Arm Bushing Kit 4-301
00-06 Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Kit 4-304
01-06 Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Kit 4-302
01-06 Rear Watts Linkage Bushing Kit 4-303
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
MOTOR MOUNT INSERTS
95-99 Engine Mount Insert Kit, Front 4-501
95-99 Engine Mount Insert Kit, Right 4-502
95-99 Transmission Mount Insert Kit, Left 4-503
95-99 All 3 Mounts, Kit 4-1901
95-99 All 3 Mounts, Kit (Softer Street Style) 4-1902
00-06 Upper & Lower Mount Insert Kit (Race) 4-1905
00-06 Upper & Lower Mount Insert Kit (Street) 4-1906
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
STRUT ROD BUSHINGS
95-99 Rear Strut Rod Bushing Kit 4-1204
00-06 Rear Strut Rod Bushing Kit 4-1206
Chrysler Dodge/Plymouth/Neon, PT Cruiser
TIE ROD BOOTS
95-99 Tie Rod Boot Kit (2) 19-1711
AIR FILTERS
OIL FILTERS
Mopar- 04105409AB
SPARK PLUGS
Question:
What spark plug should I put in the Neon?
Here's from a local engine shop (a sponsor on another forum) that regularly builds 500HP-1,000HP+ engines that outlast and outperform most everyone else's around:
The talk of heads is about Mustang engines; this is from a Mustang forum.
Copper: Best heat dissipation, shortest life, cheap
Platinum: Poor heat dissipation (burns hotter), 100K life, more expensive
Iridium: VERY poor heat dissipation (burns the hottest), 100K+ life, Extremely expensive
On boosted setups, it is a very bad idea to run platinum and iridium core plugs due to the lack of heat dissipation. The spark plug can actually become a Glow Plug and cause detonation, regardless of octane used.
This is a real issue in 2V heads as the poor head design already has a hard time dissipating the heat at the spark plug.
FYI, the hotter the spark, the more complete the burn of the A/F. This is why the driveability is better with an iridium vs copper.
My wife's 2001 VW Passat requires Premium fuel (I think the owners manual calls for 93 or 94 octane actually). Stock the thing came with Platinum plugs. The motor has knock sensors. Every Passat we test drove had tip-in detonation with heavy throttle input, then the knock sensors would pull timing & it'd go away. I installed Autolite $1.95 Copper spark plugs of the exact same heat range and the detonation is GONE. No other changes were made.
Platinum & Iridium = NOT a performance plug. These should be reserved for the Daily Drivers that don't require high octane fuel.
Copper = BEST performance plug.
I will not tune a boosted motor with Platinum or Iridium plugs. Only Copper.
Platinum: Poor heat dissipation (burns hotter), 100K life, more expensive
Iridium: VERY poor heat dissipation (burns the hottest), 100K+ life, Extremely expensive
On boosted setups, it is a very bad idea to run platinum and iridium core plugs due to the lack of heat dissipation. The spark plug can actually become a Glow Plug and cause detonation, regardless of octane used.
This is a real issue in 2V heads as the poor head design already has a hard time dissipating the heat at the spark plug.
FYI, the hotter the spark, the more complete the burn of the A/F. This is why the driveability is better with an iridium vs copper.
My wife's 2001 VW Passat requires Premium fuel (I think the owners manual calls for 93 or 94 octane actually). Stock the thing came with Platinum plugs. The motor has knock sensors. Every Passat we test drove had tip-in detonation with heavy throttle input, then the knock sensors would pull timing & it'd go away. I installed Autolite $1.95 Copper spark plugs of the exact same heat range and the detonation is GONE. No other changes were made.
Platinum & Iridium = NOT a performance plug. These should be reserved for the Daily Drivers that don't require high octane fuel.
Copper = BEST performance plug.
I will not tune a boosted motor with Platinum or Iridium plugs. Only Copper.
#2
When should I change ______?
Plugs [Gapped to 0.035"]
Every 30,000 miles (with copper plugs)
Wires
Every 60,000 miles, or, every other plug change.
Oil and Filter [4.5qts with filter]
Every 5,000 (with conventional or synthetic blend).
Every 3,000 if frequently driven less than 15-20 minutes when the engine is cold.
*Don't forget to check the drain plug gasket at each change*
Air Filter
Every 15,000-30,000 miles (for dusty and non-dusty conditions, respectively) for a regular, paper filter.
Make-Up Air Filter
Every 30,000 miles (this is that little square piece of foam in the air filter box).
Brake Fluid [DOT 3 or higher]
I like to give the system a flush every brake pad/shoe change. Brake fluid wears like engine oil and should be changed every so often. A flush when you are already under the car doing the brakes will only take about 10 minutes tops. Just don't ever let the master cylinder run dry! Top it off throughout the process.
Engine Coolant [6.5qts; 1/2 distilled water and 1/2 coolant]
Regular G-05 (the bright green coolant): flush and refill every 2 or 3 years or 30,000 miles.
"Long-Life" coolants, such as the Mopar coolant, calls for 5 years or 100,000 miles.
Power Steering Fluid [ATF+4]
Change every 2 or 3 years or 30,000 miles.
Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter [ATF+4; 4.0 qts]
Every 48,000-60,000 miles
Manual Transmission Fluid [ATF+4; 2.5-2.8 qts]
Every 48,000-60,000 miles (Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W30 is becoming a popular replacement for the ATF+4 in manual transmissions, and manual transmissions only!)
Accessory Belts
Every 60,000 miles
Timing Belt, Water Pump and Tensioner
Every 100,000 miles
*NOTE: It would not be a bad idea to replace the cam and crank seals, accessory belt tensioner pulley and possibly the engine mount. Be sure to use an OEM engine mount as they are fluid-filled unlike aftermarket parts. Using a non-filled mount can cause excess vibration in the cabin of the vehicle.*
PCV Valve
Every 30,000 miles
Plugs [Gapped to 0.035"]
Every 30,000 miles (with copper plugs)
Wires
Every 60,000 miles, or, every other plug change.
Oil and Filter [4.5qts with filter]
Every 5,000 (with conventional or synthetic blend).
Every 3,000 if frequently driven less than 15-20 minutes when the engine is cold.
*Don't forget to check the drain plug gasket at each change*
Air Filter
Every 15,000-30,000 miles (for dusty and non-dusty conditions, respectively) for a regular, paper filter.
Make-Up Air Filter
Every 30,000 miles (this is that little square piece of foam in the air filter box).
Brake Fluid [DOT 3 or higher]
I like to give the system a flush every brake pad/shoe change. Brake fluid wears like engine oil and should be changed every so often. A flush when you are already under the car doing the brakes will only take about 10 minutes tops. Just don't ever let the master cylinder run dry! Top it off throughout the process.
Engine Coolant [6.5qts; 1/2 distilled water and 1/2 coolant]
Regular G-05 (the bright green coolant): flush and refill every 2 or 3 years or 30,000 miles.
"Long-Life" coolants, such as the Mopar coolant, calls for 5 years or 100,000 miles.
Power Steering Fluid [ATF+4]
Change every 2 or 3 years or 30,000 miles.
Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter [ATF+4; 4.0 qts]
Every 48,000-60,000 miles
Manual Transmission Fluid [ATF+4; 2.5-2.8 qts]
Every 48,000-60,000 miles (Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W30 is becoming a popular replacement for the ATF+4 in manual transmissions, and manual transmissions only!)
Accessory Belts
Every 60,000 miles
Timing Belt, Water Pump and Tensioner
Every 100,000 miles
*NOTE: It would not be a bad idea to replace the cam and crank seals, accessory belt tensioner pulley and possibly the engine mount. Be sure to use an OEM engine mount as they are fluid-filled unlike aftermarket parts. Using a non-filled mount can cause excess vibration in the cabin of the vehicle.*
PCV Valve
Every 30,000 miles
#3
#6
#7
only asking b/c you can now get Mopar branded filters @ wallyworld, amazon, and other parts shops. just looking for the part number.
why not add one more brand to the listing in case something happens to be sold out in your neck of the woods?
according to this PDF the part number appears to be 04105409AB
who would have thought it would take me the better part of an evening to find a simple part number online?...
why not add one more brand to the listing in case something happens to be sold out in your neck of the woods?
according to this PDF the part number appears to be 04105409AB
who would have thought it would take me the better part of an evening to find a simple part number online?...
Trending Topics
#9
Two things
1. You should also annotate on the spark plugs bit, for people reading this that you shouldn't buy 4-prong or anything that burns hotter than Copper, because you'll warp the spark plug wells and then when driving suddenly it'll start bogging hard and you'll have 0 power. Spitting and choking.
It warps and loosens up the holes and then spits the plug out. It costs anywhere from 300 to 800 to tap and die new heater cores. D; (from experience)
2. Do you have any manuals or anything that has a good explanation (better than this ****ty Haynes manual) for replacing the right motor mount? (not 2 torque mounts or tranx mount -- I see a lot of confusion with this)
The Haynes manual is like a 4-step, DUH "pull out, put it - mark it". Without any explanation and the transx mount was a nightmare to fix.
It warps and loosens up the holes and then spits the plug out. It costs anywhere from 300 to 800 to tap and die new heater cores. D; (from experience)
2. Do you have any manuals or anything that has a good explanation (better than this ****ty Haynes manual) for replacing the right motor mount? (not 2 torque mounts or tranx mount -- I see a lot of confusion with this)
The Haynes manual is like a 4-step, DUH "pull out, put it - mark it". Without any explanation and the transx mount was a nightmare to fix.
#10
1. You should also annotate on the spark plugs bit, for people reading this that you shouldn't buy 4-prong or anything that burns hotter than Copper, because you'll warp the spark plug wells and then when driving suddenly it'll start bogging hard and you'll have 0 power. Spitting and choking.
It warps and loosens up the holes and then spits the plug out. It costs anywhere from 300 to 800 to tap and die new heater cores. D; (from experience)
2. Do you have any manuals or anything that has a good explanation (better than this ****ty Haynes manual) for replacing the right motor mount? (not 2 torque mounts or tranx mount -- I see a lot of confusion with this)
The Haynes manual is like a 4-step, DUH "pull out, put it - mark it". Without any explanation and the transx mount was a nightmare to fix.
It warps and loosens up the holes and then spits the plug out. It costs anywhere from 300 to 800 to tap and die new heater cores. D; (from experience)
2. Do you have any manuals or anything that has a good explanation (better than this ****ty Haynes manual) for replacing the right motor mount? (not 2 torque mounts or tranx mount -- I see a lot of confusion with this)
The Haynes manual is like a 4-step, DUH "pull out, put it - mark it". Without any explanation and the transx mount was a nightmare to fix.
Manuals...links are in my signature for the factory shop manuals.