First off all, if the temp gauge is getting that high by the time you get in the car, you are waiting too long and wasting gas. Have you gone through that entire list I posted in your other thread? The list about heating problem causes?

 

I let it warm up that long hoping by sime miracle this will be the day I get in turn the heat on an get toasty but it's not happening. I read through that list. But can't find tge link now. Can you send it here? Have you ever heard of the temp dropping like that?

 

I have heard of the temperature dropping like that, but it's due to a cooling system problem. The trick is finding out that specific problem.

Do you have any codes stored in the PCM, out of curiosity?

 

I'm not sure what codes are stored in the PCM? Check engine light isn't on. It came one for about 10 seconds then off again back when the car was sputtering which by the way was fixed with replacing the spark plug wires. I've read that post from when you posted the link and the only thing I can think of left to check would be the cowl intake. I did find out today when changing the bumper out, the lower air box (lower drive side behind bumper) is just sitting on the bumper because the supports were ripped off. The tube isn't connected to the one that comes from the air filter housing. There is also a hole in the box from where it ripped off from the support... So my question is; Will this cause the car to perform differently? Could it have anything to do with the heater?

 

The big, odd looking black box thing? That's the air silencer. I took mine out. It's something useless for the air intake. Remember though, the CEL really only comes on for major problems that will cause the car to fail a smog check.

 

How do I check for the codes tgat are stored in the PCM?

 

Turn the key from off to on three times rapidly, ending in the on position. Any codes will be displayed in the odometer.

 

I've tried this several times and can't get it to display anything. When I end in the on position on the third time it just displays the mileage as if I just turned the car on...

 

You aren't turning the car on or going too far back and going to the Acc. position, are you? You go from ignition off (the position where you can remove the key from the ignition), to on (the position right before you turn the key forward to start the engine), to off, to on, to off, ending at on. You don't have to do this at lightening speed either. When I say rapidly, I just mean don't stop in the middle of the key turning.

 

Ya, thats the way I did it. There is the position where you can put the key in, another position, then the on position then the position when the car starts. Tried bother the position just before "on" and the position where you can put the key in... neither worked. The instrument cluster has been changed and the battery disconnected many times for various other fixes, could this be why I cant get any codes to display?

Also, I went to the Dodge Dealer today and told him all the symptoms of the heater problem and he immediately said it the water pump. He said something along the lines of the propellers being worn out so its not spinning as fast as it should and that the faster i go, the higher the RPM's, the faster the water pump spins. I thought this was great news as the water pump is $30 for a reman. and $40 for new. Then I talked to my buddy who helps me work on my cars and he told me that he thinks the water pump is Timing Belt Driven. Is this true? When I called Napa Auto Parts to get the price on the pump he said there is two options... Timing Belt Driven and Non Timing Belt Driven. How do I know if mine is or not?