Reverse gear won't work when cold
#1
11-03-2011, 08:48 PM
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Reverse gear won't work when cold
For the past week or so when I start my 2000 Dodge Neon (4 door) in the morning, and after letting my car warm up for about 5 minutes (get colder now that winter is here), when I shift into reverse and take my foot off the brake, the car barely backs up. Sometimes it will "catch" and then go, but more often than not I find I have to put it back in park, shift into drive, then shift to reverse. After I have driven to work, if I shift into reverse all is fine and dandy. I noticed the same thing happens after work when I start the car up.
Any ideas on what is causing this. The car is in mint condition otherwise (only 60,000 km on it). Thanks.
Any ideas on what is causing this. The car is in mint condition otherwise (only 60,000 km on it). Thanks.
#2
11-04-2011, 03:16 AM
For the past week or so when I start my 2000 Dodge Neon (4 door) in the morning, and after letting my car warm up for about 5 minutes (get colder now that winter is here), when I shift into reverse and take my foot off the brake, the car barely backs up. Sometimes it will "catch" and then go, but more often than not I find I have to put it back in park, shift into drive, then shift to reverse. After I have driven to work, if I shift into reverse all is fine and dandy. I noticed the same thing happens after work when I start the car up.
Any ideas on what is causing this. The car is in mint condition otherwise (only 60,000 km on it). Thanks.
Any ideas on what is causing this. The car is in mint condition otherwise (only 60,000 km on it). Thanks.
Probably the gear or selector.
Top left gear in this picture is the reverse gear...it's fairly easy to replace once trans is pulled apart.
Here's a blow up parts diagram.
31/32/33 are the number pertaining to reverse.
Anyway on this trans you can't see it becasue contact is on the under side but half of gear was chewed up. you had to toss it in reverse a few times to get it in, my new trans has no wear marks on gear and likewise goes into reverse fine.....
#3
11-04-2011, 05:16 AM
#4
11-04-2011, 07:47 PM
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We just added transmission fluid about 2 weeks ago - it was extremely low. I will check the filter tomorrow.
Don't know what a trans solenoid is so will check on this site about it.
As for the codes, I have no idea how to find them - I have only had this car for a couple of months and basically drive to and from work with it.
After work today I tried something that someone on your site had mentioned in another thread. I went from park to drive (with foot on brake) and left it for 15 seconds - then put it back into park - then into reverse. Seemed to work fine backing up. Don't know if that means anything but it was a suggestion by someone here.
Thanks.
Don't know what a trans solenoid is so will check on this site about it.
As for the codes, I have no idea how to find them - I have only had this car for a couple of months and basically drive to and from work with it.
After work today I tried something that someone on your site had mentioned in another thread. I went from park to drive (with foot on brake) and left it for 15 seconds - then put it back into park - then into reverse. Seemed to work fine backing up. Don't know if that means anything but it was a suggestion by someone here.
Thanks.
#5
11-05-2011, 03:02 AM
You can't just "check" the filter, but you'll probably figure that out before you read this.
Here's some stuff from the manual:
It could also be that since it is getting colder out, the fluid takes a bit longer to cycle through and build pressure in the system. I have to let mine sit in reverse for a few seconds on occasion (when it is colder out) before it'll go. 
Here's some stuff from the manual:
Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions because it allows the pump to take in air along with the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles make the fluid spongy, therefore, pressures will be low and build up slowly.
Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too high. When the transaxle has too much fluid, the gears churn up foam and cause the same conditions which occur with a low fluid level.
In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating and/or fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can interfere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator operation. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping from the transaxle vent where it may be mistaken for a leak.
Along with fluid level, it is important to check the condition of the fluid. When the fluid smells burned, and is contaminated with metal or friction material particles, a complete transaxle recondition is probably required. Be sure to examine the fluid on the dipstick closely. If there is any doubt about its condition, drain out a sample for a double check.
Mopar ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become brown. This is normal. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid change.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick fully to seal out water and dirt.
Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too high. When the transaxle has too much fluid, the gears churn up foam and cause the same conditions which occur with a low fluid level.
In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating and/or fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can interfere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator operation. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping from the transaxle vent where it may be mistaken for a leak.
Along with fluid level, it is important to check the condition of the fluid. When the fluid smells burned, and is contaminated with metal or friction material particles, a complete transaxle recondition is probably required. Be sure to examine the fluid on the dipstick closely. If there is any doubt about its condition, drain out a sample for a double check.
Mopar ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Fluid) when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition. As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become brown. This is normal. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid change.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick fully to seal out water and dirt.
#6
11-05-2011, 11:09 PM
My bad didn't realise it's hydraulic.
Slow/no reverse is a sign of poor pressure.
Reverse requires the most pressure of all gears.
Could be pump but in cases where everything is fine once hot aka hot car goes into reverse fine then likely the culprit is lipseals.
Over time they get brittle and hard and don't deal properly till heated and more "pliable"
Slow/no reverse is a sign of poor pressure.
Reverse requires the most pressure of all gears.
Could be pump but in cases where everything is fine once hot aka hot car goes into reverse fine then likely the culprit is lipseals.
Over time they get brittle and hard and don't deal properly till heated and more "pliable"
#7
11-06-2011, 02:30 AM