I got an Anchor motor mount and 2 Anchor torque struts... they were the cheapest at rockauto.com, but thats what they sell at autozone, too. I'm almost positive that I have it all aligned correctly, I marked up the factory motor mount before I took it out and put in the anchors in exactly the same place. Another thought... maybe I have the torque struts in upside down? They are pretty much symmetrical, but maybe it makes a difference? There were no arrows or anything to guide you... Also, I never replaced the transmission mount, don't know if that's the problem or not.

 

I know that the upper can be flipped, and still bolt on. I'd have to go look at mine to be able to explain it. Mine was on "backwards" and I ended up with a horrible squeaking sound from the metal insert in the torque strut rubbing against it's mount.

 

did you guys ever find a solution with the mounts? I recently did a mount, torque strut, timing belt, tensor, and water pump change on my 2003 neon SE. Everything runs smooth except for the fact that I have the rough idle at random times. It is the one that can be cured with a slight tap of the gas peddle or quick shift into neutral. I have a hard time believing that it is the mount simply because it doesn't explain why making a tiny change to the engine speed (ga or neutral) would cure it. Once you make the adjustment, you can let it idle again in drive and its fine. It seems more possible that it is one of the other suggested issues from other threads (cam position sensor, IAC, or the crazy drill a whole in the butterfly). Before I throw parts at it, I wanted to see if you guys found a situation.

BTW - I bought all my parts at Autozone.

 

I'm beginning to think it's the Anchor torque struts as well. My Neon developed the vibration after I did the timing belt, replaced the R/H engine mount and both torque struts (all Anchor). The two Neons I've flipped since then, I replaced only the torque struts. The OEM R/H mounts were good and they both had the vibration. The cars didn't run when I got them, so I don't know if they had it before or not. Before this I've been able to find good OEM torque struts at the junk yard and never had an issue with those. So, after all this, it's clear to me that Anchor mounts are cheap for a reason. As I was peeling the "Made in China" sticker off of one this morning, I was thinking we really do get what we pay for. Hoping to have this car running by the end of the day and I'm sure it will vibrate too.

 

I forgot about this thread...
Yeah, I'll be saving up a little more and buying OEM mounts when it comes time to change 'em out in another 50,000 miles with the timing belt. Looking back at my previous posts...almost 20,000 miles in exactly one year! Glad I'm still not making that 120 mile round-trip a few times a week anymore or I'd be much closer to 200,000, lol. When my motor mount was first changed out to the Anchor one, I didn't have any vibrations for the first 20 miles or so, but then it came back. I'm thinking I'll also be removing the torque strut inserts as well to further reduce any vibrations.

 

I did some experimenting with a new Anchor torque strut today, rather than throwing it away. I drilled three holes through the rubber insert trying to "soften" it and it actually worked. I put it on the car, went for a drive with lots of stop lights and most of the vibration was gone. The idle still dropped down, but very little vibration. I had already picked up a good OEM one at the junkyard yesterday, but I think I'm going to leave this one on for now. I took a picture of it, but can't figure out how to post it here. Sorry, I'm not tech savvy.

 

I also had this same issue where I was forced to switch into neutral to work-around that embarrassing vibration. I replaced a couple of engine mounts with those cheap rubber ones and it sorta helped, but the mounts soon tore again. I decided to replace my entire transmission for about 750 including labor, and it resolved the vibration issue. I believe the idle vibrations may be caused by some sort of transmission mount. The car still vibrates noticeably more than it did compared to when it had 12k miles, but this may be due to the engine mounts I have yet to replace. I bought some after-market mounts and plan to replace them in about a month. Hopefully this will have my car riding like it did when it was new. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

sadly mopar mounts are the way to go, aint cheap but I hate vibration & cheap mounts that crap out in 4 months... might as well just use solid torque struts & mopar mounts this late in the game... hard driving flexes them, oil & summer driving temp deteriorates them & eventually tear

my cabrio still has the same mounts, like new... just odd lookin german things too

 

Yea, I just did my mounts too. Car still vibrates and forum told me to use OEM. I was looking at these and should have gotten them instead of DEA or anchor (China).
http://www.deyemeracing.com/products.asp

 

1. If you used Mopar mounts and the car still vibrates, it's likely one of the alignments wasn't done correctly. I've yet to hear of vibration problems when using Mopar mounts.
2. If you think the vibrations are bad now with whatever mounts you have in there, you are highly mistaken if you think racing mounts will make it better.