2nd Gen Neon 2000 - 2005 2nd Gen Neon

Greetings from UK - Neon Problem

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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 11:43 AM
  #21  
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Thats my thoughts to be honest with you. Having tried loads of auto shops thats a product you can only get in the states. Its not sold here in the UK unfortunately. Is there anyway I can get the valve to unstick so I can at least see if it will venture into 3rd gear at any time. Because at the moment I cannot get 3rd no matter what I try and do.

I am tempted to remove the cap off the input speed sensor, stick a volt meter on it and see what happens. If I rev the engine I am assuming I should see some changes in the resistance or the voltage. If anything if its open circuit that be my culprit right there. I took the air box off this afternoon and its really easy to get to. I can get the part shipped to me in 48 hours but its not a cheap part at £50+20% tax.

Originally Posted by brhodes
I don't think there's anything wrong with your speed sensors, honestly. I'm beginning to think either your governor valve is sticking or you have a servo that's sticking.

Don't spend any more money having tests done, or replacing anything.

You have a low mileage 2001 vehicle that's spent alot of time sitting and waiting to be used, and this isn't good for valves and servos in automatic transmissions.

Please, try that Trans-X, or Lucal Oil transmission additive, or something similar to it and see if it helps. Your transmission is NOT worn out or damaged, I'm almost certain of it, I think it's just not seen enough use.
 

Last edited by mintminty59; Nov 14, 2011 at 11:47 AM. Reason: .
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 12:48 PM
  #22  
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The only other way I can think of to "unstick" something in the valve body would be to pull the valve body and do it by hand...it's a couple of hours work and pretty messy. Tranny fluid will be everywhere....you'll use 1/2 a bottle of shampoo to get your head clean

Try calling these folks and see if they know where you can buy some of their tranny additive in the UK. http://www.lucasoil.co.uk/
 
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 01:28 PM
  #23  
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I can buy that direct from them which is cool. The transmition fix solution. I am going to try and get a speed sensor from an old vehicle in scrap yard just to try it. Nothing ventured nothing gained I suppose and I will try the trans fix stuff. If I remove the pan how much fluid do you think I am likely to lose. As the trans fix uses about 700ml on top of what is already in there so I think it needs less. I just wish there was a sure way to test the gear on the car without another £80 diagnostics.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 03:00 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by mintminty59
Its ok the blink is 5 5 which means no codes found for the engine. Its a good sign it does not blink when driving only when you switch on the ignition using the 3 on off trick.
Ah, OK.

Onto the codes. These are for the 4-speed electronic transmission:

Code P0733(53) - Excludes geartrain failures which should be obvious upon disassembly.
> If code P0944(35) is also set, follow diagnostic procedure for code P0944(35) first
> Failed or slipping OD clutch - may also set code P0734(54)
– OD and Reverse inner and outer lip seal leakage (usually hard code)
– Sticky OD accumulator seals (intermittent)
– Worn reaction shaft support seal rings (hard code at heavy throttle)
– Broken OD/UD tapered snap ring - (hard code at heavy throttle)
> Failed or intermittent slipping UD clutch - may also set code P0731(51) and/or P0732(52)
– UD seal leakage (intermittent)
– Worn input clutch hub bushing (hard code at heavy throttle)
– Sticky UD accumulator seals (intermittent)
– Worn reaction shaft support seal rings (hard code at heavy throttle)
– Solenoid pack (UD pressure in 4th gear)

Code P0734(54) - Excludes geartrain failures which should be obvious upon disassembly.
> If code P0944(35) is also set, follow diagnostic procedure for code P0944(35) first
> Failed or slipping OD clutch - may also set code P0733(53)
– OD and Reverse inner and outer lip seal leakage (usually hard code)
– Sticky OD accumulator seals (intermittent)
– Worn reaction shaft support seal rings (hard code at heavy throttle)
– Broken OD/UD tapered snap ring - (hard code at heavy throttle)
> Failed or slipping 2/4 clutch - may also set code P0732(52)
– 2/4 seal leakage (intermittent)
– Sticky accumulator seals (intermittent)
 
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 03:03 PM
  #25  
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You'll lose all fluid except what's in the torque converter, probably 7 or 8 quarts...not really a good idea to re-use it, either. Hard to keep it clean when you're pulling the pan, honestly.

The more I think about it, the more I come to believe that you won't be pulling the pan anyway, that the additive might fix the problem you have. I think if it were a speed sensor, it wouldn't shift right at all, not just between 2 and 3.

As for further diagnostics, 80 pounds is too much, I don't blame you. Seems to me that if they charged you once already, they should've already told you exactly what the computer says is wrong. I'd hold off on that until after you try the Lucas oil stuff and drive it a little to see what happens.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 06:52 PM
  #26  
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Yea those codes dont sound good at all. But VERY helpfull. Looks like it wont be a simple fix afterall. Seems really bad its failed so early on in its life. I think before I order any parts I will order that gearbox stuff stick some petrol in and try a slow 5 mile drive. Because it only does 30 mph it might take a while. If that solution does sort the problem I think it will be a very short lived affair if those error codes are anything to go by.

So other than the solution what else could I possible try that might be cheap.

Originally Posted by brhodes
You'll lose all fluid except what's in the torque converter, probably 7 or 8 quarts...not really a good idea to re-use it, either. Hard to keep it clean when you're pulling the pan, honestly.

The more I think about it, the more I come to believe that you won't be pulling the pan anyway, that the additive might fix the problem you have. I think if it were a speed sensor, it wouldn't shift right at all, not just between 2 and 3.

As for further diagnostics, 80 pounds is too much, I don't blame you. Seems to me that if they charged you once already, they should've already told you exactly what the computer says is wrong. I'd hold off on that until after you try the Lucas oil stuff and drive it a little to see what happens.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 06:54 PM
  #27  
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Reading between those lines, it would appear to be the OD Clutch which is the common thing. Not sure what it means by Hard Code tho. If I can get the gearbox back into normal operation with the fluid, will the limp mode clear itself or will I need to have this reset at a cost of £80

Originally Posted by darthroush
Ah, OK.

Onto the codes. These are for the 4-speed electronic transmission:

Code P0733(53) - Excludes geartrain failures which should be obvious upon disassembly.
> If code P0944(35) is also set, follow diagnostic procedure for code P0944(35) first
> Failed or slipping OD clutch - may also set code P0734(54)
– OD and Reverse inner and outer lip seal leakage (usually hard code)
– Sticky OD accumulator seals (intermittent)
– Worn reaction shaft support seal rings (hard code at heavy throttle)
– Broken OD/UD tapered snap ring - (hard code at heavy throttle)
> Failed or intermittent slipping UD clutch - may also set code P0731(51) and/or P0732(52)
– UD seal leakage (intermittent)
– Worn input clutch hub bushing (hard code at heavy throttle)
– Sticky UD accumulator seals (intermittent)
– Worn reaction shaft support seal rings (hard code at heavy throttle)
– Solenoid pack (UD pressure in 4th gear)

Code P0734(54) - Excludes geartrain failures which should be obvious upon disassembly.
> If code P0944(35) is also set, follow diagnostic procedure for code P0944(35) first
> Failed or slipping OD clutch - may also set code P0733(53)
– OD and Reverse inner and outer lip seal leakage (usually hard code)
– Sticky OD accumulator seals (intermittent)
– Worn reaction shaft support seal rings (hard code at heavy throttle)
– Broken OD/UD tapered snap ring - (hard code at heavy throttle)
> Failed or slipping 2/4 clutch - may also set code P0732(52)
– 2/4 seal leakage (intermittent)
– Sticky accumulator seals (intermittent)
 

Last edited by mintminty59; Nov 14, 2011 at 06:57 PM. Reason: .
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 07:54 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mintminty59
Reading between those lines, it would appear to be the OD Clutch which is the common thing. Not sure what it means by Hard Code tho. If I can get the gearbox back into normal operation with the fluid, will the limp mode clear itself or will I need to have this reset at a cost of £80
It should clear itself eventually, but if the solution fixes it, the symptoms will disappear straight away.

Really, Minty, I've looked at those codes and if your tranny had 150,000 miles, I'd start thinking mechanical (clutches, etc.) but I'm really hung on thinking it's just from not being driven often enough and seals drying, valves/servos/solenoids sticking, that sort of thing. I've never seen a transmission develop serious mechanical issues with such low mileage unless seriously abused.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 08:04 PM
  #29  
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I have found a local dealer of Lucas Oil, and I hope it has the transmition fix solution. What I will do is a video on youtube tommorow of me driving the car so you can see in its glory whats happening with the car.

Originally Posted by brhodes
It should clear itself eventually, but if the solution fixes it, the symptoms will disappear straight away.

Really, Minty, I've looked at those codes and if your tranny had 150,000 miles, I'd start thinking mechanical (clutches, etc.) but I'm really hung on thinking it's just from not being driven often enough and seals drying, valves/servos/solenoids sticking, that sort of thing. I've never seen a transmission develop serious mechanical issues with such low mileage unless seriously abused.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 08:21 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mintminty59
I have found a local dealer of Lucas Oil, and I hope it has the transmition fix solution. What I will do is a video on youtube tommorow of me driving the car so you can see in its glory whats happening with the car.

Excellent, very glad to hear you've found a local dealer, and look forward to your video. I also want to tell you that it may take more than 4 or 5 miles for the stuff to "do it's job". As I recall, I drove my Suburban maybe 15 or 20 miles before it started shifting normally. The difference with it was that it had no trouble making it to high gear, it was just a sticky valve causing it to shift poorly. If it were mine, I'd be patient, and maybe take it on several drives, giving it awhile between each, so the Lucas stuff can work.

Just so you know, I've been doing my own mechanic work for around 30 years, and have had pretty broad experience with almost every problem you can imagine. I tell you this so you understand that I'm not just taking a shot in the dark, I'm basing my opinion on a great deal of knowledge and experience. It may turn out that I'm wrong, of course, but it may happen that I'm exactly right, too, and if I am....well, I think we'll both be happy that you've saved an assload of money

P.S.
I'm surprised you're still awake, pretty late there isn't it?
 
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