Okay well I know that an SRT 4 motor would have more power and such coming out of it. I am going to be having a kid throughout the next year and I am looking to go semi cheap, but still getting some power. I have to option and I wanted to see what people thought would be a better idea. Leave your thoughts.

First off I have a 2001 Dodge Neon R/T...

First option is that I get a crate motor for a stock 2001 R/T and put a turbo, computer chip, exhaust, intercooler, air intake things such as that.

Second option is that I do an SRT 4 swap on it. Get more power out of it and do basically everything the same just with an SRT 4 motor instead.

Now I know the second one sounds cheaper, but I am not to sure how cheap I can get the SRT 4 motor or the Crate motor for. Basically at this point I am looking for prices and trying to figure out what the better option would be in this situation.

Please respond on what you think...

 

let me throw in my 2 cents ... I'd go with the SRT-4 swap, it's cheaper to pick up a donor car than the R/T with the add on turbo. Donor car has everything you need right there. brake upgrade wiring, cpu, interior etc. besides what ever you don't use you can always sell off the parts and try to get some money that you put into the project. here's a site to give you ideas ... http://www.salvageautosauction.com/m...TkVPTiBTUlQtNA

also for another idea as to swaps I also found this

And don’t forget the Neon. Dodge and Plymouth dealers sold more than 6000 copies of the original performance-tuned Neon ACR, so the boneyards should be ripe for the picking. A crunched Neon ACR could be the ultimate source for performance parts for a standard-issue car; even the ECU alone will help. The 1994-’95 ACR engine controllers don’t have any speed governor, while the 1996-and-up part will at least allow top speeds of 118 mph. Unfortunately, the ECU boxes are specific to each year, meaning a 1997 controller won’t work in a 1995 car.
If you’re looking for an improved intake, grab the 1995 air horn. It offers the best performance along with a nice honk. The heavy-duty radiator found in the ACR can help lower coolant temperatures, but it’s not always a bolt-in affair on cars with air conditioning.
The first-generation Neon came in both single- and twin-cam guises, and running the twin-cam muffler on a single-cam car can increase performance a bit while offering a more rumbly exhaust note. Additionally, the factory 1994-’95 SOHC camshaft offers a couple more horsepower and a few more lb.-ft. torque than the later cams due to some additional overlap.
The ACR also received a different transaxle, one featuring a sporty 3.94:1 final drive along with a .81:1 fifth gear. The Neon Sport also received a 3.94:1 final drive, but features a steeper .72:1 fifth gear. (This could be a better alternative for highway cruising.)
The 1994-’96 ACRs came with performance-valved Arvin struts, but the Konis found on the 1997-’99 cars are more desirable and can be purchased used for very fair prices. While you’re grabbing the ACR struts, take the heavy-duty hubs and knuckles as well (10.2mm hub flange vs. 8.2mm). These hubs also require longer wheel studs.
The ACR was designed for autocross and road racing use, so the anti-roll bars—22mm front and 16mm rear—would be a nice score. They’re also compatible with the Arvin and Koni struts. The first-generation ACR and Sport models came with a quick 16:1 steering rack.
The ACR also came with beefier, non-ABS brakes featuring four-wheel discs and an appropriately sized 22.2mm master cylinder and master cylinder booster. (A "BRD" decal on the booster is a good way to tell that you have found the right parts.) Speaking of brakes, the 1998-and-up four-wheel-disc-equipped cars—ACR or not—feature beefier calipers and rotors.
If a 2.0-liter Neon doesn’t offer enough get up and go, the twin-cam, 2.4-liter engine from a Stratus ES or PT Cruiser can be installed. Yes, it’s a possible—and fairly common—swap, but it’s not a straight drop in and go. First of all, you’ll want to lower the engine crank centerline about 1 inch in the bay, chiefly by modifying the front and driver’s side engine mounts, passenger-side adapter plate (the mount itself may not need to be modified), and the rear bobble strut. Lowering the engine will allow a "power bulge" hood to clear.
You’ll need to use 2.0 DOHC intake and exhaust manifolds, since the PT, Stratus and minivan manifolds generally won’t fit. Additionally, the accessory pulleys may need to be spaced slightly differently since the 2.4 is a balance-shaft engine, and the oil pump, crank snout and other things are in slightly different arrangements from the 2.0. An aftermarket crank pulley could help things there.
The wiring and ignition for the 2.4 are different from the 2.0, so there would need to be some changes to these systems as well. Also expect to notch, grind, and generally adapt brackets, fittings and sensors to clear here and there throughout the process.


This info came from Grassroots Motorsports ... the link to site ... http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/junkyard-jam/

 

I think the average SRT swap is around $3,500. A turbo kit, Megasquirt, and exhaust will cost that if you did it to your R/T as it sits. I would do the SRT swap because the bottom end is already built for boost, you can use the SRT computer and get a handheld tuner for it, and it will make more power psi for psi than a 2.0.