2nd Gen Neon 2000 - 2005 2nd Gen Neon

2 Brand New Mounts Installed

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  #11  
Old 11-09-2012, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by darthroush
Those will be worse, vibration wise, than the aftermarket mounts.
Semi-hijack of thread:

What mount is the one next to the timing belt?

I have the upper (which bolts up right to/by the passenger side strut tower mount, just ordered the lower (which is longer than the upper mount):
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Then apparently across from those mounts is the tranny mount on the driver side under the battery holder.

And finally there's a center mount which I'm assuming is the one right next to the timing belt.. is that correct? And do you know what the mopar# is?

Is it the: 05086709AB (Rear Engine Mount)?
 
  #12  
Old 11-09-2012, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by illriginalized
Semi-hijack of thread:

What mount is the one next to the timing belt?

I have the upper (which bolts up right to/by the passenger side strut tower mount, just ordered the lower (which is longer than the upper mount):


Then apparently across from those mounts is the tranny mount on the driver side under the battery holder.

And finally there's a center mount which I'm assuming is the one right next to the timing belt.. is that correct? And do you know what the mopar# is?

Is it the: 05086709AB (Rear Engine Mount)?
Yes, the center mount next to the timing belt is the engine mount. It is hard to see. You need to support the engine before you remove this mount.
 
  #13  
Old 11-10-2012, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cheapez
Yes, the center mount next to the timing belt is the engine mount. It is hard to see. You need to support the engine before you remove this mount.
Alright cool.. just found an awesome deal for OEM

I'm guessing that in order to do the timing belt you have to loosen up the mounts (especially the center / rear mount to remove it) in order to access the belts. If that's the case, then surely my mechanic wouldn't charge me that much more just to replace top, center, and bottom.
 
  #14  
Old 11-10-2012, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by illriginalized
Alright cool.. just found an awesome deal for OEM

I'm guessing that in order to do the timing belt you have to loosen up the mounts (especially the center / rear mount to remove it) in order to access the belts. If that's the case, then surely my mechanic wouldn't charge me that much more just to replace top, center, and bottom.
I guess it will save you some money if you replace the timing belt at the time you replace the engine mount. To replace the timing belt, your mechanic would have to remove the engine mount, and engine bracket. Replaced the two torque struts were easy, but replaced the engine mount was harder for me (took me a lot longer to replace it). I say your mechanic is already half way there by just removed the engine mount.

Replace the timing belt on some cars is easier than replacing the timing belt on other cars.
I think my mechanic charged me $270 or more to replaced the timing belt on a Camry. Now I look at it, I don't think he had to removed the engine mount.
 

Last edited by cheapez; 11-10-2012 at 08:35 AM.
  #15  
Old 11-10-2012, 08:28 AM
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You should replace the water pump too.
 
  #16  
Old 11-10-2012, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by cheapez
You should replace the water pump too.
Yeah my mechanic in about two weeks will be doing:

Timing belt, belt tensioner, water pump, upper/lower torque strut mounts, and engine mount.

And I just discovered that I possibly have a rear main seal leak. So joooooy! lol... a car I got for free, only to pretty much have payments on it (that is, buying parts and having a mechanic work on it on a weekly basis).

At least my new camshaft position sensor + magnet fixed my P0433 CEL error
 
  #17  
Old 11-11-2012, 03:19 PM
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The engine mount is the last thing to come off of the car before the timing belt cover is removed. It should cost nothing to have the engine mount and accessory belt tensioner pulley R&R'd since both have to come out/off anyways. I think the lower torque strut comes off, and the top torque strut IMO should also cost nothing to change as it is two bolts and probably takes a total of about 5 minutes to replace.

Optimally, you will have the following items replaced: timing belt, tensioner, water pump, cam seal, crank seal, accessory belt tensioner pulley, engine mount and accessory belts if it's about time.
 
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by darthroush
The engine mount is the last thing to come off of the car before the timing belt cover is removed. It should cost nothing to have the engine mount and accessory belt tensioner pulley R&R'd since both have to come out/off anyways. I think the lower torque strut comes off, and the top torque strut IMO should also cost nothing to change as it is two bolts and probably takes a total of about 5 minutes to replace.

Optimally, you will have the following items replaced: timing belt, tensioner, water pump, cam seal, crank seal, accessory belt tensioner pulley, engine mount and accessory belts if it's about time.
Is the crank seal on the passenger side considered to be the, "rear main"? And accessory belts, there's a belt tensioner for that as well? I might as well get the belts + tensioner wheel if that's the case.

lulz Guess I should do the alternator belt too. Going with all Gates Racing belts.
 

Last edited by illriginalized; 11-12-2012 at 12:27 PM.
  #19  
Old 11-12-2012, 03:11 PM
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Yes, a crankshaft seal is generally considered to be the rear main seal. There is a belt tensioner, but it is built into the engine support plate and cannot be swapped out. If the tensioner itself goes bad, you have to get a new support plate. The pulley can be swapped out easily enough though.
 
  #20  
Old 11-12-2012, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by darthroush
Yes, a crankshaft seal is generally considered to be the rear main seal. There is a belt tensioner, but it is built into the engine support plate and cannot be swapped out. If the tensioner itself goes bad, you have to get a new support plate. The pulley can be swapped out easily enough though.
Ok to clarify (promise no more off topic-ness after this).

When you say, "belt tensioner" you mean the arm (which I think moves and is spring loaded), right? And the pulley which can be swapped out is bolted onto the arm.
 


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