2nd Gen Neon 2000 - 2005 2nd Gen Neon

Advice: Lower control arms, motor mounts, sway bar links need replaced...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 11:07 PM
  #1  
MandySXT's Avatar
MandySXT
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Default Advice: Lower control arms, motor mounts, sway bar links need replaced...

I have a 2005 Dodge Neon SXT that just hit 75,000 miles. A year ago, I got my car serviced and was told I needed to replace my lower control arms, sway bar links, and my motor mounts (not sure if it's all or just some). They said it could wait, but not too long.

A year has passed, I had to get other things fixed during this time so they got swept under the rug. My front end is feeling a bit clunky so I know it's time. The only issue is I've been given estimates from a few places including a dealership, a small mechanic shop, and a personal mechanic willing to do it under the table. All asking between $800-$1200.

I'm a college student, so as much as I love my car I also need the money. Any advice on if I can get these parts cheaper on my own, or if I'm screwed and need to shell out the money? If I can get them on my own, where would I? I wasn't sure how much I should expect in labor even if I can get the parts cheaper.

Any experience with these issues is much appreciated!

Thanks for any help!
 
Reply
Old Apr 22, 2013 | 04:04 AM
  #2  
darthroush's Avatar
darthroush
Section Moderator
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Northern California
Default

If you are replacing the middle motor mount, that's where ~$300-$400 of that is coming from alone. The add in the upper and lower mounts. Lower control arms are probably costing about the same as shops just replace the whole control arm as the bushings are pressed in. The sway bar links are a very quick, inexpensive job. Labor is what makes things expensive. I'd just do one thing at a time for now. In my opinion, I'd do things in this order:
  1. replace control arms and sway bar end links (you are really replacing the bushings and lower ball joint)
  2. replace torque struts (the upper and lower motor mounts) if they need to be. The motor mount goes bad rather quickly after the torque struts do, so if they are recommending all three mounts be changed, I'd guess the torque struts are indeed bad also.
  3. replace motor mount (center mount) when you change your timing belt, water pump, tensioner and camshaft/crankshaft seals at 100,000 miles. The labor is going to be just about the exact same as the motor mount is the last thing to come out before the timing belt, water pump, etc. No point in paying ~$300-$400 labor twice in 25,000 miles.
As for the cost of parts, I'd just get a list from the shop(s) and take them into local parts stores and see what the difference is. I highly recommend the engine mount be Dodge though; not aftermarket.
 
Reply
Old Apr 25, 2013 | 09:15 AM
  #3  
packfan88's Avatar
packfan88
Amateur
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Default

darth

when you say do the control arms as a whole unit you mean buy the ones that have the control arm bushings and ball joints already installed?

on rockauto they sell a brand...... I knwo Moog to be a quality brand. Ive done a Camaro front end in it.

what about Dorman or Mevotech?

The sell these
DORMAN Part # 520323 More Info {#5272237, 5272237AB, 5272237AC, 5272237AE, 5272237AF, 5272237AK, 5272237AM, WC110323}
Includes Ball Joint and Bushings; Front Left Lower
for $42
i have ahsop press so taking out/putting in ball joints and bushings isnt a big deal for me. but if its close in price an di can save myself a few hours i would.
 
Attached Images    

Last edited by packfan88; Apr 25, 2013 at 11:31 AM.
Reply
Old Apr 25, 2013 | 03:38 PM
  #4  
TejasMtnBiker's Avatar
TejasMtnBiker
Captain
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
Default

I think it's better to just add in the black poly bushings and not go with the cheap rubber moog stuff, takes a lil longer to get the rubber off the bushing but well worth the effort. A can of PB penetrating oil will make the removal easier if limited with tools ( shop bench vise & large sockets to push out the old) Took me maybe 2 hours to do the front completely.. at 75k might as well do the inner tie rods too they are cheap an easy to r&r as it will really tighten the feel when driving... if you have time clean the grease they come with out and apply/fill marine wheel bearing grease as it resists water when the boots go bad

wish I had a shop press!
 
Reply
Old Apr 25, 2013 | 05:45 PM
  #5  
darthroush's Avatar
darthroush
Section Moderator
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Northern California
Default

Originally Posted by packfan88
darth

when you say do the control arms as a whole unit you mean buy the ones that have the control arm bushings and ball joints already installed?
If you are having a shop do the labor, generally yes. If you can do it yourself, get some Moog ball joints and Prothane Poly Bushings. Make sure to lube the heck out of the bushings (any poly bushings).
 
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 08:32 PM
  #6  
packfan88's Avatar
packfan88
Amateur
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Default

I would do it myself. This isnt my only means of transportation so even if it took me a while to do it im cool with it.

I rebuilt the front end of a Camaro in 2011 and did a bunch of research on poly bushings back then. Wasnt worth it to me then and not sure it is now. That car had original bushings. Rubber of course.
The poly bushings were more money than Moog and were know to squeek enough that people drilled/tapped and put zerk fittings on them cause when they went over a speed bump in a parking lot it drew the eyes of everyone in a bad way. And if the rubber lasted 30 years on that car, Im guessing rubber car last 5 on this car. I like Moog. I think its a $13 part or a $35 part? Summitracing or am i looking at the wrong part.

Tejas ...i have a shop press (harbor freight jobber). it worked well for that camaro. I have it taken apart in a storage bin with countless other types of tools. Would that have made it easier? It sure did on the bushings and ball joints of that chevy.
 
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 10:58 PM
  #7  
darthroush's Avatar
darthroush
Section Moderator
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Northern California
Default

The ball joint, that is a bit of a PITA and time-consuming to change, is indeed inexpensive.
The tie-rod end that takes about 10 minutes to change, is expensive.
 
Reply
Old Jul 7, 2013 | 01:35 AM
  #8  
MandySXT's Avatar
MandySXT
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Default

Sorry for just now responding to such an old topic. Just wanted to thank darthroush for the awesome advice (as always), I ended up finding a guy that rebuilds cars through some family friends that is extremely reliable, thorough, and wanted to help me out. He did all of the work that was needed for $700 for everything. My car is now riding amazing again! I'm proud to drive my Neon again, haha.
 
Reply
Old Jul 7, 2013 | 04:55 AM
  #9  
darthroush's Avatar
darthroush
Section Moderator
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Northern California
Default

You're welcome! Glad to hear the Neon is up and running! It looks good!
 
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:58 AM.