2000 Dodge Neon Won't turn Over
Neon won't turn over. Battery is good. Absolutely nothing happens when I turn the ignition switch, nothing at all. Is it a fusible link, neutral safety switch or maybe a relay??? Any help is appreciated very much.
yes I have power to everything (lights, radio, power windows, etc.). and I have no idea how many wires are on the neutral safety switch, I just mention it because friends have suggested that as a possibility.
Check the in cabin/dash fuse panel, fuse #10/15 amp.
EDIT: If it's blown, we can't query the computer for trouble codes.
7 items are fed off this fuse, 6 through a under hood splice. If any one of these items are shorted to ground, or other wise drawing too much current & blow this fuse, it'll kill power to the computer controlled start circuit & the starter won't crank the engine, fuel pump won't run, but we'll have power to the dash, lights, ect. EDIT: Here is a link to finding the wiring pictorial for this circuit. http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/n...000/EPL_8W.pdf Scroll down to page 8W-11-11 to find what is fed off dash fuse #10.
Of the 7 items fed off this fuse, 3 are relays, 4 are directly wired, so it's not easy to trouble shoot this circuit if it's a short to ground problem.
EDIT: If this fuse isn't blown, use your ELM scan tool, or code reader to query the computer for trouble codes & post up All pending, or set trouble code clue Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot, let us know what you find.
EDIT: If it's blown, we can't query the computer for trouble codes.
7 items are fed off this fuse, 6 through a under hood splice. If any one of these items are shorted to ground, or other wise drawing too much current & blow this fuse, it'll kill power to the computer controlled start circuit & the starter won't crank the engine, fuel pump won't run, but we'll have power to the dash, lights, ect. EDIT: Here is a link to finding the wiring pictorial for this circuit. http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/n...000/EPL_8W.pdf Scroll down to page 8W-11-11 to find what is fed off dash fuse #10.
Of the 7 items fed off this fuse, 3 are relays, 4 are directly wired, so it's not easy to trouble shoot this circuit if it's a short to ground problem.
EDIT: If this fuse isn't blown, use your ELM scan tool, or code reader to query the computer for trouble codes & post up All pending, or set trouble code clue Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot, let us know what you find.
Last edited by paw paw; Aug 7, 2016 at 10:45 AM.
switch has 3 wires.. here's a link to a photo
http://s365.photobucket.com/user/Ind...tch-3.jpg.html
the the wires/plus is damaged they sell a replacement at autozone if you find this to be the culprit
http://s365.photobucket.com/user/Ind...tch-3.jpg.html
the the wires/plus is damaged they sell a replacement at autozone if you find this to be the culprit
To Paw Paw, the fuse is good. I will borrow a code reader from a neighbor and post the results in an additional post.
To TejasMtnBiker, I don't think it is the neutral safety switch. I tried the trans in neutral and still don't get it to do anything when I turn the key.
To TejasMtnBiker, I don't think it is the neutral safety switch. I tried the trans in neutral and still don't get it to do anything when I turn the key.
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OK, too bad no trouble code clues were stored, But that in & of itself tells us that the problem is likely something that the computer isn't monitoring.
SO, lets think about this some more. You posted, "Neon won't turn over. Battery is good. Absolutely nothing happens when I turn the ignition switch, nothing at all."
When you turn the ignition switch to & pause at "On", before cranking the engine, do all the dash warning lights come on & go through their self check???
Do the head & dash lights remain bright when you turn the head lights on???
When you go to start, to crank the engine, do the head lights get really dim, or go out??
When you say the battery is good, how was it tested to determine it's good??? Was a hydrometer specific gravity test performed on each cell, or was an under load voltage drop test performed across the battery posts, then across the battery cable clamps???
If all that was ok, then seeing that #10 fuse isn't blown & it isn't if the scan tool, or code reader is able to link up & query the computer, then did this problem come about suddenly after some event, or have you been having intermittent no crank problems that have come about slowly over time???
SO, lets think about this some more. You posted, "Neon won't turn over. Battery is good. Absolutely nothing happens when I turn the ignition switch, nothing at all."
When you turn the ignition switch to & pause at "On", before cranking the engine, do all the dash warning lights come on & go through their self check???
Do the head & dash lights remain bright when you turn the head lights on???
When you go to start, to crank the engine, do the head lights get really dim, or go out??
When you say the battery is good, how was it tested to determine it's good??? Was a hydrometer specific gravity test performed on each cell, or was an under load voltage drop test performed across the battery posts, then across the battery cable clamps???
If all that was ok, then seeing that #10 fuse isn't blown & it isn't if the scan tool, or code reader is able to link up & query the computer, then did this problem come about suddenly after some event, or have you been having intermittent no crank problems that have come about slowly over time???
paw paw,
I'll reply to the last question first, "...did this problem come about suddenly after some event, or have you been having intermittent no crank problems that have come about slowly over time???"
First thing to happen was a battery warning light coming on while driving to work. It started fine again after work and again the next day. The next time I tried starting it.....nothing.
If I turn the switch to on, without attempting to start, the dash lights come on and go through their self check. Headlights are bright and do NOT dim when I turn the key to start.
Battery was NOT tested with a hydrometer. I simply tested the voltage at the posts and clamps. Based on that and the bright headlights I 'assumed' the battery was good.


