Turbo
#31
RE: Turbo
HEy I love the srt-8 myself but for being 18 I don't think that is quite in my budget yet. Any car can beat any car if you do enough to it.LOL. Dodge ppl need to stick together to fight all the foreign rubbermaid cars that bounce there way onto our beaches. American all the way.
#32
RE: Turbo
well 03 r/t crap started it by flaming auto turbos so like almost every srt owner I guess r/t owners think they high and mighty and well I think srt8s do rule most 5 speeds especailly stangs. Im a mopar rebal but I also respect the evos and stis and wrxs pretty nice rides and I love ford trucks.
#34
RE: Turbo
I know I am bringing up an old thread but I think it left a fairly important topic unanswered: the endurance of turbo'd automatics.
Quite simply, in stock form, a 5 speed manual is WAY more efficient that a 3 or 4 speed automatic because: 1) 5 is a larger number than 4 or 3, more gears can more efficiently handle the power, 2) a manual transmission is fully mechanical, automatic uses the torque converter (a fluid coupling=power loss) and contains more complex gearing setups, losing more power to friction.
Lets compare side by side a run of the quarter mile. Let's say we have two identical Neons, same HP, different trannies. In the MTX, the engine is fighting against the weight of the car, friction (with air and ground), and drivetrain losses. Someone posted that the MTX loses 15%, we'll use that number for our example. The ATX is fighting the weight of the car, friction and 30% drivetrain losses.
When the light turns green, both drivers hit the gas. The MTX not only will accelerate faster because it has more WHP but the engine will not have to work as hard as the ATX.
All things being equal, running the two cars exactly the same amount and type of driving, the ATX engine would fail sooner, because it worked harder all the time.
Does this mean that an ATX turbo is not reliable? NO. It can be perfectly reliable, but under repeated hard driving it will incur more stress than the MTX. It's just that simple.
As a rule of thumb, unless you can afford one of those fancy F1 racing gearboxes, the MTX is for racing, the ATX is for comfort. Racing such as drag racing and Nascar are exceptions. In drag racing it is impossible to shift quick enough to be competitive with a manual, therefore HEAVILY modified ATXs are used. In Nascar and those kinds of racing, speed changes are relatively minimal, ATXs work fine. Any driving involving rapid and often acceleration and deceleration, the MTX is best.
Quite simply, in stock form, a 5 speed manual is WAY more efficient that a 3 or 4 speed automatic because: 1) 5 is a larger number than 4 or 3, more gears can more efficiently handle the power, 2) a manual transmission is fully mechanical, automatic uses the torque converter (a fluid coupling=power loss) and contains more complex gearing setups, losing more power to friction.
Lets compare side by side a run of the quarter mile. Let's say we have two identical Neons, same HP, different trannies. In the MTX, the engine is fighting against the weight of the car, friction (with air and ground), and drivetrain losses. Someone posted that the MTX loses 15%, we'll use that number for our example. The ATX is fighting the weight of the car, friction and 30% drivetrain losses.
When the light turns green, both drivers hit the gas. The MTX not only will accelerate faster because it has more WHP but the engine will not have to work as hard as the ATX.
All things being equal, running the two cars exactly the same amount and type of driving, the ATX engine would fail sooner, because it worked harder all the time.
Does this mean that an ATX turbo is not reliable? NO. It can be perfectly reliable, but under repeated hard driving it will incur more stress than the MTX. It's just that simple.
As a rule of thumb, unless you can afford one of those fancy F1 racing gearboxes, the MTX is for racing, the ATX is for comfort. Racing such as drag racing and Nascar are exceptions. In drag racing it is impossible to shift quick enough to be competitive with a manual, therefore HEAVILY modified ATXs are used. In Nascar and those kinds of racing, speed changes are relatively minimal, ATXs work fine. Any driving involving rapid and often acceleration and deceleration, the MTX is best.
#35
RE: Turbo
ORIGINAL: AirWolf
well 03 r/t crap started it by flaming auto turbos so like almost every srt owner I guess r/t owners think they high and mighty and well I think srt8s do rule most 5 speeds especailly stangs. Im a mopar rebal but I also respect the evos and stis and wrxs pretty nice rides and I love ford trucks.
well 03 r/t crap started it by flaming auto turbos so like almost every srt owner I guess r/t owners think they high and mighty and well I think srt8s do rule most 5 speeds especailly stangs. Im a mopar rebal but I also respect the evos and stis and wrxs pretty nice rides and I love ford trucks.
#36
RE: Turbo
Yeah I watched a show the other day where they took a brand new Ford F-150 and did a bunch of mods to get 400 HP out of it, and I just laughed, because my dad's Hemi Ram 1500 came with 350 HP stock. lol I have driven every domestic brand of truck and nothing compares with a Dodge.
#38
#40
RE: Turbo
This thread is funny as hell!!!
There sure is alot of mis-imformation flying around in here. The only post in here that any good info is timplett's post. Its seems to me that most of you have heard something from your friends unckles dog's sister and posting here with no actual idea as to if it is fact. Then you all bicker back and forth about it.
I'd love to pick apart each post, but i don't have time... unfortunatly i'm at work.
Bottom line:
~5 lbs will not beat an SRT-4 even if it is stock... (unless the driver is real bad)
~5 lbs or 8 lbs has nothing to do with a motor breaking.
~torque blows up motors
~a bad tune will blow up a motor even at 2 lbs
~ATX does not mean a blown up motor. Maybe a blown up tranny, but not a motor...
I've run 10-11 lbs for 5000 hard miles, before i moved, producing 244 pounds of wheel torque... with no issues. My MBC decide to go wacky on me one week and i made many pulls at 14psi on a stock block. My AF were good so i played a bit... It went back to 10 that same day, didn't want to push my luck. Motor didn't blow though... 10lbs felt slow after that night.
3 words for motor longevity...
Tune, Tune, Tune
I don't mean to sound like a d1ck... you all are gonna have a real hard time if you don't research yourself. These forums are filled with crap. (not just this one) Take the info you find here and other places and do your own research. Use info from people that have done it, not people you just talk about it.
k3v
There sure is alot of mis-imformation flying around in here. The only post in here that any good info is timplett's post. Its seems to me that most of you have heard something from your friends unckles dog's sister and posting here with no actual idea as to if it is fact. Then you all bicker back and forth about it.
I'd love to pick apart each post, but i don't have time... unfortunatly i'm at work.
Bottom line:
~5 lbs will not beat an SRT-4 even if it is stock... (unless the driver is real bad)
~5 lbs or 8 lbs has nothing to do with a motor breaking.
~torque blows up motors
~a bad tune will blow up a motor even at 2 lbs
~ATX does not mean a blown up motor. Maybe a blown up tranny, but not a motor...
I've run 10-11 lbs for 5000 hard miles, before i moved, producing 244 pounds of wheel torque... with no issues. My MBC decide to go wacky on me one week and i made many pulls at 14psi on a stock block. My AF were good so i played a bit... It went back to 10 that same day, didn't want to push my luck. Motor didn't blow though... 10lbs felt slow after that night.
3 words for motor longevity...
Tune, Tune, Tune
I don't mean to sound like a d1ck... you all are gonna have a real hard time if you don't research yourself. These forums are filled with crap. (not just this one) Take the info you find here and other places and do your own research. Use info from people that have done it, not people you just talk about it.
k3v