no what i explaned was cleaning it up to get it ready for porting. that was just step 1 this should take you about a week for a p&p not hard but not quick eather. yes you should have everything out of the head after the first wash you may leave the cam seal and the valve seals. if it dosent shine on that head it needs cleaned including the head gasket area and the valve cover gasket area.

 

sorry i meant "what you are explaning..." I am with you so far.

 

step 2. we will cut the head into two parts, the intake to port and the exaust to port. we will start wil the exgaust, first notice that the exit has a small bump that runs the way of the head except in cylinder 1. you cam shave a mm of of that but for your first time i would stay clear. another place to stay clear of is the valve seat and valve stem shaft. start by taking off about 2-3 mm of of everything else including the split for the valves it dousent have to be perfect we will get to that later. this job is best done to head you could stand to lose. i would suggest getting one from a junk yard. even if it has 300000 miles as long as its not cracked and its done right it will be better than new. any questions to this point.

 

step 3 repeat the same prosess for the intake side. taking 3-4 mm. you always want more air in than out to keep your back presure. make sure to keep of your valve seat and valve steam shaft. once again it dosent have to perfect we'll get to that later. please feel free to ask question it may help out someone else or if I didnt answer something you need or want to know.

 

Is thier any water jackets that are close to the surrface i need to know about?
And i do have the extra head. Complete motor in fact.

 

good the extra head will help theres aways a chance of messing up. luckely junkyards only charge about 30 bucks if you pull it. the answer is yes on your exaughst side is the rail or water jacket. iwould suggest not grinding it out until you feal like getting risky even then only a mm and nothing to the divit in cyl 1. i havent found the ordering site at monndello for the grinding tools so you may have to call them. the bits are expensive but not as bad as paying to have it done. i would also suggest a heavy duty pnumatice grinder just to make it easier but still take your time.

 

Yeah i was thinking about getting one, i will wait cause i am in the process of moving into a new house. So i will start next month, gives me some me some time to start getting the stuff i need!

 

step 4 facing your head use you should still see an outline where the intake was atached grind the outline sloping it into your head. this is where you start getting detailed make sure that all ports are the same dimensions and that there are no major bumps or divits. use this proses all the way to the valves tring to creat as strait and smoth of a line as possable to the valves. reamember to keep your bit oiled. repeat this process for the exgaust side expept for the water line and valve seats.

 

Reading through here... I see a lot of mixed posts about porting.

I think Howell (even though they wind up being slightly more expensive than other places), knows more about neon headwork than the majority (if not all but a select number), and what generally works. I would feel more safe ordering a head P&P'ed from Howell than any other place (that is gauranteed to produce good numbers against a good price).

Now that I have said that...

For a typical car such as your's and just about any car here... I would not go past a stage 4 P&P from Howell(personally). Since you already have Crane Valve springs... I would go with STAGE 3. The only difference between stage 4 and three seems to be those valve springs. That seems very nice for any modified engine. Anything beyond that seems like overkill for me.

 

freeriders right using someone with mass experience like edlebrock howell or mondello is almost always better. but i believe that nhar wants to learn how to do it himself and he already has expeience with small motors. i cant stress it enough not to try your first few on heads that you need to rely on. mainly its something you just have to develop a feal for but after a while you will become good at it. my first head by myself had a lot of flaws that i evetualy went back and fixed. their is no shame in having someelse do a job like this for you. but if you want to learn it than just do it and youll find it gets pretty easy with time.