high ash %=high detergents.synthetic oils have a much higher detergent/zinc and phosphorus then any API oil sold and are far superior.thats sludge on the timing chains from not changing your oil.

 

Sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine after it makes it's way past the rings and enters into the combustion chamber thus burning off thus, ash is created, thus plugs will foul and the 02 sensor and CAT start to load up with deposits. Point here isils with lower ash content is the better choice and, Castrol GTX is right up there on the list for low ash content under AMS despite being a conventional motor oil.

On the topic of sludge: When motor oil becomes fully saturated with contaminants, debris and particulate matter settle out of the oil onto the internal engine parts and form sludge. This is why it is so critical to perform oil changes before this level of contamination is reached. If your changing your oil as instructed, sludge is a non issue.

Synths have always been anti-sludge due to not being petroleum based but, there's still quite a few on the market that do not include any detergents and, those do tend to bake on to the internal parts of the engine despite changing the oil out as directed by their recommendations.

One oil that does not contain any detergents was M1 and other racing oils.

The reason why Mobile 1 (and some others) do not include detergents is to avoid fouling plugs in racing / hi rmp applications. It is run w/o detergents and it is not kept in the pan for very long either.

CM

 

this is were synthetic oil are superior with a much higher flash point thus withstanding burn off.API dino oil has a much lower flash point thus burn off is more prevalent.high quality synthetics are design to withstand this burn off and if burn off occurs syn maintains its chemical characteristics that it had before burn off thus leading to very little to no ash deposits.in fact some synthetics additive packages use ashless dispersants thus controlling breakdown at the molecular level.thermal degradation will be the factor here thus leading to oil break down thus how quickly breakdown occurs at the molecular level.dino oils start to breakdown immediately at the molecular level.synthetic will last thousands of miles before this breakdown occurs thus producing zero reduction in performance characteristics.synthetic are superior in cooling due to there flow characteristics thus lowering under hood temps thus components operate cooler thus less break down at the molecular level.acidic compounds are what forms varnish and sludge along with degradation of viscosity.once this process starts these compounds continue to attack the molecular structure of the components involved.synthetics contain superior dispersants and anti oxidents thus suspending these acidic compounds caused by the combustion process.full race synthetics do not need detergents as those motor are all ready clean and should not be used in a street driven vehicle however they do carry high levels of ZDDP aka zinc and phosphorus thus giving high wetting properties.use a high quality oil and change it to avoid damage.
thus thus thus …..I feel smarter

 

castrol syntec in everythinig ive owned since the oil came out .things ive noticed after switching. cooler running engine, smoother running engine .other than that these days oil is oil it no longer contains the heavy zinc that protects engines from wear like the oils of old .royal purple has slightly higher zinc levels than most as well as rotella t but they all must meet federal requirements for heavy metal content for emissions regulations that change almost yearly .oil 5 and 10 years ago were completely different than oils of today.if you want more protection from wear get a bottle of break in lube or zinc additive (zddp).most motors today have roller cams so the oils are acceptable for todays motors .if you run a flat tappet cam youll want the additive to help keep your cam from eating itself flat.the lack of zinc also relates to the high number of spun rod bearings these days.

 

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...9_T%7CGRP60033____

Something like this? Does thsi apply to a 5.9 Engine ? Cause the description says for break in periods for new engines. If spending $13 more each oil change will really help my 5.9 live its longest i'll do it. I just want some confirmation on this. How much of it do you add ?

 

yup thatll do.1 bottle.it also says for race engines but thats because of emissions laws that prohibit its use on emissions controlled vehicles .there are others out there that are just a zddp additive .i know people who run that lucas breakin lube in their street cars(race cars)that swear by it and they have thousands of dollars invested in their motors.

 

Why would you need that? Our engines dont have flat tappet camshafts.

 

Well i dont know much about the engines yet im still learning, thats why im asking would a 5.9 benefit from this or not.

 

No, I dont think it would.

 

I use Castrol GTX High Milage 10w30. Using it to see if my valve seals are too far gone or not.