View Poll Results: What's in your engine?
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Motor Oil
Champion
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,416
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area, CA
Just go with Amsoil. Either their flagship 0W or 5W. Out in So Cal we see 117º F for weeks so, you should be fine with 0-5W Amsoil in Florida.
well from what i read on oil, is that the 0W, 5W, 10W, etc.. is the winter viscosity, and the -30, -40, -50, etc... is the hot viscosity, and all w-30s no matter what the first number are all gonna be a 30 weight oil at operating temps, if this is correct then a ow-30 would be plenty for fl, since it doesnt get cold, thus there is no need for a winter blend. i was also thinking about just getting a full syn. SAE40 motor oil, as i see no need for a winter blend in fl.
am i getting this right, or am i confused?
im trying to learn about this oil, as i would like to go to an oil thats thicker so i burn less but i dont want to go too thick as damage to the heads may occur with less lubrication.
what would be the best best to get a minimum amount of oil consumption? as it is my understanding that the thicker the oil, the less that tends to seep through the plenum, which i wont have a chance to do for a while, as i cant afford to be without a vehicle for more than 1 day.
am i getting this right, or am i confused?
im trying to learn about this oil, as i would like to go to an oil thats thicker so i burn less but i dont want to go too thick as damage to the heads may occur with less lubrication.
what would be the best best to get a minimum amount of oil consumption? as it is my understanding that the thicker the oil, the less that tends to seep through the plenum, which i wont have a chance to do for a while, as i cant afford to be without a vehicle for more than 1 day.
Well, since you had mentioned / questions regarding the first letter code of motor oil, that was why I had mentioned the winter weight. The OEM spec is to use 30 weight oil. If you go to a higher weight oil, it may not be of any value / benefit unless your engine is very worn. If it's not burning oil and, it's always been topped off (not run out of oil) you would be better off using the standard 30 weight motor oil vs an SAE 40 weight.
The reason is, since most engine wear happens at startup, the last thing you want is thick motor oil at startup. It doesn't flow and, the upper end goes south over time when running that viscosity motor oil. Only if you have serious blow-by - to the point your rings are very worn as is your valve guides, I would not recommend you to run SAE 40 in your truck. In fact, it is not recommended to use any single grade motor oil in most vehicles. I know some use it in industrial equipment and such, but, not in cars.
There's a paper out on motor oils that was published by SAE. It contains all the information your looking for. Look for a spec called J-300. You can find it at SAE international http://www.sae.org/technical/standards/J300_200901
The reason is, since most engine wear happens at startup, the last thing you want is thick motor oil at startup. It doesn't flow and, the upper end goes south over time when running that viscosity motor oil. Only if you have serious blow-by - to the point your rings are very worn as is your valve guides, I would not recommend you to run SAE 40 in your truck. In fact, it is not recommended to use any single grade motor oil in most vehicles. I know some use it in industrial equipment and such, but, not in cars.
There's a paper out on motor oils that was published by SAE. It contains all the information your looking for. Look for a spec called J-300. You can find it at SAE international http://www.sae.org/technical/standards/J300_200901
