Well, i guess my truck was ran with synthetic by the PO. I too have the nasty BBQ looking crap.. I was wondering what the heck that was I see when i take the oil cap off to change the oil. I can clearly see this nasty looking BS!!!!!!!!

I hope crap doesnt start floating around and ''clogging up'' passages. It looks identical to whats in your pic, actually worse.. I guess ill have to rely on my oil to clean out some of this mess at best as it can. I even have the crap on the bottom on my oil cap. And also some on the oil plug. The oil stick is clean as can be tho... Im running castrol GTX High mileage 10/30 now (NO SYNTHETIC CRAP). Any suggestions? Should i maybe change the oil sooner than i already do? I change it at no later than 3000 miles. I actually change it early most of the time. This last oil change i changed it 1000 miles early. Any tips on getting rid of this crap?

 

The problem getting rid of the BBQ Cajun crust is where is all that stuff going to end up- that's an issue that has come up in conversation many times. I thought of using a flush and had mentioned it to a few select mechanics. I had gone around and around on that only to be told never to use an engine flush because, it makes it even worse they said. And, after looking at the chemical listings associated with some of those products, I believe they are correct on that as well. When I'm at work and using chemicals, I get to know them well along with cause and affect on materials. I neglect to do that with car products for some reason. It's a mental thing. It's a flush, it must clean, it must be ok to use as it says it's for cleaning the engine so, the mind tricks the user into thinking it's a safe product to use. Reality is, in a few of those products, there's some diabolical chemicals in them which, some are not safe to use - even on metals. After draining, there's going to be some of that still inside which, mixes with the new oil and, if it's got an acid, that's the last thing you want- an etchant in your motor.

Now, if there were a safe product that didn't contain alcohols and other nasty chemicals that eat gasket materials, RTVs, contain acids that etch the machined parts in the engines, and, one that turned the baked on crust to a liquid pulp- yeah, it may work but, to my knowledge, such a product does not exist. So, you have to do it slowly over time by just allowing the detergents in the dino oil to break down and start to dissolve that BBQ'd Cajun crust. Those engine flushes can actually do more harm than good and, man, some of those even state to drive it with that stuff in there for a certain amount of time.

My lifter valley would require a blow torch to get that BBQ Cajun crust off. This was noted after running Seafoam in the oil to clean it. Shows how well that product worked- it didn't touch it.

CM

 

Question for you cmckenna, what about synthetic blends? Would they cause the same issues as running a full synthetic?

Oh and my 1500 gets Valvoline or Castrol GTX 5w30 or 10w30. My 2004 Mitsubishi has always had Mobile1. So now I'm thinking of going to a blend if that works okay or scrap it all together and use the good old conventional.

 

I use the Advanced Auto store brand 10w30 dino oil......

 

i use the cheapest 5L container of 5w30 which is Valvoline right now. my oil change only cost $18 for oil and filter. i know i am going to have to change the oil in my 81 again because i can tell there is still a bit of gas left in it from when it flooded. already have the 5l jug of 5w30 sitting in the truck. it only cost me $12 after taxes.

 

Valvoline 10-30 . Cheap and it works .

 

15w40 Chevron Dello 400 for 250k mile V-10
40w Red Line oil for the others

 

I would steer clear of blended formulas. Yes, it will induce the same exact symptoms and the end result will be the same. WHY? These blended oils suffer from the same problem that full synthetics do and that is, detergents break down the synthetic lubricant properties thus, they are either not added or, if they are added, chemical breakdown of the synthetic occurs during use thus, rendering the synthetic protection completely useless and, what you end up with over use is - regular motor oil. The difference being that it costs more due to processing of the synthetic lubricant. It is not worth it.

I like Valvoline despite having a high ash content. But, if one changes it as instructed on the package, there is no need to worry. I also like Castrol and, after reading more and more about oil, I think Castrol may have the edge as far as being a top end motor oil. Either way, just run good ol fashioned dino oil and, your lifters and valvetrain along with the entire engine will run longer, cleaner and sound better.

Here's a story.

Over this past summer, I sold a gentleman a whole case of AMSoil for his older Chevy truck. I no longer was running AMS and he was in the auto store looking for some. He was dead set on buying some despite informing him of some of the issues associated with that type of motor oil so, I sold him a case. He came back to my house asking for a partial refund on the ones he didn't use. Of course, I told him no but, I asked him what the issue was and, he explained his experience to me.

He apparently went towing up in the hi desert and, during climbing a very long steep hill during the hottest season, his oil pressure dropped (due to extreme heat induced oil thinning) and the motor was clacking when he pulled off to check things out. I told him all he had to do was change back to dino oil and run a 40-50 weight oil for the summer and nothing bad happened to his engine. Problem solved. He learned by first hand experience of some of the issues with synthetics despite informing him not to use it.

While, in lab tests, it is true that synthetics do last considerably longer and, they do lubricate very well that, it leads one to believe that synths are the way to go. One assumes that it protects the engine better because the test results show they protect better meaning, less wear.

But, under real world testing, I found I used to blow through the synthetic due to thinning and blow by. I assumed it was due to high mileage and wear. It was due to oil thinning. It was making it's way past the rings and guide seals etc. Oil was in the intake and, my breather and PCV was always fouled up with oil residue.

After returning to dino oil, I found that after driving 3500 miles, I was down a little less than a quart. And, on a truck with 260 miles on it and going over the Rockies, it shows me something and, that is, conventional dino motor oil (high quality brand) is the way to go.

CM

 

Awesome response!

 

I meant to type more but my phone sent it (touch screen mishap). Anyway, this is the exact info I was looking for. My cousin who is my mechanic says he usually runs Castrol in everything because it seems to lubricate better than most and it's just a damn good oil. I think I'll take your and his advice. Thanks again cmckenna!