Champion
There are nv4500 rolling a round behind Cummins pumping out twice the torque you have.
All the diesles have is a bigger mainshaft and a couple more splines on the input shaft
All the diesles have is a bigger mainshaft and a couple more splines on the input shaft
Captain
I got the 98 back today with a new idle control valve, the speedo/tach is back up to par, and a turbo thrush muffler is installed and running with a reserved rumble, (for old guys). ^ add new sensor K.
Grand Champion
Not trying to be a dousche here, but...
Keegan your problem is most likely in the shift fork linkage. If you are under a year and 12000 miles that thing is still warranted. otherwise pull the top plate and check it out.
Edited spline count, fat finger.
Quote:
try 4 times as much torqueOriginally Posted by Ham Bone
There are nv4500 rolling a round behind Cummins pumping out twice the torque you have.
Quote:
Swap that the input is bigger in diameter, mainshaft is 29 spline instead of 23.Originally Posted by Ham Bone
All the diesles have is a bigger mainshaft and a couple more splines on the input shaft
Keegan your problem is most likely in the shift fork linkage. If you are under a year and 12000 miles that thing is still warranted. otherwise pull the top plate and check it out.
Edited spline count, fat finger.
Champion
Quote:
try 4 times as much torque
Swap that the input is bigger in diameter, mainshaft is 29 spline instead of 22.
Keegan your problem is most likely in the shift fork linkage. If you are under a year and 12000 miles that thing is still warranted. otherwise pull the top plate and check it out.
Thanks Wombat. It should still be under warranty, at least I hope...Originally Posted by Wombat Ranger
Not trying to be a dousche here, but...try 4 times as much torque
Swap that the input is bigger in diameter, mainshaft is 29 spline instead of 22.
Keegan your problem is most likely in the shift fork linkage. If you are under a year and 12000 miles that thing is still warranted. otherwise pull the top plate and check it out.
Champion
Quote:
try 4 times as much torque
Swap that the input is bigger in diameter, mainshaft is 29 spline instead of 22.
Keegan your problem is most likely in the shift fork linkage. If you are under a year and 12000 miles that thing is still warranted. otherwise pull the top plate and check it out.
Oops I got them backwards. Originally Posted by Wombat Ranger
Not trying to be a dousche here, but...try 4 times as much torque
Swap that the input is bigger in diameter, mainshaft is 29 spline instead of 22.
Keegan your problem is most likely in the shift fork linkage. If you are under a year and 12000 miles that thing is still warranted. otherwise pull the top plate and check it out.
Oh well, you guys get the point
Champion
finally fixed those ruts i made back in march... how did i do it, you ask?
i plowed the crap out of my lawn using my truck, and plow. then i back dragged all the dirt to semi smooth it out. then used a lawn rake, and got it almost perfect!
grass seed, and fertilizer is next...
i plowed the crap out of my lawn using my truck, and plow. then i back dragged all the dirt to semi smooth it out. then used a lawn rake, and got it almost perfect!
grass seed, and fertilizer is next...
Champion
Got the dodge working again...
Got my shifter stub out so I could see the rails - and just as I figured the reverse/fifth rail was out of alignment. How the hell my stub managed to slip out of that I have no clue. Nothing was worn out or otherwise damaged. It was easy enough to fix - two big flatheads, push down the cover and twist it counter clockwise, it pops up, pull the stub out, and there are the rails. Rail to the left is the one I wanted. Put the transfercase in neutral, set park brake, start the engine, use the screwdriver to pop the rail back into alignment (in this case, out of reverse), put everything back together, and voila it works...
Got my shifter stub out so I could see the rails - and just as I figured the reverse/fifth rail was out of alignment. How the hell my stub managed to slip out of that I have no clue. Nothing was worn out or otherwise damaged. It was easy enough to fix - two big flatheads, push down the cover and twist it counter clockwise, it pops up, pull the stub out, and there are the rails. Rail to the left is the one I wanted. Put the transfercase in neutral, set park brake, start the engine, use the screwdriver to pop the rail back into alignment (in this case, out of reverse), put everything back together, and voila it works...
Captain
I put the 98 farm truck back to work at the barn, (the one with puny axles), ran trips for the garden stuff (grow & eat variety), picked up a tri-pod for the camera (thanks to Wombat Ranger and his cell phone photo of Blue 231). K.