AKA "break in" period. I usually start by going 5mph and come to a slow stop, 15mph-slow stop
25mph- so on and so forth to about 55-60 and do that a few times. What that does is run the pads and rotors through all heat cycles. Just don't Jam the breaks for the first 100 miles or so. Although you should never have to do that anyways, makes them last longer if you don't.

 

Welded a plug into the hole where my tire winch used to be.
Applied some bondo to level things out. Bondo does not like high humidity.
Ground off some rust on the hitch.

 

Basically, take it out and beat on your brakes a bit..... Run it up to 50, step as hard on the brakes as you can without locking up.

I never really bothered with this procedure after having it warp rotors on customer cars a couple times. If there is a good non-directional finish on the rotors, normal driving will suffice.

In all reality, I wonder if the procedure is just a hold-over from the days of asbestos brake pads......

If it were a race truck, I would actually consider doing it...... but, for a daily driver, in my opinion, it isn't really necessary.

 

Drop it off at the gear shop.

 

Well....I ordered a new drivers side Hub and wheel assembly, and U-joint (drivers side...passenger was replaced last year)....and.....bought these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-01...ht_5472wt_1165


Opinions?

 

Link goes nowhere.

 

Changed the read diff fluid.

 

I thought it was weird. I've unplugged my TPS and IAC at least 15 times since I've had the truck and I've also had the MAP and IAT (it's in the air cleaner now) unplugged a few times and never thrown a code but it did this time.

 

I apologize....fixed the link.

 

Those look kinda cool. The funny finish inside the inboard lights looks odd though, might just be the pics. Post pics when you get them installed.

Price isn't too bad either.....