few buddys drove up to jegs to return sum headers for his s/c buick

and i got one of those's rad cap that tell u temp like UnregisteredUser got

 

I lent mine to my wife today to go to work, because hers wouldn't start for some reason.... Stay tuned for what I will HAVE to do to my Ram tomorrow

 

Yeah...the neoforms rock at a fraction of the cost of icons (which most people have drank the kool-aid on). Two sets for two vehicles which got me to the free shipping amount and I'll be getting $30 back making them about $17 a pair for teflon-coated, top-of-the-line frameless wipers...not too shabby.

 

Not that I was having any problems, but after 14 years of service it was time to change the tps, iac, map, and both temp sending units. Reset the pcm, It just sucks the gas back when I do this,oh well.

 

Dropped my Ram off at the body shop today

 

Well, tossed all the recycling that needed to go away into the bed, and headed off to the center..... but.... the oil pressure light was on.... Checked the oil, still right up there. Damn, not good. Took the truck back home. (a block) Contorted my way back there, and removed the OPS, and screwed in my mechanical test gauge...... Fired up the truck. Now, normally, I would expect to wait a few, and then see oil coming up the capilary tube... not happening here.... oil pressure was about 15 pounds at ilde, and went DOWN when I gave it a little gas. Sounds like a plugged pickup tube.. But, since I am going to have to drop the pan anyway, the new high volume pump, gaskets, and rear main seal should be in tomorrow morning, and installation will proceed from there.. Gonna have to do it in the driveway, as I am NOT going to drive it to the shop the way it is now.

 

I watched her drop about a quart of coolant when I stopped in my driveway. I was smelling coolant on the way home and thinking heater core. I even checked the floorboard on the passenger side when I pulled in the drive and then saw the puddle building under the rad. Never could find the exect spot. It was getting dark and the leaking stopped after about a quart and 2 minutes after shutting her down. Somewhere about 3/4 of the way up on the drivers side. Not the hose so now I decide do I hunt around or plan to just replace?

Anyone done a rad swap and have any good advice?

 

Make sure it is indeed the radiator before you replace it, (and then find you STILL have a leak...) Top off the coolant, start the truck up, and let it warm up, and then look to see exactly where the coolant is coming from.

The freeze plug behind the drivers engine mount is a favorite place for these engines to leak.

 

Got some Scorpion battery terminals in the mail today, removed and discarded the old dime a dozen terminals I had on. Also soldered copper end terminals to my starters positive lead, and the positive lead that runs to the under hood fuse block.

 

begining my transfer case removal/ rebuild.....removed front driveshaft and skid plate, and now i have no more grind....So i guess thats a clear sign of bad T-Case...runs great now, but i have no 4x4.......

also got some pics of my Rocker Panal/Door project that i did a month ago....

chec out my thread and tell me what you peeps think about my body work....cost less than $30...Thread is PIC Heavy

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ject-more.html