96 gets speedo signal from the speedo gear in the trans tailshaft on DS.
Notice your build sheet says 3.92 gears but is that what is actually in it?
If its got taller gears then the speedo gear needs to be swapped.
Some tstats will have the temps stamped on the small round brass piece thats below the spring

Idled fine at first, did you drive it when you first looked at it?
Did it idle ok after intial drive?
There was no cel after intail drive?
May or may not be tps, do you know how to test it by back probing?
Found my 96 hated to have base voltage any higher than .7V (didnt like tps mod when na)

With blown/408 mtr will move/twist on the mounts fair ways towards the pass side.
Maybe dislodge something that is causing interferance with the throttle cables?

PM you didnt get below

Ok, you have everything you need from what I can see & you have said.
Superchargers 101

BOV is your blow off valve.
When letting off the throttle the bov releases the pressure so the boost in the tube wont bend the throttle blades & cause the throttle to get stuck open.

The dial by the shifter is the BTM I wanted you to look for in prior pm,
Crane calls it TRC which would probably stands for Timing Retard Control.
Same as a BTM, its for pulling timing under boost.
Any detonation when in boost you have to pull out timing or will damage the mtr.
The TRC looks like its pulling max timing out, at this point thats probably a good thing till you get use to the truck as well as confirm everything a/f is set correctly.

The red Aeromotive box is a FMU I wanted you to look for.
This one is digital & is better than a fixed rate cause its adjustable.
5 leds, one across the top of each slider.
As rpms increase & you start to make boost, each led will light up one at a time starting from the left to right.
If you hold the rpms steady which ever led is lit up, the slider below it will be the one you would make fuel trim adjustments with based on if the a/f gauge is showing lean or rich.
When your making boost, you want the a/f read between 11.5-12.0. If it reads any higher # you are going lean which is dangerous to the mtr.
If it goes to a lower # your running rich which will reduce mpg but wont do any serious harm (may fry cat it left rich too long)

Do not let anyone touch the TRC or the DFMU, EVER unless they are a tuner at a dyno shop!
Very important, once set they dont get adjusted again unless something is changed in the combo, ie smaller pulley, meth inj, bigger fuel injectors or inline pump.

Superchargers need to be brought up to opertating temperature before you run them hard so be patient after starting.
Allow the motor to get to normal operating temps any time you drive it.
Now that its topped up you need to check your oil pressure to see what its doing.
Keep it in park & give it a bit of throttle(after warm up) & let off. If its acting normal give it a bit more & let off.
If it acts up at all & goes to zero, Id replace the oil pressure sensor.
Must find out if its the sensor or not before going further.
If pressure seems ok need to check the a/f ratio.
Slowly take the rpms up till it starts to show boost on the gauge.
Hold throttle steady at that rpm
Check the a/f gauge to see what it says.
If its showing above 12.0 need to move the slider thats lit(should be 1st one) upward till a/f shows 12.0 or lower
Continue on checking boost vs a/f till your sure its 12.0 a/f or lower (rich)
If its 11.5 or lower tweak the slider down slightly to lean it out a bit (small movement).
As you confirm each boost level that lights up a trim slider increase rpms & go on to the next.

 

Wow that info above was VERY helpful....

So leaning towards the idea that you said about the speedo signal from the speedo gear in the trans tailshaft...said like you are right about that. There is an aftermarket JEGS 5 grand tranny in there maybe the speedo gear is not the correct one? Before you told me that, I thought it was a bad/wrong VSS. Can that part be purchased at an auto store (the tranny speedo gear) ? Or should I let a pro mechanic mess with that?

I did not drive the first night I saw it...he drove it from 15 miles away and it was idling good when I seen him. And no CEL at that time...

I did not know how to test the TPS by back probing it...I may need to be spoon fed on this one...

I noticed the last time I drove it (Sunday) that the A/F display read about 13.7 or so. I understand that it is bad right? So I should follow your prior directions to set the FMU in my center console? I am looking for 11.5-12.0 correct? This could be the root cause of the P0256 and P0434 code right?
P0256 - Injection pump fuel metering control B malfunction (cam rotor injector)
P0434 - heated catalyst below threshold (cylinder bank #2)

I got a new 180 stat and oil pressure sending unit to install by tomorrow afternoon. I have never replaced a sending unit...I believe they are located next to the dist cap on the pass. side in the block right? Are they hard to change and what tools do I need? On the new unit all I see is threads and an electrical connector that gets plugged on the other end...

I have most of tomorrow to screw around fixing it, so hopefully I will have good results by the end of the day...

Thanks again Blair! U da man!

 

Best to start here first,

Correct, oil pressure sensor is on pass. side beside distributor.
Pop off the connector, if you have a 1 1/16" deep socket you can remove it with that or 8" adjustable wrench.
Not alot of room to get at it so if using adjustable may have to hold it in various positions to get it unlocked & new one back in.

Once both are swapped, reset the computer by disconnecting the neg battery cable & turn key on then off & reconnect (clear codes)
Start it & let it warm up & see if oil pressure is reacting better.
See if you get a cel & if any codes come up.

Important to have good oil pressure.

If no codes & good pressure, move on
Does a Jegs tranny even have the speedo gear?
Its located here on drivers side of tailshaft in a 46re trans, really easy to change it.



Will need a gasket for it as well & put thin coat of rtv sealant on both sides of the gasket.
Dealer only place you can get the speedo gears.
Sure you have 3.92 gears in the diff?
3.92 gears need 35/36 tooth speedo gear depending on tire diameter.(30" go w/36 tooth).

If your not positive it has 3.92s, need to find out whats in there.
Jack up rear & put stands under the axles.
Turn key on but do not start, shift into neutral.
Spin rear tire so air valve is pointing straight up or down (your choice )
Mark the driveshaft with tape pointing towards you.
Spin the tire around once while counting shaft revolutions.
If it goes around 3.9times you do have 3.92
If just over 4x then its 4.10s, 4.5x is 4.56 etc.


If that was just cruising at low rpm & not showing any boost 14.5 is usually about right.
13.7 is rich for cruising but safer than lean
If it was WOT & in boost from say 2500-5500rpms then you need to see 11.5-12.0 (11.7 best)
You will need to adjust the individual sliders as I describe in last post.
One at a time from just as boost comes on, top left led lit up on the Aeromotive DFMU, hold that rpm with left slider bump it up slightly & see how it affects a/f ratio.
Once its reading below 12.0 your safe (at that rpm/boost level)
Then give a bit more gas for higher rpms & more boost till the 2nd led lights up, hold rpms then see what a/f ratio is & move up 2nd slider to lower a/f reading (making it richer)
Continue on till the last one lights up & make final adjustment.
After that do not screw with the DFMU or let anyone else touch it.

 

*****UPDATE******

Okay got some more kinks worked out and is running much much better!

Oil Pressure is perfect now, and the operating temp looks correct also around 165. When the truck is warm, it is not idling high even sitting at a red light. Seems like it is running how it is suppose to now...All fluids level are correct and perfect now...

Questions:

Supposedly there is a 5K JEGS trans in there but I am not finding evidence of this...It looks like the stock 46RE trans pan is on...there is a drain plug in there and looks to have the slightest drip coming from the plug...how can I tell what trans it is? How would I go about fixing the leak without draining the pan? Or if I have too thats okay...I did see the speedo gear on the trans tailshaft so that is good! So I found out the speedometer is 7-8 MPH off...

The original ignition coil was mounted on a bracket in front of the throttle body so I removed it since it is no longer used... Fireball ignition coil is mounted on the pass fender...

THere are two breather filters on either side of the valve covers...The pass side one is very nasty/dirty and the driver side was smoking earlier today...I will be cleaning and re-oiling those tomorrow...

Friday List
-Figure out, solve trans pan leak
-Clean and re-oil VC breathers
-Check rear gear ratio
-Reset computer...check for new or existing codes... (CEL is still on now) for P0256 and P0434
-100% detail of interior
-Paint floor pedals and bed tow hooks black

Hopefully will be ready for the strip by 6 oclock! I'm exicted as hell for my first pass!

 

can you still draw codes if there isnt a engine light ?

 

Negative...But the CEL is still on! I will reset the computer tomorrow and see if I am still getting those codes...

 

oh ok, good luck ! ! that truck is a beast cant wait to see a video of it in action

 

Im not sure about the key on/off trick but with an obd2 reader you can read codes, after the CEL has turned off, because the pcm stores them for awhile, or until the pcm is reset

 

This may help if you've never been down the 1/4m
http://www.rm-indy.com/dragrace101.htm

Hope your going to a real track (1/4m) like Altanta Dragway seeing its so close?

Ill hazard a guess of 13.25
Good luck & have fun!!

 

You got it! Atlanta dragway here I come! Its only 40 miles from where I live, not too bad. I think 13.25 is more optimistic than achievable. But I will give it my best. It's just a test and tune tonight anyways....should somewhat laidback