Timing on a Camaro
#21
I didn't put the motor at TDC yet. I will tomorrow.
I just looked from the passenger side while I was out there but it looks pretty tight in there where the injector clips are, The fuel rail is in between the two halves of the intake manifold.
If I need to pop the top off to get to them then I guess that would be ok, it isn't hard to just take the top half of the intake off.
I love the design of my Ram compared to most vehicles, especially front wheel drive cars. About the only thing that bothers me about it from a maintenance standpoint is the distributor location.
The Camaro has an ALDL connector that I can just shove a paper clip into to get the CEL dancing.
I don't have a warning light but maybe I should try it anyway.
I just looked from the passenger side while I was out there but it looks pretty tight in there where the injector clips are, The fuel rail is in between the two halves of the intake manifold.
If I need to pop the top off to get to them then I guess that would be ok, it isn't hard to just take the top half of the intake off.
I love the design of my Ram compared to most vehicles, especially front wheel drive cars. About the only thing that bothers me about it from a maintenance standpoint is the distributor location.
The Camaro has an ALDL connector that I can just shove a paper clip into to get the CEL dancing.
I don't have a warning light but maybe I should try it anyway.
#25
I tested the fuel pressure, it is at 45psi.
I pulled the only fuel injector pigtail that I can get at without too much of a fight and tested it with my multimeter. It is getting voltage but the funny thing is that the car started and ran with a misfire. I gassed it a little using the throttle linkage and it revved up (with a misfire).
Seemed right to me.
I reconnected that injector and started it and it runs like normal now.
So now I'm scratching my head as to why it didn't want to start in the first place.
The only thing I changed was the coil, the rest of what I did to it was diagnostics.
I checked the timing since it is running now and it is showing a little past 0º.
The timing marks count down to 0 from left to right and the timing is set a little to the right of 0.
I'm going to set the timing where it's supposed to be and play with the idle screw a little tomorrow and see what happens.
I pulled the only fuel injector pigtail that I can get at without too much of a fight and tested it with my multimeter. It is getting voltage but the funny thing is that the car started and ran with a misfire. I gassed it a little using the throttle linkage and it revved up (with a misfire).
Seemed right to me.
I reconnected that injector and started it and it runs like normal now.
So now I'm scratching my head as to why it didn't want to start in the first place.
The only thing I changed was the coil, the rest of what I did to it was diagnostics.
I checked the timing since it is running now and it is showing a little past 0º.
The timing marks count down to 0 from left to right and the timing is set a little to the right of 0.
I'm going to set the timing where it's supposed to be and play with the idle screw a little tomorrow and see what happens.
Last edited by Sheriff420; 11-27-2010 at 08:43 PM.
#26
Before you play with the idle screw.......
Turn the key on, and insert your high tech code pulling tool into the a and b terminals on the aldl. Count slowly to 10. Turn the key off. Remove high tech tool. (I used a paperclip......) Crawl under the hood, and unplug the idle air control motor. Start the engine, and set minimum idle at about 500 RPM. Shut the engine off. Plug the IAC back in. Disconnect battery to clear codes..... Start the engine, see how it runs.
Turn the key on, and insert your high tech code pulling tool into the a and b terminals on the aldl. Count slowly to 10. Turn the key off. Remove high tech tool. (I used a paperclip......) Crawl under the hood, and unplug the idle air control motor. Start the engine, and set minimum idle at about 500 RPM. Shut the engine off. Plug the IAC back in. Disconnect battery to clear codes..... Start the engine, see how it runs.
#27
Will do. Just have to set the timing first.
Doesn't doing what you said make the IAC run all the way in, then out then back to a preset position?
I said play with the idle screw because when I was adjusting the timing on my Thunderbird the idle shot way up after I turned the distributor so I had to bring the idle back down to smooth it out. I would assume the Camaro would do the same.
Doesn't doing what you said make the IAC run all the way in, then out then back to a preset position?
I said play with the idle screw because when I was adjusting the timing on my Thunderbird the idle shot way up after I turned the distributor so I had to bring the idle back down to smooth it out. I would assume the Camaro would do the same.
#28
Putting the ecm into diagnostic mode, without the engine running, will cause it to run the IAC all the way in, so, when you turn the funny little screw, you are setting minimum idle. Under normal circumstances, ecm will indeed control idle..... even in diagnostic mode. Unplugging the iac when it is fully closed disables that particular little problem, so that you CAN set minimum idle speed, without having to fight the IAC motor for a correct reading.
ECM has a 'target' RPM for idle, adjusted for things like being in gear, or having the A/C on. Changing the timing doesn't change what the ecm wants to idle at, and adjusting the timing should cause the ecm to bring idle back down to where it wants it. You may get the impression that it is idling faster, simply because it is running smoother.
I have no clue what was up with the Ford.
ECM has a 'target' RPM for idle, adjusted for things like being in gear, or having the A/C on. Changing the timing doesn't change what the ecm wants to idle at, and adjusting the timing should cause the ecm to bring idle back down to where it wants it. You may get the impression that it is idling faster, simply because it is running smoother.
I have no clue what was up with the Ford.
#29
I set the timing to 10º BTDC like it is supposed to be. The car was running smooth and everything seemed right.
When I was putting the socket on the distributor hold down bolt I turned the distributor a little bit and realized that it wasn't tight to begin with, I think that's why it got out of time in the first place.
I reconnected that tan wire that you have to unplug to set the timing and disconnected the battery for a few minutes to clear any codes that may be present. The service engine soon light was on and I think it was from having that tan wire unplugged to set the timing but I unhooked the battery anyway.
When I went to start it again after reconnecting the battery I am back at square one. The engine will catch and run for a moment then cut off. If I give it a little gas it dies immediately.
When I was putting the socket on the distributor hold down bolt I turned the distributor a little bit and realized that it wasn't tight to begin with, I think that's why it got out of time in the first place.
I reconnected that tan wire that you have to unplug to set the timing and disconnected the battery for a few minutes to clear any codes that may be present. The service engine soon light was on and I think it was from having that tan wire unplugged to set the timing but I unhooked the battery anyway.
When I went to start it again after reconnecting the battery I am back at square one. The engine will catch and run for a moment then cut off. If I give it a little gas it dies immediately.