It's going to be too hard to NOT skip ahead to the drive report, but I'm going to try...

Receiving: I got it about three days after I ordered it, and it was complete and unharmed.. I'm going to clam up tight about Hughes, because they did this exceptionally well. The item came with detailed instructions and tips, and color illustrations.. I couldn't have asked for more.

Expectations of Quality vs Actual: It is exactly as I expected- a basically unaltered RPM Air-Gap manifold with injector bosses cast into it.. There were sharp edges around the head side of the injector bosses that needed 'shouldering' and polishing, as well as the entire TB adapters throat.. A few hours with a dremmel and proper tips sorted this right out.

Prepping: The fuel rail and TB adapter are a touch annoying.. I didn't have to do two things that I've heard discussed: I didn't have to discard the old fuel rail crossover line, and I didn't have to notch the mounting plate.. This was good.. I chose to put a little RTV on each of the brass fittings before installing them, and I chose to use a new temperature probe/sensor instead of using the old one. The face of the gasket surface was flawless and only needed wiping down with some alcohol to make it right.. that happened right before install.

Installation: smooth and painless.. the only two things worth mentioning is that the thermostat housings tolerances are much tighter than the keg, and I had to discard an almost new 180* stat.. I wasn't expecting this and wasn't prepared. For the time being, I have a 160* in it's stead. The second thing is the WP bypass hose.. The FI is a little offset from the keg, and I had to trim down the hose and argue with it to slip on both sides adequately... It isn't leaking so it must be adequate, right? I had to cut a sliver out of my Volant's air hat and duct to make it fit.. The FI sits about a half inch higher than the keg..

Start-up: It didn't hesitate, and the only difference is that it idled pretty high (around 1kRPM) for a few minutes, and slowly dropped down to usual (around 650RPM).. that could just as well be the winter chill too, though.. The injectors were seated well enough, and there were no leaks.. A quick look at the dipstick told me there was no coolant in the oil, so my seal was good.. I let it warm up..

Initial drive: It sounds a LOT different.. The brake pedal is firmer (I'm sure it has something to do with stronger vacuum signal due to smaller plenum), and it seems to pull from idle just as strongly as the keg, regardless of what I've heard spoken otherwise. From a pretty good clip of 40mph, and popping the throttle just hard enough to take me down a gear- it sounds like a four barrel opening up- and it takes off very smoothly, and very firmly- smoothly being operative word here... It took me to 70mph a lot quicker than I am used to seeing.. but, alas, this is just a shake down cruise and I had to head back to give it a look over..

Putting it through it's paces on a 100 mile road trip, with mixed city, country, and highway driving: I topped off the tank and reset the tripometer.. I'm really impressed with the acceleration this thing produces.. It's really smooth and strong up to 3500RPM.. I punched it hard at one point from about 30mph coming out of a speed zone and reached 60 in about 3/4 the time I'm accustomed to seeing- and it sounds plum nasty doing so.. There is a sweet spot driving any vehicle, where the engine is holding it's own.. it isn't bogging whilst trying to achieve speed, and it isn't coasting and robbing speed.. That is the best place to be to conserve fuel, but only if you can find it.. With the kegger, it is a constant battle and consists of minute changes in right foot pressure on the skinny pedal.. You're going to have to put the engine under load when your climbing, passing, negotiating whatever obstacle/what have you.. But when you've hunkered down for the long haul, on a long open stretch of road, this little 'zone' is the best place for an engine to be.. Imagine a generator running and load being thrown at it, and where it adjusts to to handle that load if you can.. I call it 'settling in', though I know there is likely a better term for it.. That, my friends, was a long way of going about telling you: this thing 'settles in' quickly and efficiently.. What I mean by efficient, is that the power is just a touch of pressure on the skinny pedal away from passing the car ahead of you, or a fraction less to coast out... Passing cars is a ton faster and cleaner- Just a little bit of the pressure I was accustomed to applying with the kegger is adequate- punching it like I did the kegger resulted in some serious *** hauling.. If there is one place I can tell you the FI shines, it is passing.

I've put 200, almost an even 200 miles on it thus far, and w/o topping off I can't tell you precisely how much better fuel mileage I got with the thing. I tried not to drive any different than any other time, and I'm just using 'drew logic' to figure any economic gains.. I can tell you this: When I hit 150 on the kegger, I'm usually halfway between the 1/2 and 1/4 marks on the gauge.. I'm just a hair below 1/2 right now.. That is a definate gain, but I won't know precisely how much until I top it off.

I'm thinking I'm happy with the choice, and would recommend it to anyone who is interested in giving it a shot.

 

i want it, but i dunno if its a good 600 dollar mod with only 3.55 gears ?

 

My gearing absolutely does help keep me in the FI's range better, but even creeping off the line I notice at least equiv response. I'm thinking, fwiw, you will like it too- but $600 is a ton of $$ for an intake. I'd do it again, but only because that dang plenum pan/gasket annoyed me THAT much.

 

ya i been following this guys page , his next project is doing the injectors and new fuel rails http://www.snowdigger.com/the_garage...es_intake.html

do you have a CAI or 14x3 on the airgap ?

i love the sound of the motor now, would love it too hear what it sounds like with the aigap any way of making a video ? also did your exhaust sounding diffrent also after install ?

i

 

Nice write up Drew! I still think im gonna go M1 when the time comes, but i have to spend the Intake $$$ on a rearend prob a trutrac or locker, just a matter of time before it grenades itself, ( already found clutch pak pieces) oh yeah and ..

 

If you look close at the brass bypass nipple in the front, you can see the WP's connect too- and they are slightly offset.. which makes for a fun time installing (not).. Otherwise, the fuel rails, and getting the injectors to align were the only other issue..

I put a 180* in it yesterday...

I gotta tell 'yall, this is now my favorite mod, and here is the reasons:

- no more plenum gasket failing concerns AT ALL..
- stronger vacuum signal for brakes..
- moving the AIT sensor to the CAI duct makes TONS of sense and is worth a pony or two..
- I can't say this for everyone, but with those w/ steeper gears there is zero loss of low end~ and maybe even a touch more..
- Acceleration while passing is night and day.. t's much quicker and more efficient from 30~50 to 60~80mph..
- It 'settles in' at a very predicable place- once I achieve the speed I need, I don't have to do anything but apply slight pressure on the skinny pedal as grade changes or tap it to pass.. the lower 'passing' gear is right there instead of diving deep into the throttle to find it- and before anyone says anything, my TPC has always been dead on- it's the 52mm coupled with the FI and the gears that does this for me..

I'm going to drive it reasonably for this next tank, which will allow the PCM to adjust completely (if it hasn't already) and I'll look for mileage improvements- the next one I'll put through the paces to see what it does for me.. Understand though, I could care less about having a fast cement block on wheels- I want grunt when I need it, efficiency, and enough gogo to make driving traffic safer..

I still have five things to do to this truck- the Good Hood ram air hood, and the 4 hole, 22lbs injectors, the 5" suspension lift, the borg shaft and steering stabilizer, and the tranny rebuild.. I can't wait to have it finished so my wallet can recover.. dang it.. But so far, I put this mod on top right next to the SCT and gears.

 

There is only the spot for the one coolant temp sensor? I see they have the boss there for the other one, but, it isn't drilled/tapped?

 

it is drilled and tapped.. I used the little aluminum cap in there after the pic was taken.. It is to the right of the stat port and visible in the pic.

edit: I guess I should be more clear.. It's to the left of the bypass and right of the 'stat port.. It ISN'T to the right of the bypass and left of the right most mounting bolt tap.. It's there, but relocated a little from earlier kegs...

Does anyone want a Keg w/ a Hughes kit affixed? The one I have is un-modded, but I can mod it in no time and send it out.. If interested PM me and I'll wheel a deal for us!

 

I'd take you up on that offer but i hate our manifolds and the hughes kit ( band aid fix IMO) hate to do the job twice when i finally get my manifold, but NICE OFFER for someone out there for sure and he'll even mod it for ya.

 

I...I...I Think it is time I treat myself to an Airgap.

Very nice write-up there Drew. If possible, could you get a video of your truck accelerating?