ditto on how well it came out.

maybe you could do a Rattle-Can DIY of this scale. Just the basics on prep level (which vehicle specific b/c of condition), repeat your bulk purchase tip, and your final clear coat steps.

This could easily apply from full, large scale like you did to smaller stuff like hoods or w/e. Just a suggestion that I think may be handy for people. :thumbsup:

 

Thanks everyone for the props.

Here are some closeups. I took the tough spots (where it goes from flat to verticle, which is where drips tend to occur with cans or spray guns) to give you an idea how the many thin layers ends up staying drip free but giving full coverage.

unfortunately theres still some melted snow on the hood, but this is better than being in the full rain of the other day.








And here was my "pre-paint" planning thread: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...nge-ram-3.html

 

OK. I was already impressed that you did that on your driveway. But with a rattle can? Holy crap, Batman! That is REALLY good!

 

lets see how it looks in about a year after its been washed and had dirt on it..

yes right now it looks good and i've had a truck i spend about 3 days painting with rattle can and it doesn't alst long

 

looks great for a rattle job but it still needs some work, the up close pictures show it. Sand it again and throw clear on, and a good buff job and it will look ten times better.

good job still

 

I rattle can painted a trunk and spoiler in 2001 and 10 years later its actually not peeling or fading or anything, which is impressive for ANY paint job.

I rattle can painted my 3000GT in 2003 and sold it in 2009 and the paint was still in perfect condition, although there were a few drips from imperfect application. That was a 3 stage paint job also with flake

I also rattle canned my Motorcycle in 2009 and it still looks perfect today, and that was a three-stage paint job.

I've also done quite a few others, and prefer rattle can to spraying because its more forgiving

The problem isnt a rattle can... its the same paint you spray... the problem is prep, application, drying time, and paint selection.

You still have to be intelligent about your paint selection, You still have to properly prep the vehicle, and you still have to apply it properly. Most rattle can jobs don't follow proper prep, application, drying times, or paint selection. People presume because you are using a rattle can, they just want to get it over "quickly", but it is the same paint you use to spray!

I got a maacco paint job in 2000- Chunks were peeling off in MONTHS. Thats what got me doing it myself, so for arguments sake, I could say in my experience, rattle can jobs are much nicer and much more reliable than spray jobs But I won't argue that because I've sprayed a few too. Either way it comes down to prep, application, drying time, and paint selection. Maacco often fails to do proper prep, which is why the paint chips and peels.

 

Thats the game plan, but I need to wait about 30 days for the paint to fully cure

 

Will the moisture cause any problems with that?

 

Well yes and no....Not do dis your very nicly done economical paint job But the truth is rattle can paint is a low solid low VOC paint compared to real autopaint so while it may hold up well if babied and taken care of , It is not as durable and does not hold up as well as auto paint....It chips very easy and can soften with exposure to things like gas or birdcrap since it doesnt cure like modern auto paints do.. It also lacks the flex agents to compensate for expansion and contraction on any plastic or fiberglass conponents unless you use "plastic" spray paint.. it also scratches very easy with dust leaving swirl marks and is impossible to polish like real auto paint (I know my tailgate was rattlecanned with black enamel)
your truck looks great and may protect the metal fine if the original finish is still under it to help seal the metal but if anyone out there is thinking of sanding down their truck to metal and priming/ painting with rattlecan paint think twice because its more likely to chip and rust out the truck faster... thier are higher grades of rattlecan primer you can use under real paint but if you use the autostore stuff it will curl and shrivel right up under most modern auto paints. I'm no expert but I learned most of this from experience... the hard way.

 

The auto store here gives you the exact same paint whether you buy a gallon, a quart, or the rattle cans. They mix up whatever color you want and they assure me its the same PPG paint regardless of how you get it. They are a PPG platinum distributor, and I know other body shops who source their paint from the same auto store, and while you can argue whether PPG is the best or not, it is certainly one of the most widely used paints nation wide.

It should cure just like any other auto paint, so I'm going to have to respectfully disagree that just because it came out of a rattle can it is somehow not as good as the same paint out of a spray gun.