Warn actually sells the L bracket light tabs if you wanna pay like $30 a piece for them in black powdercoat or $50 a pop in stainless for something that the hardware store has for under $3...

 

Duct Tape!!!!

 

^lol
This is what I have. I was telling my dad about some of y'all's suggestions and this what he came up with:
Prototype 1


I've actually got Prototype 2 on it now and plan on changing it again today.
I think that if I go with a larger light, I will need to weld light tabs on, but for now, with the smaller lights, this will do with some good hardware.

Soo, twin 55 watt driving lights...I am going to overbuild this thing since I eventually want to put 100's in. So, 12 gauge wire from the lights to the battery and fuse box, right? Then 16 to the switch? 2 inline, 15 amp fuses (20 for 100's), and a 40a relay?
That all right?
How would I wire that into the factory PDC?

 

All you should need to know.... and then some...

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...nd-relays.html

 

^Thanks, done looked at it.

Alright, so I picked up most of my wiring supplies today. All I need now are inline fuse holders and a 40 amp relay still.
So, that brings me to the install...here is what I am thinking:
Run 2 hot and 2 ground wires from the lights; grounds bolt onto the existing body ground used for the battery; hot wires continue on to the relay where they both have inline 15 amp fuses. The relay will then have a single 14 ga wire going out to the battery with a 15 amp inline fuse in it. 18 ga wire with an inline fuse going to the cab, connecting to the switch, and the switch grounding somewhere in the cab. I also have to power the indicator inside the switch...how should I wire that?

Any of this sound like a good plan? Or is it too much overkill? I plan on possibly replacing the 55's and putting on 100's eventually. Thoughts?

 

*shameless self-bump*

Here is setup number 3....


Common guys! I need an answer on the wiring!

 

Me personally, i always overkill wiring. Id run 10 as your power source to the relay and 12 for everything else. Really not needed but thats just my opinion.

 

There's absolutely nothing wrong with a little over-kill on the wiring, but the wire going to the switch needn't be heavy at all when using a relay, it's only carrying about 3/10 of an amp to trip the relay on/off...

 

My stock fog light wiring from one light powers the relay for my bumper lights and the stock fog lights for just that reason. I'm not worried about melting the switch and actually took a bit of a load off it because I hooked the stock fog lights into that relay.
Eventually I'm going to wire my off road lights and high beams into relays (one relay for two off road lights and one high beam filament so it will be 265 watts (20 amp) per relay). Then I'll throw both low beams on one relay. So in the end all my lights will get their power directly from the battery.

 

Yeah, I'm currently tapping into my factory fog light switch to power both them and my pair of 130 watt off-road lights. Obviously the off-road lights are powered off of their own relay and fused accordingly, just using the shared switch...