The Camo Beast as it Evolves.
I misspoke, but slightly. It's the connecting rod between the transmission and the column shifter arm. Both in the engine bay, nicely tucked behind the brake booster.
That rod has to be removed, you'll love the grommets that hold it in on both ends. Take note of how it is installed beforehand to retain the clocking position. You have to cut it and weld a piece in to extend it. Again, maintain the clocking position so the ends are not oriented correctly otherwise you may not hook it back in. I didn't have this problem at all, but still like to mention it bc you can quickly mess it up once cutting it.
I used angle iron with clamps to keep both pieces straight and clocked properly. The rods clamped tightly into the corner.
That rod has to be removed, you'll love the grommets that hold it in on both ends. Take note of how it is installed beforehand to retain the clocking position. You have to cut it and weld a piece in to extend it. Again, maintain the clocking position so the ends are not oriented correctly otherwise you may not hook it back in. I didn't have this problem at all, but still like to mention it bc you can quickly mess it up once cutting it.
I used angle iron with clamps to keep both pieces straight and clocked properly. The rods clamped tightly into the corner.
What route are you going for the bumpers Corbo?I misspoke, but slightly. It's the connecting rod between the transmission and the column shifter arm. Both in the engine bay, nicely tucked behind the brake booster.
That rod has to be removed, you'll love the grommets that hold it in on both ends. Take note of how it is installed beforehand to retain the clocking position. You have to cut it and weld a piece in to extend it. Again, maintain the clocking position so the ends are not oriented correctly otherwise you may not hook it back in. I didn't have this problem at all, but still like to mention it bc you can quickly mess it up once cutting it.
I used angle iron with clamps to keep both pieces straight and clocked properly. The rods clamped tightly into the corner.
That rod has to be removed, you'll love the grommets that hold it in on both ends. Take note of how it is installed beforehand to retain the clocking position. You have to cut it and weld a piece in to extend it. Again, maintain the clocking position so the ends are not oriented correctly otherwise you may not hook it back in. I didn't have this problem at all, but still like to mention it bc you can quickly mess it up once cutting it.
I used angle iron with clamps to keep both pieces straight and clocked properly. The rods clamped tightly into the corner.
I misspoke, but slightly. It's the connecting rod between the transmission and the column shifter arm. Both in the engine bay, nicely tucked behind the brake booster.
That rod has to be removed, you'll love the grommets that hold it in on both ends. Take note of how it is installed beforehand to retain the clocking position. You have to cut it and weld a piece in to extend it. Again, maintain the clocking position so the ends are not oriented correctly otherwise you may not hook it back in. I didn't have this problem at all, but still like to mention it bc you can quickly mess it up once cutting it.
I used angle iron with clamps to keep both pieces straight and clocked properly. The rods clamped tightly into the corner.
That rod has to be removed, you'll love the grommets that hold it in on both ends. Take note of how it is installed beforehand to retain the clocking position. You have to cut it and weld a piece in to extend it. Again, maintain the clocking position so the ends are not oriented correctly otherwise you may not hook it back in. I didn't have this problem at all, but still like to mention it bc you can quickly mess it up once cutting it.
I used angle iron with clamps to keep both pieces straight and clocked properly. The rods clamped tightly into the corner.
How about the transfer case shifter? I haven't looked at it lately. Does it pivot off the frame or the body? If the frame I'm thinkin that it dropping down 3" would cause many problems. What did you do here?
Last edited by corbo1962; Jun 1, 2014 at 07:48 PM.
[QUOTE=Johnn123;3170611]Oooo cant wait to see!
What route are you going for the bumpers Corbo?]
I think I'm gonna start with 3" driveshaft tubing like the roll bar. There will be 1 piece on both front and rear that gets tucked as tightly to the truck as possible. Then probably 2.5" to 2" to drop down and contour on the front with the winch being tucked in on the front between the two. I think I'm going to try and stick a couple of shorty flood LED light bars flush in the angled sides, To throw light off into your turning. On the back, I will copy WK and raise the receiver up and the same size lower bar from the front, I'll trim the rear in a simular fashion. At least thats the direction i'm thinkin now. Not sure how I'm going to do the rock sliders and steps on the sides yet. Kinda thinkin about putting 1" receivers in the sides of the rock sliders and making the steps removable for when you go extreme.
What route are you going for the bumpers Corbo?]I think I'm gonna start with 3" driveshaft tubing like the roll bar. There will be 1 piece on both front and rear that gets tucked as tightly to the truck as possible. Then probably 2.5" to 2" to drop down and contour on the front with the winch being tucked in on the front between the two. I think I'm going to try and stick a couple of shorty flood LED light bars flush in the angled sides, To throw light off into your turning. On the back, I will copy WK and raise the receiver up and the same size lower bar from the front, I'll trim the rear in a simular fashion. At least thats the direction i'm thinkin now. Not sure how I'm going to do the rock sliders and steps on the sides yet. Kinda thinkin about putting 1" receivers in the sides of the rock sliders and making the steps removable for when you go extreme.
Last edited by corbo1962; Jun 1, 2014 at 11:00 PM.


