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I got a 40 dollar one off of amazon... should do the trick.
Sadly enough the replacement plenum bolts are the same size as the OEM bolts so I have to shave them all down I guess..
Only if you are putting the steel pan back on. Could always go to the hardware store, and pick up a handful of shorter one. Probably less than five bucks.
the HF torque wrenches are usually within .5%. Close enough.
I am putting the steel pan back on. I put my angle grinder in the vice upside down and shaved off the non-threaded portion of the end of the bolts like I read in another thread - will that be sufficient?
Originally Posted by HeyYou
Only if you are putting the steel pan back on. Could always go to the hardware store, and pick up a handful of shorter one. Probably less than five bucks.
the HF torque wrenches are usually within .5%. Close enough.
They're threaded in with the sequence written on the plate with a sharpie waiting patiently to be torqued when the wrench gets here. Then it all goes back together.
I was doing the spark plug wire TSB and fiddling with one of the clips that goes over the valve cover bolts and the thing was so lose it unscrewed almost on its own.
Next RockAuto order = valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket - I'm going to run this oil for a day then drop the pan and change the oil and gasket.
Trans fluid changed, doorman kit bolt length pic, and plenum pan is ready to rock:
Originally Posted by HeyYou
Yep. That'll work just fine. Be sure and use a GOOD quality gasket, and proper torque procedures.
Last edited by scottw99; Mar 31, 2016 at 06:53 PM.
The hole in the thermostat flange is to let the trapped air out. It's hard to get the air out of the heater core otherwise. Looks like the project is going good. Do you have any idea what brand oil the previous owner was using?
The hole in the thermostat flange is to let the trapped air out. It's hard to get the air out of the heater core otherwise. Looks like the project is going good. Do you have any idea what brand oil the previous owner was using?
Okay I'll check it out tomorrow when I put the thermostat and housing back on the intake.
Trans oil I'm not sure, I can look through receipts to see if it was ever changed.
I can look through them for engine oil brand too. I have stickers and the service manual saying 5w-30 synthetic for recent years.
Thanks! I'm hoping to have the intake back on and the truck running tomorrow before moving on.
I hope everything goes smooth for you tomorrow. There's a thread on burping the coolant system, but if you drill the hole the air should come out on it's own.
Thank you! I found a receipt that shows QS5w30 (Guessing Quaker State) oil used for a previous service. Most of the oil changes were done at the same place so it's probably been that oil.
Originally Posted by 2bit
I hope everything goes smooth for you tomorrow. There's a thread on burping the coolant system, but if you drill the hole the air should come out on it's own.
I'm surprised the internal engine is that dirty running Quaker State.
That's what neglected oil changes and/or PCV valves look like. The oil brand doesn't matter nearly as much as the neglect. In fact, the oil brand doesn't matter much at all in an internally stock small block Magnum as long as it's of the correct API spec and weight. What matters most is changing the oil when you should.
