Hi folks. I've been reading here on & off a bit and finally registered. From what I've seen so far I'm guessing this one goes here, sorry if not.

I was hoping to get some opinions on parts. I've found a few threads on search that have helped a lot narrowing down some options, so thanks for those.

My truck info is in my sig. I'm not looking to do a whole lot right now as family costs come first, but I'm doing a tune-up due to a possible change of station and figured I'd do some changes/upgrades while at it.

I currently have an aFe CAI intake with a dry filter and a different brand intake vortex block (that'll likely come off soon, limited (if any) improvement but adds height to work around). On the exit end I have a custom exhaust with I believe 2.5" pipes going into a Magnaflow hi-flow cat then a Magnaflow performance muffler, leading out to dual 3" tips out the back.

My goal right now is to pretty much top off a 'Stage 1' type setup. So my main focus is on ignition and likely changing out some smaller easy-access items such as PCV valve, possibly TPS sensor, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, cooling hoses, etc.

After some general reading, and some more specific reading of threads on here, I'm looking at going with NGK 6441 Iridium IX spark plugs, Taylor Thundervolt 8.2mm spark plug wires, MSD 8228 Blaster coil (with required Accel adapter), Accel distributor cap, and Accel Heavy Duty rotor.

I'm also likely going to get the Hughes Plenum kit with the FelPro gaskets to hopefully take care of any issue there. Maybe a larger throttle body if funds allow.

A tuner isn't in the plans at the moment, but may reconsider if the Superchips-type crowd think it's worth it and it's not much. More than a hundred or two and I might as well go with a better reprogrammable one, which has to wait for later.

Outside the engine bay I currently have Monroe Reflex shocks & struts. While they've been ok, I've been thinking of changing to another brand to see how it goes. I'm thinking either Rancho RS5000s or RS 9000s, or Bilstein 5100s. I do a bit of off-roading, some towing, but mostly just daily driving/some light hauling. Would those be an improvement, or stick with the Reflex set?

I'm also getting an ABS dash piece from Geno's Garage as mine recently cracked all to Hades. Debating getting the heater core & A/C evaporator done while it's out, but not sure as they still work (although probably not at full strength).

I currently have BFGoodrich All-Terrain tires on it. They're 285s. I know, too large, but it's what I get for trusting a tire store employee to actually know a proper size. They do ok, just grind a bit at full turn lock which I rarely do. So looking to drop down to at least 265s. It has a stock lift (far as I know, got it that way).

Down the road I'd like to look into cams, possibly a 408 stroker upgrade or something, all that fun stuff. But for now the heavier mods will have to be on standby. :/

Thanks for any input!

 

The 'vortex block', otherwise known as a throttle body spacer, does absolutely nothing on any port injected engine. There is no fuel mixing with the air there, and by the time the air gets to where there IS fuel, its less than an inch from the intake valve.

Also do the timing chain and gears when you do the plenum. It's a couple more bolts, and there you are.

I think the only tuners that are commonly available for our trucks are indeed programmable. (in that, you can load different tunes onto the tuner...... but, you can't edit the tunes yourself, except for maybe a couple parameters....) Think they are running 350-450 for three canned tunes. Hemifever, or Flyin' Ryan are the two most popular for dodge trucks.

The bilstein 5100s get really good reviews from folks here.

Skip the rare-earth plugs, and just go with some good copper cores. The RE fellers are really hit and miss on these trucks, but, the coppers are stone reliable.

May also consider shorty headers. They are direct bolt-ons, and will give you a bit more grunt in the mid range.

The Harland Sharp 1.7 ratio roller rockers are another good bolt-on. Good for 10hp/tq on an otherwise stock motor.

Do the heater/evap core while the dash is out. It just doesn't get any easier. Besides, if you DON'T do it while its out, you can bet your bottom dollar that one or bother will fail within a week of putting it back together.

 

Yeah, I was starting to guess that not long after putting it on. Just been too lazy to take it off since it doesn't seem to hurt either. lol

Hughes has a chain kit right? Never gotten into it much. I've had a couple of local mechanics tell me not to worry about it if nothing's wrong, but like you say if already there...

My last round with plugs I went with the stock Champion copper ones. Seems a toss-up between those, the NGKs, or Autolites on a couple of forums. I liked NGKs in my car & motorcycle so figured I'd try that route, but if the coppers are still the best I can stick with the Champions. Cheaper anyway.

Thanks for the other recommendations. Not sure the budget will be there for those two but will keep them in mind.

 

I went with the SA Gear timing set, from my local advance auto parts store. It was under 50 bucks, and I didn't have to pay shipping either. (.25 pitch, double roller chain. Very nice piece)

The stock chains are the morse style. Flat links, no rollers. They are VERY prone to stretching, and as they stretch, your timing gets further and further off. I was very pleasantly surprised at how much better my truck ran after changing it. (and that was the only change made at the time, so I know it was all from the chain.) Of course, mine had north of 170K miles on it at the time.... so, it was REALLY stretched out.

And: Welcome to DF!

 

I recommend copper plugs, 7-8mm wires, brass cap and rotor but keep stock coil. Too many stories of msd coils leaving owners stranded.

You already opening up exhaust and have some sort of air intake system. Should be fine there.

Only do the plenum if its shot. Otherwise save money and time.

Only do timing chain if you want. Otherwise save money and time.

I recommend gas shocks over water (hydros). Much better ride.

Going down to 265s will help in power and driveability. Not to mention cheaper.

No opinions on headers or rockers. Although some have found good results, it's your money.

Instead of covering up a cracking dash that will still fall apart, get the new dash from LMC. Direct fit, great look, and not bad to install. Couple hundred bucks and about 4 hrs you have a new dash.

 

Thanks. I went looking and found a .250 double roller that looks like it should be decent on Amazon. They had some SAs there but reportedly not that would fit mine. Advance has a store brand (or similar) for about $55 but not in stock so might as well order with the rest of the stuff. Might not need to, but it's not overly pricey and like you said if it's that close there won't be much extra labor involved. Piece of mind et al.

Timing Set

Cap & rotor set are brass, made sure of that. It seemed a tossup between MSD or stock coils, but MSDs have had issue stories vs the stock. But also some reports of better performance. I'll stick with the stock if it's not much of a difference. Any recommendations, or just any general OEM? Seem to be a lot of 'stock' options under $25.

'Stock' coil

From what I've read of symptoms and the mileage I've a hunch it's shot. So I figure get it out of the way once & for all (hopefully) and find out.

I'll check into the ones I'm looking at for shocks. I think I usually prefer gas as well, but haven't read into the ones I've posted. Those are just what I'm using now and very common ones others use.

Nope, no headers or rockers for now.

I'm not covering the dash, I'm replacing. And that was tricky to find. Almost everyone seems to sell covers, no thanks. Still a chance for broken plastic pieces to fall in and whatnot, not extra noises I need. The ABS piece from Geno's is a full replacement (that has to be painted, but that's minor). And the ABS is supposed to hold up a lot better than the stock plastic. But I'll check into this LMC, don't think I've heard of it? Sounds like they're about the same price.

Thanks!

 

Well seems like your on the right path with a good tune up/refresh. You can take a dremmel after the throttle body air horns and such. There's a diy somewhere about that.....
Definitely consider a tune when you can (I know families are expensive and a priority). I personally have hemifever tunes, he just released a new tunes for our trucks (free to anyone with his old tunes) and its a big improvement over his old ones I had run. He's been really good to me over the years. A newcomer to the tuning scene is flyin ryan performance. I haven't run his stuff but its been high regarded.

I see that ffdynamics just dropped the e-fan kit for our trucks down to $275 recently as well.

 

I've seen mention of FRP a time or two. They both seem to use SCT-base tuners. Probably still have to wait but if I can upgrade the tune with the device could be worth getting a starter one earlier.

I've read a spot or two about electric fan setups but not sure what the difference is supposed to be, unless it's more accurate activation/turnoff. Even if that's lower it's still one that'll have to wait a bit either way. Thanks though!

 

The ffdynamics kits seems good. You could build your own kit cheaper. The idea of electric fans is to take the load off the motor as well as being able to move max air no matter what engine speed. A fan can draw up to 25hp at max load. At partial throttle that is significant. Also it saves you wear on the water pump. I've heard you can free up 10hp and 1-2mpg going to electric fans.

 

And your a/c works better too.