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Run a reasonable amount of boost, and even a stock motor won't mind it overmuch. Of course, forced induction WILL require some custom tuning.
yea custom tuning was in the books, although i was looking at flyinryan so i would have to have this decision made before purchasing tuning as he charges different for boosted tuning. I do want to look around more locally too and see what is available for tuning just to be more readily available to dial it in and dyno tune, i found that ebay all in one kit but not sure how i feel about it, would like to find someone that has purchased one to see how everything fits together and such. Racingramfam on youtube is went all custom on his and has the hood cutout and everything i definitely want a more concealed sleeper look with mine
wondering about maybe getting some shorty headers and flipping em see how they line up under the hood
something else thats come to mind is doing a hydroboost conversion to free up some engine bay space and im assuming once the engine is boosted a vacuum pump would be required to maintain vacuum functions, cruise, brakes, vents, 4x4 ect definitely not building a racing truck and eliminating those functions. I think a little vacuum pump from an early 3rd gen cummins would be sufficient for those functions but not the brakes
Wonder if you could just place your vacuum source before whatever you use for boost...... May or may not work..... Vacuum pump certainly will though, provided you can find a place to mount it/drive it. Electric vacuum pump maybe??
Swapping to hydraboost will indeed give you a bit more room under the hood, but, there is some additional plumbing involved with that, granted, I think most of the additional hoses are available wherever car parts are sold. Might need to get a bit creative with routing though. (personally, I am a big fan of hydraboot, I like the brake feel MUCH better than vacuum boost.) Also eliminates the biggest vacuum draw.
Wonder if you could just place your vacuum source before whatever you use for boost...... May or may not work..... Vacuum pump certainly will though, provided you can find a place to mount it/drive it. Electric vacuum pump maybe??
Swapping to hydraboost will indeed give you a bit more room under the hood, but, there is some additional plumbing involved with that, granted, I think most of the additional hoses are available wherever car parts are sold. Might need to get a bit creative with routing though. (personally, I am a big fan of hydraboot, I like the brake feel MUCH better than vacuum boost.) Also eliminates the biggest vacuum draw.
It shouldn't be to bad I'm thinking, I did read about using a Cummins ps reservoir as it has 2 return ports versus using a Y coupling but thats later detail. I have a cab from a 2000 2500 Cummins truck sitting here though its been exposed to the elements for 5 years so might not be function anymore, wondering if there's any pressure differences to be concerned about. long as I stay 2000 or older both truck would've had RWABS only and rear drums, not really something I want to do but I suppose I could consider 2500 axles, that little 9 1/4' probably wont be enjoying 500+
I though I thought I read somewhere in the area of 700-1000 psi difference between vac and hydra boost. Completely rebuilding the brakes was already a serious consideration as these are very rusty and have been sitting and likely seized. Possibly a rear disc conversion or 3rd gen 1500 axles, though 3rd gens went IFS in front on half tons?
I will definitely be leaning towards the electric vac pump, though maybe a belt driven one from an early pac brake kit on the Cummins would mount up easily. Cross that bridge later. Actually the more I think about this the hydra boost conversion will be happening no matter what. I do agree with you brakes always feel way better in my diesels than gassers, even my old 5.7 diesel caddy had a hydra boost and it was a way better feeling
Last edited by dodgetruck2; Nov 21, 2021 at 10:04 AM.
Not sure why the diesel would run higher pressure... but, I just don't know a lot about diesels.... Wonder if you could change the flow control valve to correct that??
well side tracked but scored a wood grain interior for a 98, bezel and door panels pretty excited about that, its frustrating that 98 bezels are slightly different although I prefer em to the 99+ dash layout
well side tracked but scored a wood grain interior for a 98, bezel and door panels pretty excited about that, its frustrating that 98 bezels are slightly different although I prefer em to the 99+ dash layout
For some reason when I saw you got wood grain, you wrote "interior" but I saw "Exterior". I haven't seen wood grain sides in years.
Well this showed up today, pretty excited about it, I'd imagine most people don't give a hoot about it lol
Long as I'm going in the direction of turning this into a Laramie plus, not sure that really existed yet in 98, but I was wondering if there was possibility of adding the highline console vs the 94-97 base one it has with just compass/temp. I have a highline console from a newer model. I did do an install on my 02 2500 back in the day that had no console, it was pretty simple as there was a can plug under the dash for the highline already and I just had to wire it into the fuse panel ect for the other functions and plug the temp sensor in under the hood. I'm not sure 98MY had the can plug yet or even the functionality of it? I do not see the connection under the dash.
Ill have to look some more. If the wiring is there no CTM is needed I dont believe. I'm also wondering about a racerback. Ive found a couple but they say fitment for a x-cab. I dont see where the fitment should be much different going on a regular cab?