1998 dodge ram 1500 53k miles upper and lower ball joints tires and soon to need a trans (lots of metal shavings in the pan both times checked only a month apart)

 

1999 Dodge Ram 2500 with the 5.9 V8
196827 miles
so far ive done the plenum and a tuneup since ive had it. as far as problems its had before i got it are, it needing a computer because it has a "ghost" check engine light, right wheel hub assembly and axle seal leaking, right lower ball joint, it was broken into, transmission was rebuilt, and pretty much just the common maintenance parts for the age and mileage. Oh and it needs the a/c clutch because it wont stay engaged. Love my truck tho!

 

A cycling A/C clutch... I'd check the charge before replacing the clutch.

 

Yes i checked the charge, it was low a little low but had enough to where it shouldve cycled, i jumped the lowside switch and it still wouldnt start, i then checked to see if i was getting voltage at the plug for the clutch and it was reading 13.something volts. My next step was taking the shim out for the armature while i was doing the plenum. once i did that it started working, but would cycle, added more freon and stopped the cycling. at an idle the a/c worked great! i let it sit and it got coooold in the truck but once i started driving i think the clutch slips. i downloaded sanden's service manual and heres what i found

1. Air gaps exceeding 0.051” (1.3 mm) can prevent
engagement. This often is noticed after the clutch
and compressor temperature is heated through
normal use. Refer to section 8.2.6 for more
information setting correct gap.

skip to 8.2.6

8.2.6 Air Gap Conformation
1. Check air gap with feeler gauge. Specification is 0.016" -
0.031" (0.4 - 0.8mm). If gap is not even around the clutch,
gently tap down at the high spots.
2. If the overall gap is out of spec., remove the armature
assembly and change the shims as necessary

i still need to get offset feeler gauges to check the air gap correctly but i have a feeling its going to be greater then 0.031"

 

1997 2500 Auto V10 4x4 w/57,900 miles

So far its had its transfer case replaced, needs a front drive shaft, tires, and the interior defunked from its life time on the farm.

 

Bought a 1998 2500 SLT Laramie with only 34K. No spark. After weeks of fiddling with it, we determined it was the crank sensor (I hope). Decided to sell it and doubled my money. Took that and bought a 1999 2500 with 217K. Absolutely bare-bones stock (no A/C and a 5 speed standard). This one has the death wobble, but other than that, it runs pretty good. Nothing fancy, just a good ol' work truck.

 

Just hit 253,600 in the diesel. K.

Jigs is right as usual, but if he keeps catching me at stuff, I'm gonna get a white cowl hood and paint everything white. Cummins!

Edit 1. The old 98 360 has been pulling the load all week, with the Cummins in the shop. The fuel mileage is back up to 12.6 MPG!

Edit 2. The old 98 360 4x4 to Louisville and return 240 miles, 13.2 MPG'S (due to detours, only 15 miles interstate).

 

87,750 changed the serpetine belt last year no problems since except it needed and oil and trans fluid change.

 

288,500

 

250,098 miles on the cummins