how hard is it to swap heads
Im trying to price out everything i need for swaping to the eddie 202 heads. I havent done heads before, so i dont know whats involved, but im not affraid to tackle it as long as i have the proper tools. on a scale of 1-10 how bad is it?
5-ish. not terrible. a lot like the plenum repair, but just keep going deeper. take the fan off so you can climb over inside, pull up a picnic table to hold things. only special tool i can think of is a torque wrench, valve spring compressor. i don't think the timing cover has to come off, but if timing chain has not been changed, this would be a good time to do it. you'll need harmonic balance remover (buy or borrow) and air gun to get the bolt off. allow several days.
You should be able to get heads that already ahve springs/rockers on them. Its not hard, just all unbolt and rebolt. I'd say 5ish too.
Its not hard, I pulled apart that 400 I bought completely apart down to bare block in about 30mins. Given it was out of a vehicle and on an engine stand, but still. Not to hard.
Its not hard, I pulled apart that 400 I bought completely apart down to bare block in about 30mins. Given it was out of a vehicle and on an engine stand, but still. Not to hard.
ORIGINAL: dhvaughan
5-ish. not terrible. a lot like the plenum repair, but just keep going deeper. take the fan off so you can climb over inside, pull up a picnic table to hold things. only special tool i can think of is a torque wrench, valve spring compressor. i don't think the timing cover has to come off, but if timing chain has not been changed, this would be a good time to do it. you'll need harmonic balance remover (buy or borrow) and air gun to get the bolt off. allow several days.
5-ish. not terrible. a lot like the plenum repair, but just keep going deeper. take the fan off so you can climb over inside, pull up a picnic table to hold things. only special tool i can think of is a torque wrench, valve spring compressor. i don't think the timing cover has to come off, but if timing chain has not been changed, this would be a good time to do it. you'll need harmonic balance remover (buy or borrow) and air gun to get the bolt off. allow several days.
ORIGINAL: Socha_62
You should be able to get heads that already ahve springs/rockers on them. Its not hard, just all unbolt and rebolt. I'd say 5ish too.
Its not hard, I pulled apart that 400 I bought completely apart down to bare block in about 30mins. Given it was out of a vehicle and on an engine stand, but still. Not to hard.
You should be able to get heads that already ahve springs/rockers on them. Its not hard, just all unbolt and rebolt. I'd say 5ish too.
Its not hard, I pulled apart that 400 I bought completely apart down to bare block in about 30mins. Given it was out of a vehicle and on an engine stand, but still. Not to hard.
Studs and guideplates are pretty simple. The heads will already be drilled and tapped for them. You just have to make sure that the slot in the guide plate is aligned prefectly with the valve stem. Who are you buying the heads from? They should be able to tell you wich studs and plateyou'll need. Get the part #'s and shop around. I think Indy might have bolted Eddy's on a stock bottom, so he can probably get you close on pushrod length.
You may as well do a cam while you're in there. You know you will down the road anyway
You may as well do a cam while you're in there. You know you will down the road anyway

ORIGINAL: mopowar
Studs and guideplates are pretty simple. The heads will already be drilled and tapped for them. You just have to make sure that the slot in the guide plate is aligned prefectly with the valve stem. Who are you buying the heads from? They should be able to tell you wich studs and plateyou'll need. Get the part #'s and shop around. I think Indy might have bolted Eddy's on a stock bottom, so he can probably get you close on pushrod length.
You may as well do a cam while you're in there. You know you will down the road anyway
Studs and guideplates are pretty simple. The heads will already be drilled and tapped for them. You just have to make sure that the slot in the guide plate is aligned prefectly with the valve stem. Who are you buying the heads from? They should be able to tell you wich studs and plateyou'll need. Get the part #'s and shop around. I think Indy might have bolted Eddy's on a stock bottom, so he can probably get you close on pushrod length.
You may as well do a cam while you're in there. You know you will down the road anyway

ORIGINAL: lv360ram
[sm=nxsmile.gif]Just pull the engine and do everything.
[sm=nxsmile.gif]Just pull the engine and do everything.
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yea i wouldnt dream of doing a headswap with the watered down stock cam still in there. good lord. :P. I would prolly get them from summit, unless someone knows where i can get them cheeper than 750 per.
ORIGINAL: mopowar
Is that 750 per bare head? Depending on how green you really are, you could probably work yourself into a swirled and assemled set for $1900 - $2000 or so. That with springs that could handle .600 @ 6k
yea i wouldnt dream of doing a headswap with the watered down stock cam still in there. good lord. :P. I would prolly get them from summit, unless someone knows where i can get them cheeper than 750 per.
on a side note...what do i need to do to be able to get the motor to rev to 6500 safely.
Everything has to be taken into consideration, but, as far as the Eddies go, valve springs.What cam are you going to put in there? Rockers, rods? Suprisingly, Mopar says that thier performance lifters will wind up to 7 grand with no risk of pump at all. Mostly, as far as safety is concerned, you need to look at your a/f. If you're going to run at 6.5k, just a little detonation will blow your ****e up. With a stock bottom and even a flashed pcm I would look to stay in the 5.8k range. If you want to run higher, I would think a stand alone efi controller might be in order. Either that or a carburetor and a flat tappet cam w/ solid lifters.



