Tune Time
Soooo many questions...
Its tune up time and I want to change out the plugs, wires, dist. cap and rotor.
1. What brand plugs do you guys recommend. Chrysler products always used Champ. but I'm seeing more and more references to Autolite.
2. How in the world do I reach the #^$&% distributor; they buried the thing! It looks like I may have to take the TB off and re-situate the main harness cable just to SEE it. THEN, not having gorilla arms, I don't know if I can reach it without trying to climb around in the engine compartment. I think I need a fidget monkey!
3. Would like to upgrade to a higher performance ignition system. What do you guys recommend?
4. 77K miles and am thinking about using a motor flush before the oil change. Are these usefull or harmfull? Should I waste my money on an off the shelf product or use mineral spirits?
I'm sure there's alot of other questions that I'll have but these are some starters.
Its tune up time and I want to change out the plugs, wires, dist. cap and rotor.
1. What brand plugs do you guys recommend. Chrysler products always used Champ. but I'm seeing more and more references to Autolite.
2. How in the world do I reach the #^$&% distributor; they buried the thing! It looks like I may have to take the TB off and re-situate the main harness cable just to SEE it. THEN, not having gorilla arms, I don't know if I can reach it without trying to climb around in the engine compartment. I think I need a fidget monkey!
3. Would like to upgrade to a higher performance ignition system. What do you guys recommend?
4. 77K miles and am thinking about using a motor flush before the oil change. Are these usefull or harmfull? Should I waste my money on an off the shelf product or use mineral spirits?
I'm sure there's alot of other questions that I'll have but these are some starters.
The plugs have been talked about before but as far as wires go, I went with the MSD 8.5 Super Conductor wires. They made an improvement in mpg. You can change these even with T-rex arms.
If you're going to do the cap and rotor, I've heard the Mopar stuff is best. Not sure about getting to it though cause I've never done mine.
I put on the Accel coil several years ago and it didn't make any difference over stock.
If you're going to do the cap and rotor, I've heard the Mopar stuff is best. Not sure about getting to it though cause I've never done mine.
I put on the Accel coil several years ago and it didn't make any difference over stock.
ok here is the answers in order.
1.go the cool range autolights 3923
2. climb on top of the engine unplug the sensor on the back of the tb
3.I have used msd 6a in the past with ok results on a 68 dart.
4.motor flush is fine but I recomend warming the engine first then adding the flush for the time recomended then imeadiatly drain oil so stuff does not settle down again.
and lastly use the mp cap rotor and wires they fit properly I have had problems in the past with other manufactures. Also use a synthetic motor oil and change to a 180* stat.
I cannot say what my motor was really like before I changed all my stuff because I had a blown plenum gasket. But now I do not get above 150* and the truck feels like it has 80 hp more A great improvement over what it was!
1.go the cool range autolights 3923
2. climb on top of the engine unplug the sensor on the back of the tb
3.I have used msd 6a in the past with ok results on a 68 dart.
4.motor flush is fine but I recomend warming the engine first then adding the flush for the time recomended then imeadiatly drain oil so stuff does not settle down again.
and lastly use the mp cap rotor and wires they fit properly I have had problems in the past with other manufactures. Also use a synthetic motor oil and change to a 180* stat.
I cannot say what my motor was really like before I changed all my stuff because I had a blown plenum gasket. But now I do not get above 150* and the truck feels like it has 80 hp more A great improvement over what it was!
Thanks for the great replies. Want to clean out the TB anyway so I guess I'll remove it and make life a little easier at the distributor.
Does the multi-spark system really do wonders on these engines? These days, I'll take ANY kind of improvements in performance or mileage.
WC
Does the multi-spark system really do wonders on these engines? These days, I'll take ANY kind of improvements in performance or mileage.WC
1. If time is money, the use of a double platinum more than doubles the time on electrode wear (i.e.: run twice as long on the same plugs). I use Autolite App5224 double platinum (5.9L Magnum) on my '95, my '86 ran the same ones.
2. Always run at LEAST 8mm wires, Accel makes decent ones but I prefer Taylor, for one they're cheaper, for two I believe they're actually 10.2mm, never a performance problem here.
3. For cap and rotor, splurge $5 extra and get the High Performance model ($15 total), you will feel the difference. Not the Heavy or Extra Duty one, make sure it's High Performance (can't remember but I think it's made by Accel, maybe Mallory).
I can't afford crappy spark with today's fuel prices, the extra $100 spent on parts is well worth it.
Other notes: Before you go tearing into the TB or any other engine parts, you better be real careful with that aluminum block crap, it is all too easy to strip a bolt hole, it happens to me almost every time I work on aluminum crap I always seem to strip one [sm=smiley7.gif]
Honestly, you want to clean out your fuel-related systems, run a high quality name brand Super Unleaded the next dozen tank FULLS (no holding back here), I think it's money well spent vs. the aggravation of stripping aluminum parts.
2. Always run at LEAST 8mm wires, Accel makes decent ones but I prefer Taylor, for one they're cheaper, for two I believe they're actually 10.2mm, never a performance problem here.
3. For cap and rotor, splurge $5 extra and get the High Performance model ($15 total), you will feel the difference. Not the Heavy or Extra Duty one, make sure it's High Performance (can't remember but I think it's made by Accel, maybe Mallory).
I can't afford crappy spark with today's fuel prices, the extra $100 spent on parts is well worth it.
Other notes: Before you go tearing into the TB or any other engine parts, you better be real careful with that aluminum block crap, it is all too easy to strip a bolt hole, it happens to me almost every time I work on aluminum crap I always seem to strip one [sm=smiley7.gif]
Honestly, you want to clean out your fuel-related systems, run a high quality name brand Super Unleaded the next dozen tank FULLS (no holding back here), I think it's money well spent vs. the aggravation of stripping aluminum parts.




