I finially got around to getting new tires. I wanted to get it aligned while the tires were getting put on but pepboys was having issues with it. I took it to the place where I got it a little used car dealer to have them do it and I get a call this morning from them telling me my track bar is all messed up. They said the bar itself would be $200 and with installition and the alignment it would be $400 something. Where can I get one at a good price and how hard is it to fix myself? I'm gonna call the dealer where i get all my Mustang parts cause they are teh sheapest Ford place around and now sell Dodge's to see what price they give me for one but was wondering if you guys have any ideas.





As for tires i went with 285/75R16 Definity Dakota M/T's once I get some good pics I'll post some up

 

this is what i did and it worked great! it was easy to do! cost $70.00 on ebay
http://ramchargercentral.com/index.p...owtoshow;id=79

HOPE THIS HELPS YOU OUT!
THE GOOSE

 

Great link, Goose! Every time I can beat the pros or shops price I'll do it. If only more of us would photo our projects like that!

Rusty

 

After taking my truck to have the alignment done many years ago and it still pulling to the left and permanent scratches in my right fender, I do alignments myself in my driveway with a torpedo level and tape measure. I did my Dakota over 40,000 miles ago when I got new tires. It still drives itself straight when I take my hands off the steering wheel and after only rotating the tires once they are wearing flat and uniformly. I have had similar results with three other vehicles. If anyone is interested I will post the procedure.

 

I also do that, but not familiar with torpedo. I still considerthis procedure for just good enough to get to the Alignment Shop after suspension repair, though. Absolutely post the procedure! Sounds like you're the man! I try to get about 1/16 in tow in to drive straight but hard to get that precise with my tape measure.

 

And lv360ram, where'd you get your Superchips programmer?

 

autoanything.com $299.95 total

 

http://www.thurenfabrication.com/stocktb.html

try one of these....

 

Front end alignment
I use a torpedo level, piece of 1" flat stock, a tape measure, and two pieces of angle iron.
Some center caps stick out past the lip of the rim, so I cut the flatstock so it fits as shown in picture against the rim lip but missing the center cap.
Assuming an A arm was removed for ball joints or bushings, reinstall it so the caster/camber adjust bolts are somewhat centered in their range of adjustment.
With truck sitting on flat, level (doesn't have to be perfect) surfacecheck the camber.
First use the level to get the flatstock vertical (1st pic) then use the level to check the camber(2nd pic).( Most torpedo levels have a V cut for pipes and the flatstock fits in the V) Zero camber is bubble centered perfectly between lines. I initially set the camber close to zero.
I measure the toe using two pieces on angle iron horizontally across the outside of each wheel just below the centercap. Initially, I set the toe +/- 1/8".
Drive the truck on a flat road. Does it pull left or right? Yes? then caster needs to be adjusted.
Ever have a truck that pulls to the left and it seems like the left side is "lower" than the right? The left side needs more caster. Increase caster by moving the top of the wheel toward the back of the truck. It will effectively raise that corner and it won't seem lower when you drive it again. I am a bit of a perfectionist so I drive and adjust and drive and adjust caster until it goes straight when I take my hands off the wheel. When you move the wheel to adjust caster, check and set the camber to zero at the same time.
In summary:
whichever side the truck pulls to, that side needs more caster.
changing caster can affect camber, set them simultaneously.
set toe to the spec for your vehicle.

This seems like a very rough inaccurate method but based on the even, uniform tire wear I have seen on several vehicles I can't see the advantage of the fancy alignment rack. Some vehicles don't spec the camber to be zero. Negative camber is top of wheel in toward engine and positive camber is top of wheel out away from engine. Initially it may be confusing but after several adjustments the light bulb will come on above your head.[sm=lol.gif]


[IMG]local://upfiles/58523/822145923B4B4E37A658163A31966A6C.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/58523/CABA28B4FBE94601AF798829D0EABA2F.jpg[/IMG]