Wayne C,
The trans shop tech told me that they did not recomend flushes. It created more problems than it cured. I asked them if they would do it at a customers request. The reply was that they didn't have the equipment. Mind you, this is a highly recomended trans shop in the area. I don't know. I do know my background in manufacturing machine maintenance we tried to keep the hydraulic oil changed and filtered. We found that flushing sometimes caused particles that had passed through the system would sometimes return to the valve bodies and cause them to malfunction. Right now I am clueless. I tried at the dealer to get the vacuum check valves. The only way they list them is with the entire HVAC / Cruise Control Vacuum harness. I also checked on the availability and cost of the TPS. $80.00!!! I checked on line and the first site I looked at priced the TPS out at $46.25. No, I am not replacing anything without checking it out. That's why I started with the trans and the engine alert. I had planned to replace the check valves, then test the TPS. I do have a nice Fluke (digital)Volt/Ohm meter and an older Simpson analog meter. I'm just trying to keep you all posted in hope of posssibly helping others. I really appreciate all of your comments. If my memory serves me correctly, pulling the trailer at 55 mph the OD is around 1500 rpm. BTW, I have never towed the trailer and used cruise control. I only use cruise when dead heading.
Hal aka green ram man

 

The alert code was P0440 Evaporative emmission control system malfunction. Boy you nailed it with this post. The engine light did in fact return this AM when I started the truck for the drive to work. Back to square one. Thanks for the heads up.

 

Gavult! That could be anything from solenoid, controls, to vac. lines. My experiences with the evap. system has given me a little more specific codes. Good luck tracing it. That job can be tedious and downright frustrating.
Wish I could offer some more help here, but it's just a matter of methodical searching and component and harness testing. On a semi-positive note, wouldn't be related to trans. problems.
WC

 

I'm a bit counfused. I didn't think that we needed a code reader with our trucks. On the new dash with the digital odometers, if you cycle your key three times from off to on, it lists the P-codes in the odomoeter display. Or are the p-codes different?

 

I apologize. When I told you the code was P0440, I was relying on my memory (questionable in itself). I went back to the trans shop, just around the corner from work, and asked about the code. Fortunately, they still had the work order sheet and the code is actually P0442 Evaporative emmission control system, small leak detected. As I stated in an earlier post, my truck was involved in an accident that required the replacement of the front fenders. Most of the vacuum do-dads are attached to the fender wells under the hood. I am suspecting that the removal/replacement of these hoses possibly broke the seal along with me plugging and unplugging the check valves. That's where I intend to start, right under the hood, at the obvious points where the lines had to be disconnected to repair the front end damage. The check valves appear to be functioning, although I have not used a vacuum gage on them. I just blew and sucked on the opposing nipples, and they function properly. I haven't had the present errorcode read yet, hopefully that will happen tomorrow. I suspect, like you said, it is the same code reappearing. Thanks for the help.
Hal aka green ram man

 

Perhaps it would behove me to read my owners manual. You are quite right. Three turns of the key and voila, P0442. I tried it right after I read your post this morning. As I go on my quest for this dastardly leak, is there something I can place around the nipples to seal the joint yet remain pliable, such as silicone or some other type of sealant. When I checkedthe check valve closest to the passenger fire wall it looked like a very thin layer of black sealant remained on one of the nipple ends. Obviously I would put the sealant below the nipple barb so as not to seal the inlet/outlet orifice on any joint. I have really appreciated all of your comments on this thread, and I feel as though I am on the right track. My biggest enemy is time to work on it.Jobs sure get in the way some times.

 

Auto parts stores sell vac port plugs/caps. Assorted sizes in one kit for about a couple of bucks. Bought some years ago...still use them. Always come in handy.
WC