I joined this forum because I am a Dodge truck, long time owner. I hoped to use this forum for some tech help.

I previously owned a 1980 two tone green Dodge Power Wagon short bed with 318 for 17 years. After 100K, I started having problems with the engine and body cancer had begun, from all the beach use. In 1998 I purchased a 2WD green Dodge Club Cab w/short bed. Really liked this truck, but missed my short wheel base Power Wagon. In 2001, I traded up to a 2wd green standard cab w/short bed. Really love this truck.

I recently began having some problems with my cruise control surging and a loss of vacuum when accelerating under a load. I experience this mostly when pullingmy 6x12 Wells Cargo enclosed trailer. Under a load, while the airconditioner is running, thedash vent doorts close and the air is diverted to the defrost, I believe. This morning, when I started up, en route to work my engine light on the dash failed to go off. I have done visual checks of air cleaner, vacuum lines and check valves for the HVAC/Cruise control vacuum circuit.

Would anybody possibly have experienced these same conditions? Unfortunately, this truck was involved in a collision about six months ago with pretty extensive damage to the right front. New front fenders, grille, frame parts, etc. had to be replaced. I'm wondering if this could be a trickle down from removal and reinstallationof various vacuum components during the repair process.

Thanks for having me in,
Green Ram Man

 

Sure its just in cruise contron? Mine use to surge in OD, change your fluid with +4. You could also try something like Slick 50 trans treatment. It stoped mine from doing it.

 

welcome to DF

 

first off, welcome to DF. The condition your decribing sounds like a very common problem with the vac lines. look under the battery tray (most common area) for a broken line. make sure all lines are connected. also, you said you did a visual inspection of the check valve. they are like 5 bucks, replace it. its a very common problem and an easy one to fix. if i had to guess, i would say it was that valve. good luck.

 

Welcome Green,
I'll let everybody else tell you how to break you truck. [sm=joke.gif]

 

[sm=icon_rofl.gif]

 

Thanks for the welcomes!! Sorry for the delay in response.My truck does drop out ofOD as well as surge in cruise. It increases about 100 RPM's when it surges , set at 65 mph. As I said before the worst case scenario is when I pull my trailer. Mostly trailer weight, I haul R/C model airplanes on weekends.While I was in the process of tracing vacuum lines and check valves, my engine warning light came on. I understand a 2001 1500 Ram fault codescannot be reset without connecting to a programmer. Is this correct? I'll check out my trans, as suggested. I hadit drained and flushed at 30K, I now have around 65K. I fear, around here, getting milked by the repair shop. There are some bad, expensive horror stories floating around. I don't feel like the vacuum check valves would cause anengine alert, and I could replace those andpossibly correct the HVAC vent issue, and possibly the cruise control. However I am inclined to think the trans issue may be the culprit there. Would you agree? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanking you all in advance.

P.S. Tothink I used to rebuild motors and do all the maintenance work on my vehicles back in the 60's and 70's. I feel like if you don't have the computer diagnostic tools, the owner is dead in the water any more and at the mercy of the repair shops. Not a happy feeling.

 

Welcome!
1st sign of fluid failure...slippage. I would do a flush not just a drain/refill. 60K+ You're due.
2- worst cruise control ever (my opinion). My '01 has never found a single speed since new.
3- need a code reader to find code and reset. Do you know what code you are getting? Faulty vac lines won't set a code unless it effects something else in the fuel delivery system.
These transmissions are not like in days gone by. They aren't vacuum controlled. I remember losing a vac line (Ford) and not being able to get out of 1st. Almost had the trans. down till I found the broken line. haha
You're somewhat correct about the diagnostic tools of today. But you don't need an expensive assortment. Some simple things like voltmeter, vac tester, and an under $100 code scanner (well under...seen 'em for 30-40 bucks). But, a real boon is a computer linked analyser. They go for under $300 some under $150. Best to hook up to a laptop, but desktop will do.If you're serious about this stuff and want to save repair shop money, they can pay for themselves the 1st time out.
Again, welcome!
WC

 

Computers alot of the time don't really tell you crap, they just point you in a general direction. You can go to Napa, AutoZone, advanced Auto, ect to get the codes read for free. Sometimes they won't tell you what the code means, if thats the case write it down and ask on here, we'll know.

As for surging 100RPM is thats the torque converter clutch locking and unlocking, its a rather common problem with a very simple solution. Replace your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), its on the drivers side of the throttle body and is help in with 2 simple Phillips screws. Unhook the electrical connector, take the 2 screwes out, align the TPS (it only goes in 1 way) and screw it back in and your good to go.

 

Wayne C,
Thanks for the info. I think you are right on the money when it comes to the mileage and the fluid failure. I tow a 6x12 Wells Cargo, single axle, enclosed trailer nearly every Sunday about 70 miles round trip. Speeds mostly are 50 to 65 mph. A lot of starting and stopping getting out of town with traffic lights, but pretty flat land here. Changing and flushing the trans certainly won't hurt, that's for sure.
Again thanks for the info.