If you're ever in a shop that has a Snap-on scanner or the dealership, you should have it checked. The fuel sync being off can cause performance issues. If its running like a raped ape now, maybe you couldget her running like asix legged dog after three legged bitch.

 

I could do that. It wouldn't hurt; however, I'd rather have my own scanner and the ability to tweak it myself

 

Downside is that a scanner that will do fuel sync will run you ~$600 used on ebay. Even then you have to hope you get the right keys/cables or you will be off spending more money. You can get a scanner that will tell you a whole lot for just under $100. I have toyed with the idea of buying a Snap-on scanner, but the way I figure it, with a buddy up the street who has one I could spend the $ elsewhere. I have a little scanner that will do pretty much everything aside from fuel sync and idle counts.

 

Not sure if this has anything to do with this : if not I apologize. I have a Snap-On scanner at work and when I hook it up to my truck and check the timing data it jumps all around up and down. Usually from about6 or 8 degrees all the way up to 18 or 20 degrees. It just keeps fluctuating constantly up and down. Is this normal or the sign of a problem ? Maybe a sloppy timing chain ?

 

This will tell you if you have the DF. look for the label on thr PCM on radiator support.
Hypertech, Superchips, B&G flash will override it.
I did the change and it was a BIG difference.

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001-index.htm#09_engine
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/c...ailability.pdf

 

It's normal for the timing to jump around at idle. The timing chain wouldn't have anything to do with it. The chain will throw your valve timing off if it is stretched. Ignition timing will be a function ofiat, map, ect etc. If you watch it will fluctuate with the idle rpms. 18 or 20 seems a bit high. Try watching it when you are under load at cruising rpm's andit should settle down.

 

Thanks - I will try it tomorrow.